I know this is likely not an option you’d consider, but am throwing it out there because I’ve had success many times with it: JB Weld or similar epoxy products. It does take some experience (I’ve had plenty), and maybe more than one shot at it, but most of the time it works for me. If the catch tabs on the back of the covers are worn or broken, I’d try reforming them with epoxy, especially one of the “plastic” versions of epoxy.
Admittedly, your catch tabs may be quite small and delicate, but if the surface surrounding them is roughened and the epoxy applied properly and with care, then cured correctly, it can be a cheap fix to keep the covers from falling off so easy.
But you have to plan your attack first because you can’t keep molding and forming epoxy once it starts to set up; it will undo everything. You have to decide which type of epoxy to use, regular or quickset. Each has its place according to the project. I would tend on yours to use quickset because regular would sag after you thought you were done “sculpting”, and throw off your fit.
The switch cap situation may call for a small amount added to make them more snug on the pins and be a piece of cake. Just sandpaper or file roughen a broad area around to give the epoxy a good footing into the plastic. If you do get sagging during the cure, you can always come back after it’s cured with a Dremel tool and reform it into a perfect fit over the pins.
I say this having not seen the back of the caps, and as someone who’s repaired dozens of plastic and metal devices ove many years. My cousin owned St. Helens Marina in Oregon decades ago, and used epoxy to repair broken outboard motor shafts. That’s how I got into using the stuff. But it took a lot of trial and error, and a few refixes, to get the technique down. It might be worth a shot or at least a thought. It certainly has solved many “part no longer made” or $$$$ issues for me.
Joel
