Headlight and directional not working together

[Michael Makowsky]

I have a 2001 Patriot Thunder. When I turn on the headlights the directional's and 4 ways don't. Lights off they work fine . Mike Makowsky ID Number 76996159 516 523 7776 

[Fred Brooks]

   Michael,
  Do you have a smart steering wheel?

[Michael Makowsky]

No. You can call me . 516-523-7776

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Micheal
The best wiring diagram I can find for the directional signal lights is in the 1996 Patriot wiring diagrams in coach assist library page #46
To reach coach assist click on the blue link at the top of the page and then on coach assist in the drop downs scroll down to located wiring diagrams .

The problem you are having could be one of several different faults .
Let's start with the basics.
1) check the large ignition solenoid zat the bottom of the large buss bars in the electrical bay under the drivers station
     You are looking for 12+ at both sides of the large terminals ( what your looking for here is a volt drop across the solenoid indicative of a bad solenoid)

2) with the headlights and turn signals turn on check for available voltage at the turn signal circuit breaker in the electrical bay below the driver station.
      ( Looking for battery voltage Of 12 + volts on both sides of the breaker)if no 12+ volts on load side you possibly have a bad breaker.

3) check for voltage at the turn signal flasher unit located in the electrical bay
     You should have 12+ volts on both sides if not the flasher unit is bad.

4) you will find the head lights and the turn signals likely share a common ground setup at the bulbs if the ground connection is bad the turn signals may be
     Seaking ground though the headlight circuit ( a back feed situation) and as they have a lighter load requirement may be satisfied through a bulb
      somewhere to a good ground or have enough ground potential to work but
      once the head lights are turned on that potential is gone replaced instead by 12+ volts and the turn signals won't work .
      In this case all the lights would be dimmer and not work effectively.

NOTE:
The original flashers in these coaches where a load based unit which used a bimetal spring type flasher it required a load to heat up the by metal spring to cause it to open the circuit momentarily if the load is removed the flasher won't flash or will flash at a much different rate.
The use of LED lights requires the flasher to be replaced with an electronic time based flasher which uses a capacitor timing unit.

Start with the top 3 and let us know what you find.

PS:  in your profile it is a good idea to add the year and Model and length of your coach as well as the engine size and even floor plan.
        This information can help others on the forum with similar coaches to  help you identify component locations and possible solutions.

Hope this helps
Eric

[Joel Ashley]

If memory serves, which it too often doesn’t, in 2006 when we got stuck traveling the freeway after dark up the hills between Salt Lake and Park City, my signals weren’t working right.  The freeway was busy and trucks were stumbling up the grade in the right lane.  Our 400hp short coach has plenty of hill power, but speeding cars in left lanes often left me trapped behind <40mph trucks.  So not being able to safely pass at times, emulating the big rigs on either end of us I’d hit the caution flashers. 

Much to my chagrin they wouldn’t stay on, and I think it affected the turn signals as well so I had to be extra careful changing lanes.  The rest of that trip we didn’t travel after dark.   Ultimately it turned out to be a bad flasher, (this on a brand new coach).  All worked fine after I replaced it, and I carry a spare now.  On our coach it’s readily accessed under the dash hatch in front of the driver.  As Eric alludes to, the headlights’ draw can affect related circuits that depend on a certain current to heat metals in a cycling format.  Even new flashers can go bad.

Joel

[Michael Makowsky]

Thanks Joel. I will install a new one today and i will let you know. Mike

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Micheal
If your going out to buy a new flasher unit you would be better off with an electronic time based unit as I mentioned above s they are not effected by add loads such as a toe car
 I believe the flasher you have is a two terminal unit as apposed to a three terminal which are wired differently however it's best to take the old one with you

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EP50

To test the rest of the system simply remove the flasher and install a jumper wire in its place .this will allow the lights to light when the turn signal switch is activated but they won't flash .
This allows you to see if all the  lights and turn signal switch are working correctly before replacing the flasher.

Eric

[Michael Makowsky]

Hi Eric. I did all the testing and all was good. Went to Napa and got the one you recommended and all works great including hooked up to the Jeep. It flashes normal and bright. Thanks Eric. This BAC Forum is great.   

[Michael Makowsky]

Thanks Joel. That was the problem. Mike