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Aqua-hot system leaking

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Eric Maclean Co-Admin:
Mike
In my coach the top or shelf on that center console was glued to the top of the console using silicone there was also a bracket and screw from under the dash into that top panel take out that screw and pull up on the top and the silicone will come loose ( it takes a pretty good pull) this will give you good access to that heater rad .when your done you just silicone it back in place.

Eric

Mike Sulley:
Gentlemen,  A little follow up so far.  Several of my pressure tests have been misleading.  Sometimes they appear to hold and other times not.  I guess it depends on where the fluid is moving arounin the system.  I have not been topping off the reservoir with boiler fluid because it is getting expensive.

Steve made the right call.  It was not the line that was leaking, but a slow drip at the hose fittings at the heat exchanger.  Found a couple loose hose clamps on the rubber right angle boots connecting the plastic hose to the exchanger.  As a note,  I did find a good selection of silicon hose 90's that could be trimmed to fit if required to replace the boots at our local industrial hose supplier.  I did use coast guard approved marine hoses.

So I have tightened the offending clamps, no easy thing,  and am now in the process of pressure testing to confirm pressure integrity.

I have replaced the Racor filter and replaced as many associated burner hoses as I can.  Unfortunately, I can't get access to the top of the diesel tank to replace that hose to the Racor filter.  So I have left it.  It's rock hard.  My problem now is that diesel is not gravity feeding into the Racor filter.  I have purchased a primer bulb to give it a try.  If that doesn't work, I will try to apply pressure to the  diesel tank.  Any and all ideas will be appreciated.

Respectfully,
Mike Sulley

Carl Boger:
Mike,

If you need to replace the fuel line going to the top of the tank you don't have to drop the tank all the way down.  On mine I drove all 6 tires up on ramps lifting the MH 4.5 inches and then put a  motorcycle jack under the tank, loosened the straps took off the fuel fill hoses and lowered the tank.  I then removed the front strap and tilted the tank down to where I could reach the fittings.

The tank doesn't have to move all that far.  Hopefully you won't need to replace the hose, but it is doable.

Steve Huber:
Mike,
Be sure your fuel tank is at least 1/4+ full. The feed line for the AH and geni is about 1/4 ways up the side of the tank.
Steve

Mike Sulley:
Hey Carl,  Thank you for the reply.  I do want to replace that hose ( not really.  But should).  So that sounds do-able.  Luckily for me.  My tank is clear full.  But I have the motorcycle jack and tools.   So will probably run the tank dry this summer and do it this fall.  I will have to build the ramps to raise the coach.

To update:  Typical of working on old equipment, it's two steps forward and one step back.  The marine primer bulb worked like a charm.  Placed it in the line below the filter down at the Aqua-hot manifold and was able to pull fluid from the diesel tank into and thru the filter.  Had to put my finger over the end of the primer bulb after I squeezed it, but before I released the squeeze.  Once I had fluid into the bulb, I removed the bulb from the line and replaced it onto the Aqua-hot manifold.  Attempted to catch the diesel in a cup.

I had to re-rig my little 25 psi pressure test manifold (i'm using an air compressor) because I had to use a smaller hose than the hose barb I had (I connected the manifold and "jury rigged it" by splitting the hose) and putting a hose clamp on it.  So today I had the correct size 5/16" hose and hose barb fitting.  As my luck would have it,  while twisting the hose to pull it off I pulled off the little fitting below the radiator cap to the overflow bottle.  So I get to re-attach it and solder it back on.  And not much space to work in.  But was able to pressure test the system and it looked promising.

Thanks for all the help.
Best wishes,
Mike Sulley

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