General Boards > Technical Support

New to me Marquis repair list

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Eric Maclean Co-Admin:
Hayden
The RM 7832 only uses the compressor to cool the small white corrigated rap heat exchanger that raps around the ice maker it should be wired to operate in conjunction with the ice maker so when the orange ice maker switch is turned on the compressor system runs as well to aid in the ice making .
It is a stand alone system the rest of the fridge and freeze is an ordinary absorption fridge.

If the ice maker has been removed you don't need to use the compressor.
I have an original 1997 RM7832 in my coach it is still running strong after 28 years keeps the fridge cool 36* with no problems.
Like all absorption fridges they are some what slow to respond to cabinet changes simply because they don't has circulation fans in side or out
Regardless of what absorption fridge you decide on I highly recommend installing an ARP fridge defend with the option fin fan control and a fan
In my coach I opted to use a couple of computer fans connected to the fridge defend unit.
Also if you run you fidge for months on end like we do you will eventually ( about a month or two) will find the fins in the back of the cabinet will build up ice this can be eliminated by installing an internal fin fan they make a huge difference in not only keeping the unit frost free but they continuously circulate air inside the fridge making the cooling more even and more efficient ( faster)
I've included a link to both the fridge defend and an internal fin fan below.

The fridge defend unit works by monitoring the absorption boil temp and if it gets to a preset temp it will activate the fin cooling fan/s
If the boiler temp continues to rise to an over temp condition the fridge defend unit will shut down the control power to the fridge allowing it to cool down
Before turning it back on .in this way it eliminate or at least limit the related over heat damage and possible fire.
The real damage we are talking about is caused usually by the fridge being run off level where the boiler ends up running dry when this happens even if the boiler isn't breached ( burnt through) there is internal damage done .this damage is caused when the zinc chromate rust inhibiting powder inside the absorption Tubes and boiler get hot enough to crystalize these crystals are the problem .
When normal operation resumes ( the ammonia solution returns to the boiler ) then the boiler starts to work normally until the crystals start to move up and out of the boiler when this happens the crystals are carried on and logged the small office at the entrance to the evaporator plugging it which stops the flow of ammonia solution from moving on and the cooling unit can no longer cool.
You may have hear the term BURPING a fridge what this refers to is removing the fridge and turning it upside down by rotating is through 360* it make the solution travel back up through the condenser and the evaporator in an attempt to flush out the crystals blocking this orfice,sometimes this work but often it's a short term fix as those crystals are still in the system and can return.


https://www.arprv.com/how-does-arp-protect-my-fridge.php

https://www.amazon.com/Magula-Refrigerator-Prevents-Temperature-Ventilation/dp/B0C5LTDLVN/ref=asc_df_B0C5LTDLVN?mcid=34c2273c8a88363a8b001bf930bbfbe1&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693366125642&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18272522304192134422&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026456&hvtargid=pla-2187815904375&psc=1

Hope this long winded reply helps
Eric

Gayden.Peel:

--- Quote from: Eric Maclean Co-Admin on January 22, 2025, 02:44:31 PM ---
--- End quote ---

Ok, you almost have me convinced to look into this a bit more. I misunderstood the compressor use, since in our scenario you have to turn on the disconnected ice maker to make the compressor come on and for the whole unit to cool. There is no way to get cooling without turning on the ice maker, again the ice maker is fully disconnected so the old ice maker wires now go to the compressor AND they must trigger the AC heater for the boiler. Gas works sometimes, but you also have to have the ice maker turned on for the igniter circuit to work. It's pretty butchered in there, but I have full schematics so I could build a new wire harness if needed. I might dig into it a bit more before I go pickup the other fridge. My only concern with the other unit is the install depth, from my measurements there looks to be plenty of space but I won't know if there is something weird until I pull this old one out. The RM1350 is typically around $6000, the one I found is new unsold registration is still an option for warranty for $2200. I was quoted $1200 to remove the old one and install the new one, which seemed "reasonable" . The replacement boiler unit was $1600 so almost half the cost IF I can get the rest of the circuit worked out, in addition the control over the temp does not work currently, it's just stuck in the center selection.

Eric Maclean Co-Admin:
Gayden
If the cooling unit works it's still viable.
I don't believe the ice maker switch should be in any connected to the absorption heating elements.
Those elements are controlled through the electronic control board on the back of the fridge
The control board and controls are all 12volt there is  a 120 volt a/c feed to the board which the board uses only to
Run the two boiler heating element.
The upper ( eye brow board ) inside above the doors is the remote switching for the control board .
The on off switch on the control board turns the control board on with 12 volts d/c
The auto or gas switch on the eye brow board tells the control board which mode to work in it's to be noted that when in auto the control board monitors the 120 volt a/c input if there is 120 volts present it will automatically switch to A/C mode if not it defaults to gas operation by pushing the gas button in the control board will stay on gas even if there is 120 Volts available.
When on on gas mode the controller will activate the igniter board and the gas valve to fire the boiler only if the thermistor inside the fridge requests cooling
Once the burner lights there is a thermal couple in the flame that creates a signal wired back to the control board which depending on input from the thermal couple either continues to hold the gàs valve open or closes it
The 120 volt compressor unit was only used on the RM 7732 and the 7832 with ice makers they where there only to help freeze the tray faster.
Your going to have to sort out the wiring with the service manuals wiring diagram.
I wonder if the previous owner has by passed the board and directly feed the boiler heating elements. This would make the fridge run constantly and freeze up ( no temperature control)
It may have been done to get around a defective board eyebrow or control who knows.
If it turns out to need a board don't replace it with the OEM board the dinosaur electronics boards are much cheaper more robust a better warranty and have the advantage of an adjustable thermistor trim pot to allow fine-tuning of the temp control on the eyebrow board.

Gayden.Peel:

--- Quote from: Carl Boger on January 22, 2025, 12:09:41 AM ---
1st if you take your windows out and take just the windows to suncoast the price will be cheaper.


--- End quote ---

So looks like if I'm going to go anywhere it'll be Suncoast, the RV Glass Solutions quote came back at almost $8000 !!! Thats just about double what Suncoast wanted. I will reach out to see what the discount is for just bringing the glass. Reinstalling and sealing the windows doesn't look to be that challenging.

Thanks again

Eric Maclean Co-Admin:
Gayden
The thermal pane window seals can be a diy job a big job but it's doable.
6 years ago I did all 10 windows in my coach and they looked great .
I used kit sold by Dave Root on the Internet at the time but I no longer see those kits offered
Instead there is this kit available or you can get what you need on Amazon.

https://diyrvsolution.com/buy-it-here#dc391b01-7057-4e34-b0af-23f321d05ca8

https://www.amazon.com/DIYRVSolution-Foggy-Window-Repair-691037313425/dp/B0D1P9Y5GB/ref=sr_1_8?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S2aZI7NhDznapXRhuyxZsG5seblx9-YSdY4PKrXdqdELjwsBlN2WiZfx-bmdD_I8xsR-MLvC9gFR8cYlyNkxDrMqIZL-E99am-etCr7NxlZ2mitS48ZKSiM8HQRQioifh1TbAYq1GNM69vKRi6OaFxJhe2ZXsPmHy4G_ua4QMw6qAy4C_gJs5TPlQvrB-TI_PGI4870-yMvbhxk475bFwPP-Jr1iykmyoJzXSLPz2KfulvFWsfLRThztkZyDC-RpsuMKKZJOytfkOPRqMV5VpvmLnnI9_0kLzadS38ju937a6LL1ON3Qq8CgwnBN4u2B6u8KILvq0ieGGKD6uCX6SblpUESkQdX0g5TymVVAZzDrD4CgZXaB8S7mAg7IGlh3pU31gQjEGvdaLeC-BS4nm1s3OI98sZQjOiStJan-b9fE2X9PytnYPuXeZ--SSNbk.YrB5rrmX1GfofhzCf7OW7N-2NBrTT-CbGi8FQQ0J0Gg&dib_tag=se&hvadid=604465744491&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=1026456&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=3379577802888038781&hvtargid=kwd-885231554773&hydadcr=18864_13375817&keywords=rv+fogged+window+repair+kit&qid=1737644412&sr=8-8


https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Urethane-Sikaflex-Primerless-Adhesive/dp/B073WKD2C9/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=3L3EIX40XJM7N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.F5zIQVfKmEQPz-bVJSLY8TNR0Imaf7RFX41XvwK2LQlI2BLcusnzVb8jKpL7JVvWgr5PEd2yiWdtRkrE_OhQ2WUbHn0Qq3MiFnqHN0Ji8xJTUsaaSgvXI7Ku9SRQfwIdvM4Z6L8PB7U1Nbr1u9y7CzdEsbPVSTb-JfZzD1r-vdypR8I9AcnTG3iXfEnvneSItzTvgWvj0J19EwOvq02hhvpioQXKZDcNTckwtH0gpwnNx-k4MPtM00i1goVgPji_mZ9HBv4eIWV1pvBfIeNe_jzmwJ_r3qbOeTOGCPliBuI.GwxymnJ1zfz3OdKGobP763sGCKLx7AqxxpUZDLiB3BI&dib_tag=se&keywords=urethane+glass+sealant&qid=1737644881&sprefix=eurethanee+glass+sealant+%2Caps%2C295&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1.


https://www.amazon.com/CRL-PR0360-Glass-Cleaner-19/dp/B0CVNH5KKY/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=21UQ1L0O4NRW1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZHjBXnirI2BfZ9BeyA27zb-_xft6KlY6iIdCbpxftv9CBO513p3MK4eqFzWZCBtJAsNwHmgXRR4Qhy46MjybvibZEEaOHX1p_4cq1SNt3toeEApyyJ7nHnpoUGVFnLfZ3byReKFA3Ig0YFJOZH6Z_p9xGSf6nRpyga93G3Hl1TXe_BVsT9JLhdfuBjzaQguIHre2YVVJ-lqMD_h8ONmGkFGozyyyq4N6mPvfSy6SrvHUjKp4yKw5L1Rn1NvTW_g3k7AmPu0CyalRCeVp4ww9ARRjyZ5xlTJVclU3R9TRteI.a9GbShAugNcWEpHB5UG4IM0fBlElRE7G7h4tVUGQlyE&dib_tag=se&keywords=industrial+glass+cleaner&qid=1737645027&sprefix=Industrial+glass%2Caps%2C366&sr=8-22-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-100-Pack-Single-Industrial-Scraper/dp/B0BFHB3CXP/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b%3Aamzn1.sym.b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b&crid=9EGRXAANDYFQ&cv_ct_cx=Razor%2Bblades&keywords=Razor%2Bblades&pd_rd_i=B0BFHB3CXP&pd_rd_r=d7870501-39c5-4a0e-ba6f-4ea29319c68a&pd_rd_w=mAliI&pd_rd_wg=TnUcJ&pf_rd_p=b4ac65ae-0048-4fbb-a310-b5c6291ff88b&pf_rd_r=HB0FN6DMNQBWFA4DD8FH&qid=1737645129&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=razor%2Bblades%2Caps%2C441&sr=1-3-2c727eeb-987f-452f-86bd-c2978cc9d8b9-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

To do the job you must
1) remove the complete window from the coach
2) dismantle the window to get the thermal panes out of their frames
3) separate the thermal pane sandwich by cutting the mastic and backer between the two glasses (be sure to index the glasses there is one that will be tinted)
4) thoroughly clean the glasses with a good grade glass cleaner but first use clean sharp razor blades to remove/ scrape the mastic from the glass to avoid scratching the glass
5) install the new glasses separator to one pane of glass approximately 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the edge by peeling the tape adhesive on one side of the separator
6) once the separator is in place on the glass you can now peel the exposed side tape on the separator and set the second glass onto it being sure to align it properly first as the tape gives you one shot at it.
7) push the two glasses together to make sure the separator has made full contact all the way around
8) using a caulking gun (preferably a powered on) injector new mastic into the  cavity between the glass filling from the separator to the edge of the glass
Make sure that there are no voids or bubbles as this is the actual seal.
Notes:
Before you begin you will need to know the thickness of the separator in your windows. Apparently the window manufacturers used two different ones
It should be either 3/16 or 1/4 "

Like I said before it's a big job but doable the hardest part is cutting out the old seal to get the glasses apart the rest is pretty straight forward
You will need strong hand and wrists to cut those seals
In the kit above it included silicone that should not be used to seal the glass the edge of the glass is sealed with a mastic urethane
This job is best done in a low humidity environment so that the traped air between the glasses doesn't have moisture to condensate later.

Eric

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