General Boards > Technical Support
Headlights not working??
Roger Milne:
--- Quote from: Steve Huber on October 16, 2025, 09:08:45 PM ---OK.There should be nothing except the dimmer switch between pin 30 of the headlight relay (R11) and VCB-11 or 12 depending on whether you have high or low beam selected. To make troubleshooting easier consider pulling F69 and jumpering from the cold side of the fuse to the pin 30 slot of R11. You should have a short between F69 and VCB-11 or 12 depending on dimmer switch position. The resistance to ground should be the same in either dimmer switch position as you will (should) be measuring the headlight bulb (LED) resistance only.
Steve
--- End quote ---
I’m out on the road for the next 4 days but will look at your idea when I get back. I’ll also later tonight when I get to my hotel PM you with some thoughts so as to not keep this post open to just back and forth convo.
Roger Milne:
Ok folks, between work schedule and this crazy webpage issue everyone is having, I can finally try and attach some pics to show where my problem is and try and figure out why I'm blowing dimmer fuse #69
So a quick synopsis, of what I have at the moment.
Removed wiring directly from light bar and relays and from what I can see, one splice in at the steering column, for what was a LO Beam power source. PO then spliced the Lo Beam from smart wheel to the Lo Beam on the connector plug at the headlight unit. There was a power source that he ran from the battery to power the relays and then came back into the dash and had a main power switch and a Hi & Lo beam switch that PO installed and then went back to light bar. No apparent splice into the Hi Beam circuit. So when I inadvertently removed what I was guessing was just a overkill for a light bar appears may have removed all the wiring for the Headlight Dim Mod'.
So the problem is I have no clue where the VCB 11 & 12 splice is in my wiring. I'm guessing the VCL 5 splice was the battery feed I still have out on the firewall, but it was disconnected at the Fuse adapter he had installed.
So my understanding is I should be able to just go back to normal by tying VCB 11 back together at the smart wheel splice BUT no clue where he spliced VCL 12.
So not knowing where VCL 12 spice is and connecting VCL 11, I blow fuse #69. If I disconnect the Lo Beam t the smart wheel splice I can have Hi Beam only, no Low beam and no blown dimmer fuse.
I have attached some pics with description, so hopefully this makes sense to someone.
Steve Huber:
Roger,
I suggest you break this problem down and focus on getting the system back to OEM status and then worry about the added wires etc. As I requested in my previous post, please take the following steps and report the results.
1. Did you pull F69 and jumper from the cold side of the fuse to the pin 30 slot of R11?
2. Did you have a short between F69 and VCB-11 with low beam selected on the dimmer switch?
3. If so, what was the resistance to ground with low beam selected on the dimmer switch?
4. Did you have a short between F69 and VCB-12 with high beam selected on the dimmer switch?
5. If so, what was the resistance to ground with high beam selected on the dimmer switch?
Once you have and provide the answers to the above you can focus on getting the 2 circuits to read identical. Strongly suggest you not cut or remove any more wires or components until you establish status of above.
Steve
Roger Milne:
--- Quote from: Steve Huber on October 21, 2025, 06:42:51 PM ---Roger,
I suggest you break this problem down and focus on getting the system back to OEM status and then worry about the added wires etc. As I requested in my previous post, please take the following steps and report the results.
1. Did you pull F69 and jumper from the cold side of the fuse to the pin 30 slot of R11?
2. Did you have a short between F69 and VCB-11 with low beam selected on the dimmer switch?
3. If so, what was the resistance to ground with low beam selected on the dimmer switch?
4. Did you have a short between F69 and VCB-12 with high beam selected on the dimmer switch?
5. If so, what was the resistance to ground with high beam selected on the dimmer switch?
Once you have and provide the answers to the above you can focus on getting the 2 circuits to read identical. Strongly suggest you not cut or remove any more wires or components until you establish status of above.
Steve
--- End quote ---
Thanks Steve,
yeah I'm back at the RV for a couple days and will attempt to do the troubleshooting you listed and I'll post results when I accomplish them.
I definitely won't be taking any more wires out until I can get back to OEM condition.
thanks for the inputs and will post once done.
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