Author Topic: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop  (Read 15026 times)

Edward Buker

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #15 on: April 05, 2012, 02:13:52 AM »
Bill,

You are right, there is no GFCI cicuitry at the power post. You use these type outlets at point of use where you might have body contact with a ground source like a sink or where you might be using a faulty power tool like in the bay with grounded metal frame all around. You really do not need to feed the motorhome with a GFCI given the point of uses in the motorhome are covered by GFCI. It is likely that there is enough electronics, transfer switch circuitry, and other things being fed by the main power feed that a single 20 amp GFCI sees an inbalance in the load with a stray 4 to 5 milliamps going to ground somewhere momentarily which may be quite normal.

Les,
 If the wet environment one still pops feeding the RV but you have not disabled any of the point of use ones in the motorhome then I would not worry about it. My suspicion is that the original one that you used to feed the RV probably was defective and not working if the wet environment version does not work. If for some reason you have replaced one of the point of use GFCIs in the RV with a non GFCI because it always tripped and you now have the same situation with the coach feed then maybe you could have some legitimate electrical fault that needs to be understood. Hope this helps.

Later Ed
« Last Edit: April 05, 2012, 05:24:11 AM by 910 »

Richard And Babs Ames

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2012, 01:46:20 PM »
Sometimes the adaptors go bad. Have you tried a different one?

LarryNCarolynShirk

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2012, 08:09:46 PM »
You may want to try changing the 50 to 30 and/or 30 to 20 adapter.  There have been some issues with them.

I have seen several electrical pedestals with ground fault circuits on the 15/20 amp outlets.

Larry

Joel Ashley

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #18 on: April 05, 2012, 10:22:32 PM »
Richard and Larry are quite right, Les.  I've had adapters go bad myself, and especially if they are outside.  Check it and all cord plugs for burn marks or melting.

That said, your ultimate fix would be to add a dedicated 30 amp RV outlet, on its own circuit and breaker, to plug into, which is what I did.  You could go 50A, but you don't need it for storage;  you don't need 30A either, but it's nice if you ever need to test an A/C, heater, etc.

Joel
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
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Les Marzec

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2012, 01:41:24 AM »
I have changed all of the adapters except for the 50A power cord on the coach.  I plugged the coach into a non GFCI circuit and I dont seem to have a problem.  It is suppose to snow tonight so probably on Sunday I will take a look at the transfer switch for dust etc.  

When I had the shop built a few years ago, I had them put in a 30A circuit, but they put a 50A plug on it.  Cant remember why they did that.  SInce I have been unable to find a male 50A to female 30A adapter, looks like I will have to rewire the circuit to 30A and put a 30A socket in.

Has anybody seen a 50 to 30 amp adapter?

Thanks for all of the suggestions and help. I really appreciate it.

Keith Oliver

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #20 on: April 06, 2012, 02:07:29 AM »
I just looked under the lid at the post, and found GFCIs on the 20 amp plugs, but not on the 30 or 50.  Who ever uses 20 when there is 30 and 50 available?

LarryNCarolynShirk

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #21 on: April 06, 2012, 06:35:59 AM »
Both 30 to 50 and 50 to 30 adapters are available.

Larry

Richard And Babs Ames

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2012, 01:36:50 PM »
You can buy one through the Amazon Radio Bar on the the BAC home page or any RV supply store like Camping World.

Joel Ashley

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #23 on: April 06, 2012, 07:53:06 PM »
Now I'm confused, Les.  You have been plugged into a 20 amp circuit, have checked your adapters, but can't find where to buy a 50 to 30 amp adapter?  How are you getting your 50 amp cord down to a 15/20 amp outlet without a 50/30 adapter?  Or are you saying you are suspicious of the one you already have (even though you've checked it) and want to try a new one?  As Richard said, there are ready sources for them, including small box and big box hardware stores everywhere.  Admittedly, I have been in a couple hardware stores over the years that didn't have one in stock.

One problem could be voltage drop over too long of a cord arrangement, esp. if the first cord out of the outlet is a standard orange one designed for 15 amps.  That's part of what screwed my 15/20 to 30 amp adapter a few years ago, while the coach was stored, and caused some wierd cycling of the rig's transfer switch.  I splurged on a heavier duty outdoor 3 wire 12 guage cord (yellow), and stopped using orange 14-16 guage cords, even though storage never draws much current.  If you want to stick with the 20 amp outlet, try a 15 or 25 ft. 12 guage cord, in case voltage drop is causing the transfer switch to trip that circuit's GFCI.

I don't see why you don't just plug the coach cord into the 50 amp outlet you say the electricians wired a 30 amp circuit to in your shop.  It won't have 2 120v. legs like a 50, but should safely supply 30 amps. They may have used a 50 amp outlet so you could plug a 50 amp RV cord directly in without adapting.  If the cord isn't long enough, I'd switch the outlet to the 30 amp the breaker and wire were designed for, and use 25 ft. of 30 amp cord and keep a 30-50 adapter on its female end;  if you aren't already, you should be carrying that arrangement with you in the coach anyway - it can be useful in some camping situations.

Keith, not all campers use 30 or 50 amp systems.  If tenters are in the site, alone or accompanying a big rig, they can use a 15/20 outlet.  And so can park personnel when doing site maintenance with power tools and such.  Because of the outdoor potentially wet locations, code requires the 15/20s be exclusively Ground Fault Circuit Interupter outlets.  As Ed said, the 30/50 outlets are not "terminal" circuits, just feeders that supply smaller circuits downstream in the coach;  those coach circuits are "terminal" or end-use/point-of-use circuits, and already have GFCIs protecting them (or should have).

Joel

« Last Edit: April 06, 2012, 08:03:56 PM by 77 »
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

Wayne Tull

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #24 on: April 07, 2012, 02:31:31 AM »
I found this interesting since until this post I have thought very little about GFI.

http://personal.cha.bellsouth.net/j/o/johngd/files/rv/gfi.pdf

Les Marzec

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Re: Transfer switch blows fuses in shop
« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2012, 03:11:49 AM »
Very interesting article. I currently have the coach plugged into a non GFCI circuit and all appears to be fine.  I guess I will just have to use this same circuit all of the time.

I still wonder what changed to cause the problem now and not for the last two years.  If there is a problem, I would like to find it now rather then when I am 200 miles from a service facility. Sometimes I think too hard, and maybe try to find the cause of an issue that maybe isn't there.

Thanks to everybody for the help and input.  I did get some ideas that I did not think of so it was very very helpful.

Now I think I will rewire that 50A circuit to a 30A and use that to plug into.

Joel

As to your thread.  I have always used a yellow 20A cord with adapters to the 50A coach cord.  I did change the adapters and tried different combinations and still had the problem.  Since you had a similar problem a couple years ago, it is best to change the 50A circuit and not even use the 20A.  Remember the KISS solution.  Keep It Simple Stupid, which I did not. Thanks