Fridge Ice Maker water line brittle

[Bryan Quinn]

Hello all,

I have a 1998 Beaver Contessa with an ice maker in the freezer section of the refridgerator.  The water supply line broke in a spot that is accessible from the outside service door.  I thought I could just splice in a new piece, but the line is so brittle it just crumbles when I try to make a clean cut.  My question is, do I have to remove the refridgerator from the motorhome to replace this line?  The bottom of the line is very accessible, but not the top of the line where it enters into the freezer compartment at the top of the refridgerator.  

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bryan

[Mike Collins]

We had the same problem. BCS had to set the refrigerator on the kitchen floor, replace the line, and put the refrigerator back into its proper place. (We had to unload the refrigerator first.)

[LEAH DRAPER]

My ice maker line is also deteriorating and needs replacing.  My question is:  Does this line have to be replaced with the same crappy plastic OR can it be replaced with a better material.  If so what?

[barbhalsell]

Probably soft copper same as your house.

[Karl Welhart]

I would second the soft copper line instead of the plastic.  Just replaced the plastic supply line (before the ice maker solenoid) with soft copper because it became so brittle.  The fridge is only two years old, so not ready to replace the line after the ice maker solenoid.

[Ron Gettig]

Lowes sells a flexable braded line for ice makers

[Bryan Quinn]

Thanks for your comments all.  So, it sounds like I'll have to remove the fridge.    Does anyone know how to go about such a project?  Any advice / instructions???  Thanks.

Bryan

[Karl Welhart]

Removing your frig is not as big a problem as you may think.  All doors need to come off, then remove the trim pieces that cover the screws on the mounting flanges.  Remove all the screws from around the flange (12-15).  Now for the outside stuff.  Disconnect the 110 volt AC power supply (should be two, one for the frig and one for the ice maker).  Disconnect the 12 volt power leads (two spade connectors, normally red and white in color).  Disconnect the gas line with two wrenches, one for the flare nut and one to backup on the gas valve union.  

Then unscrew the hold down screws (2-3) in the base of the frig on the outside floor ledge.  Push on the back of the frig and make sure it is loose enough to move a couple of inches towards the inside of the coach.  Now with two people, pull the frig out and place it on a good strong stool.  Replace the ice maker line, clean all the coils and replace the fans (if so equiped).  Check the vent in the roof for any foreign objects, Clean the chimney flu (per maintenance manual) and put the unit back in place.

[Gerald Farris]

Leah,
You can use copper tubing to replace the line for your icemaker. Although copper will not deteriorate, it is harder to work with and it is prone to cracking from metal fatigue if it is allowed to flex excessively from vibration. It will also allow the water inside it to freeze faster than a plastic line if exposed to cold weather because it transfers heat more efficiently.

Gerald

[LEAH DRAPER]

GERALD,

Thanks for your insight, I presume the use of plastic to resist movement is why that is used.  I was wondering if using the plastic, to tolerate movement and then wrapping it with an insulating tape would help prevent the heat from so much deterioation (sp).  What do you think?  Something like the tape used for insulating water lines, not the styrofoam stuff.
Leah

[Edward Buker]

Because this is a pain in the butt job plus the line could go while you are not at the coach, it would be best to find a drinking water safe higher quality material hose that can tolerate temperature. Silicone hoses with polyester mesh are ideal for that purpose. The Silbrade hose in the link would be an ideal solution. Working pressure in the 160lb + range, temp spec in the -80 to +350 range, and drinking water safe. There are some recommended fittings and clamps that you would need to consider adapting or perhaps what is currently used would work. Silicone tubing is expensive but if you are paying to have this done, the material cost is always a good investment. I have replaced my Aquahot overflow tank tube for about $12 with non mesh silicone and do not even inspect it anymore....it will last longer than I will.

The price for 1/4 inch Silbrade is $6.00 per foot, 3/8 is $7.24 at one website that I checked.

http://www.newageindustries.com/downloads/catalogs/NewAge_Silicone_Catalog.pdf

Later Ed

[Gerald Farris]

Leah,
The plastic tubing (polyethylene or braided nylon with PVC) is used to save labor and material cost in assembly, and not for longevity. The problem with insulation tape is that the adhesive in the tape will deteriorate the plastic line. The same problem also exist with other types of insulation, but not all of them.

I was not trying to tell you not to use copper, but I was trying to point out a few things that you should be conscious of when installing it. Copper will work very well if it is installed carefully and properly. Also if you spend a lot of time in cold climates, you may need to add some insulation to the copper line to prevent freezing problems.

Gerald  

[Edward Buker]

I came from VT and I'm not a fan of copper where temperatures can remain below 32 degrees. Copper +water +freezing=  Nightmare. I have too much experience with this scenario. If I was in a very hot climate and there would be no freezing I would favor copper over the current plastics being used.

If copper is used and it freezes it will likely spit or as a minimum the copper tube will be weakened due to thinning from being expanded. If I was full timing and avoiding cold weather for the most part, I would consider copper. This is a tough application that sees temperature excursions that can range from zero to maybe 130 degrees F or higher. The current plastic fails due to heat cycles and plasticizer aging and copper fails due to freezing and fatigue.

 If I'm not using ice, the water in that line will sit for days so insulation is of limited value if the ambient is cold enough to keep the frig vented area below 32F for extended periods of time. Sooner or later it will freeze. If you truely can avoid cold climates, except on rare occasion, and you are running the frig which produces periods of heating then copper is a viable alternative but if I could I would be using braided silicone tubing and just forget about this ever being an issue.

Later Ed

[Bryan Quinn]

Thanks all for your input/help/suggestions.  Karl, I really appreciate the directions on fridge removal!!!  Wish me luck.

Bryan

[Dick Simonis]

One thought regarding the plastic though is that it did last you for 14 years and may be another 14 before you need to do the job again.  If it's the same stuff we have, it's a tubing that is used in high end industrial equipment for years and is quite good for high pressures and high temps.  I 'm really not certain you can improve on it all that much.

It should be something like this:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-polyethylene-tubing/=i7t59j

Whatever you use should be for potable water and routed clear of the heatet components.