Water utility bay cover removal

[Adam Hicklin]

On my last trip I discovered that I had a drain leak from the kitchen sink.  Upon further investigation, I found the ABS drain pipe for the sink had came out of the fitting going in to the gray tank.  The tank has a 1 1/2 inch rubber fitting on the top.  The drain pipe is held in the fitting by a hose clamp.  The problem is that during construction, the drain pipe was set at an angle off verticle and forced in to the fitting, being held in by the pressure of the clamp.  Could have easily been made to fit properly at the factory, but, it's my problem now.

 Any way, I will have to remove the panel to the water utility bay.  A couple weeks ago I learned I could remove the perimeter screws and pull the panel forward a few inches without removing the whole thing, but this time I will need to remove the whole thing to allow me to cut the drain pipe and re-set it.  Any tricks to removing the entire panel?  It intimidates me some because of all the water connections that are going to have to be undone.  I know the water manifolds can stay intact.  I may be chasing leaks for years to come.  

Thanks in advance.  

[Edward Buker]

The water manifolds are the biggest issue. They use metal strapping around the manifold that are held by screws and nuts so you have to tilt enough to get your hand back there and hold the nuts to remove them. Pull the knobs on the valves straight out and unscrew the panel perimeter screws. You can use a mirror to peek behind and start removing the next thing on the backside that keeps you from pulling further. I did two things when I had mine apart to make this pain in the ass easier the next time. I marked with a Sharpie what piping had to be removed and I made a wood and aluminum strap fixture that holds the valve manifold to the panel so that 4 sheet metal screws from the frontside now releases that manifold. The metal strap nuts that are used on the backside are near impossible to deal with given the piping flex. If you have enough time do yourself those favors. If you do a search I posted photos of the manifold holders in a prior post. Lowes has a nice compact lighted mirror on a handle using Leds which helps with these kinds of projects. May the force be with you....

Later Ed

[Mike.Way]

Secondary issue may be the ultimately cheap faucet.  Once I detached it, it would no longer seal properly.  This winter it froze and I have removed it completely.  My plan, in the near future is to cut the stainless up the middle and make the part covering the plumbing easily removable. That will ease access to the power valves and drain pulls if needed.

Good Luck,
Mike

[LarryNCarolynShirk]

On my coach, removing the paper towel holder reveals an access opening large enough for your hand to go through.  That may help you.

Larry

[Adam Hicklin]

Thanks for the tips.  I started by taking the paper towel holder off.  That helped me pin point the leak.  I then tried removing the perimeter screws and pulling the panel forward as much as i could.  That allowed me enough room to see that I needed to remove the whole thing to really have enough room to get in there and make the fix.  Of coarse the pipe I need to get to is buried behind all the other stuff.  it couldn't have been one of the pipes that are right up front!  I'll be taking this on tomorrow, so if anyone has any more tips, I'd appreciate it.

[Tom and Pam Brown]

You can remove the panel without removing the manifolds.  There are 4 lines if my memory serves that will release the panel.
Be sure to remove the switches for the the dump valves if you intend to remove completely.

When reinstalling the panel make sure you insert the low point drain tubes through the floor panel so they do not drain I to the bay

[Adam Hicklin]

Thanks Tom. Good tips.

[Edward Buker]

Adam,

I did not have the same luck as Tom did regarding being able to undo water connections. My panel did not have enough plumbing hose slack to be able to lean it out enough to be able to disconnect enough hose fittings where the manifold can be left on the panel. I found it much easier to release the manifold from the panel. I hope you get lucky like Tom did.

 I think the hoses that go to the back of the faucet have just some flat washer seals and I would try and replace those given they get stiff with age and tend to leak. They are probably the most problematic leak prone connection on the panel if I remember right. Any RV dealer should have the seals that are used for fittings on the plastic manifold. I replaced any that I pulled apart given they are inexpensive and easy to replace. Those type seals seem to be a good system and not problematic.

Later Ed