Electrical problem... of my own making, I think

[Dave Cunningham]

Hey David, glad to hear you are on the road to recovery, what a nightmare! the one thing I've learned from reading this thread is , be really , really careful not to reverse the polarity of the batteries.

good luck in correcting the rest of the small issues

Dave

[Edward Buker]

David,

This is good information for the rest of us. Sure wish there was an electrical page that people could post the location and function to, when they find fuses and breakers in odd places that work certain functions.

As far as the radio and CB many of those radio harnesses that get connected have inline fuses built in so you may want to get to the back of the radio and follow it back or if it is bundled cut the tie wrap and see if there is an obscure fuse holder in the bundle. Sometimes in an install they will cut the wire back and remove the fuse holder and rely on a remote fuse holder but most times not. Hopefully it just might be that simple.

So happy that things are coming along and it seems to be far less of an expense disaster than it could have been. Hope the last pieces of the puzzle fall into place for you.

Later Ed

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

David,
Glad to hear you are back to normal (almost). Real learning experience for all of us. It's surprising how much is left off the wiring docs.
Steve

[David T. Richelderfer]

I finally have everything done... I think.  This was a long, learning month.  In the end, to repair all the problems was not as expensive as I feared... actually, not even close to what I feared:

1. One ANL 200 amp blade fuse in the battery bay behind the BIRD and Big Boy access door - $10
2. One mini auto fuse in the generator - 50c
3. One auto fuse in the transmission module under the transmission keypad - 50c
4. Two auto fuses in the air leveling module in the front electrical bay - 50c each
5. One rectifier/diode on the ignition solenoid in the front electrical bay - $1
6. One mini auto fuse on main power going to the Kenwood behind the pilot's dashboard - 50c
7. Two mini auto fuses going to the Kenwood brain box behind the entry door handrail behind the co-pilot's dash - $1
8. One glass Buss fuse for the Cobra CB behind the pilot's dashboard - $1
9. A couple friends helping me one afternoon - paid one $50... had to force him to take it!
10. Stereo shop technician found the two blown fuses near the Kenwood brain box and one blown fuse for the Cobra CB - $50
11. Probably 75 miles of running around getting fuses - $20 fuel
12. Probably 60 hours of time looking, pondering, and talking on the phone asking for tips on where to look next.
13. And today my tank levels wouldn't report, so phoned Silverleaf in Albany... was told to find their TM-102 Silverleaf Coach Management Module (a small black box) to check its lights... ended up unplugging the main power plug from the box to reset it... now works fine.   By the way, the TM-102 was found in the front electrical bay, not in the tank bay by the several Aladdin black boxes.

Soooo... what's that cost in cash?  $135.  But we had our wings clipped for a month.  Just so you know, we are able to fly again, and fly we will within two weeks.

[David T. Richelderfer]

Oh... and in this past month I had all the fluids/filters changed - engine, transmission, and generator; chassis lube; had to replace the alternator; replaced the serpentine belt; had the "30-point inspection"; had to replace a cracked spin-on fuel filter housing;... that's about it.  $2,200.  About half labor and half materials.  $103 per hour.

[Edward Buker]

David,

So happy that you are back together. It would seem that most of the electronic items like the Kenwood and Cobra have protection diodes built in that conduct in the reverse direction and pass enough current to blow the fast acting fuses before the protection diodes fail. If you had really been able to bias the internal circuits with a 12V reverse polarity you would have fried a lot of semiconductors. You are a very lucky man indeed. Compliments to you and the techs for finding all those fuses. Sounds like many were not obvious. Did the reverse polarity take the alternator diode packs out and that was why it had to be changed?

Enjoy your next trip, you have earned it.

Later Ed

[David T. Richelderfer]

Regarding the alternator:  I figured there is a reason the chassis batteries were dead.  I boondocked the prior weekend in Heppner three days while playing in its annual Men's Golf Tournament and those batteries acted fine when I departed Heppner on Sunday.  At home on Monday through Wednesday the Marquis was plugged in, so the batteries should have been charged.  But on Wednesday morning about 10 am the chassis batteries were dead enough to not turn over the engine.  I think the alternator had been dysfunctional for weeks, and the batteries had been kept barely alive by intermittent shore and generator power.

Also, in this past month I learned that using a magnet on the retrofit device on the back of the Norcold fridge DOES INDEED reset it.  The fridge worked fine after the battery changing debacle, but a week later, after flipping switches trying to test equipment, that fridge stopped working.  On the back through the outside access panel there is a small box about the size of a pack of cigarettes - the retrofit device - that has an overly sensitive heat sensor.  When it kicks out the fridge will not operate and the device shows a solid red light.  Reading on here, and/or in the FMCA forum, I learned that you turn off the power to the fridge - both 12v and 120v - and run a strong magnet around the sides of the device.  When the light goes out the device is reset.  Don't ask me how the red light stays on when both the 12v and 120v power switches are off at the main panels.