Velvac Mirror

[Bob Jae]

I headed out for a weekend of camping today and could not adjust my top mirror.  No matter which position the mirror select switch is in the convex mirror adjusts, I can not get the flat mirror to move.  I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue and solved it.  Looking at the coach wiring the upper mirros should adjust when there is no 12V supplied to the Velvac brain by the select switch.  I do not see a brain in the Velvac book.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank You

[Stan Simpson]

Bob,

On our Monterey, there is a toggle switch on the console below the Allison trans panel that changes the adjustment from the top mirror to the bottom.

I believe when its toggles forward, its the top, and when toggled backward, its the bottom convex mirror. It works for either side, depending what you have selected on the mirror adjustment toggle.

Stan

[Joel Ashley]

This may not be your issue, but seems like I had a similar issue some years back, though forgive my dim recollection - the problem was very short-lived.  It presumes though that you've set the selector for the top mirror as Stan mentions, and it still doesn't respond.

I think I discovered the physical position of the mirror in the frame was off so far to one extreme or the other that the drive mechanism wasn't working right.  I think I just had to find the happy relationship between mirror and shell that allowed a useable range of motion.  Unfortunately, loosening shell-positioning bolts is no easy task.

Wish I could recall more, but you might have someone listen outside at the mirror to see if they hear the mechanism when you hit the correct switch selection.  At least you'd know if the motor was getting power up there.  I think I ultimately hand-adjusted things until the mechanism worked again.  The wires and such are quite exposed within the shell behind the mirrors when they are turned far, so perhaps something obvious can be spotted with a small flashlight.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

Yes we have the switch that selects the top flat mirror or the convex mirror.  No matter which position this mirror select switch is in the convex mirror adjusts it is not switching to the top mirror.  It always has worked the right way until this morning.

The wiring diagram shows a velac brain box but I have not found that yet.

I will try to hear if maybe both motors are trying to run.

[Dennis Crawford]

Bob,

You might want to start with the mirror selection switch. The switch on my 2005 Montery went bad annd no matter what position it was in it only would let me adjust the lower mirrors.

Dennis

[Bob Jae]

Thanks Dennis that is exactly my problem so I will give that a try after our visit to the Alpaca Farm.

Does that switch just pull up and out.

[Joel Ashley]

I was going to get back to you yesterday but got sidelined after checking our Monterey - I don't see evidence of the "brain" under the dash access or in the electrical bay, so I'd next pop the upholstered buttons off the side of the driver's shifter panel box, then unscrew and remove one or both of the panels to get a look, given that is where the two mirror control switches are, and would be the shortest wiring run to any brain.  The driver's seat is probably gonna be a pain in the way.

I also was going to mention yesterday, like Dennis proposes, that your symptom seems likely switch related, and I'd check it (the rocker switch) with a meter first and see if a wire is loose there;  it could be either the red or green wire that's loose, or the switch is bad internally like Dennis'.  You may have to remove the perimeter screws and lift up the whole shifter panel to access the wires, if you can't get at them via the side panel ports.  Others here have done one or the other or both when one of the switches or the air-leveling control goes awry, so it's good to know how to get in there and what all it contains.  After fruitless looking under the dash and elsewhere when our coach was new, I finally found the CB antenna cable coiled up in there.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

Just an update.  I tore into the side console and got the switch out and checked it out. I was hoping it was bad but its good.  I check both wires coming from the controller and both had 12 volts on them.  Only the green wire should have had voltage.  Now to find the Velvac controller.  I finally found it in the lower right corner of the front run bay.  I disconnected it and still have 12 volts on the both leads.  I think the controller is bad.

I called Valvic and they had it in stock.  It was not on their price list so they would have to call me back.  I called Monaco Parts, $260 bucks and a 2 week wait they had to order it.  On the way to dinner Valvac called back and told me 80 some dollars and it will ship Monday.  Its on order so once I get it I will let you know the results.

Thanks for the help and the encouragement.

[Joel Ashley]

I now see in small print on my wiring diagram that it says the controller is in the electrical bay, though I didn't spot it there.  I assume that is what you mean by front run bay.  On second look I did find the controller mounted low right on the melamine panel, as you indicate, albeit totally obscured behind several hard-bundled wire looms.  

I show 5 wires from the controller, a black feed from the #5 breaker, a green ground on the left side with the incoming hot black feed, then 3 on the right, one unused black, and a battery green with a convex mirror select red that both enter the switch you checked.   Apparently the upper mirror gets power automatically unless one selects for the convex mirror, then the red wire should be active too - but I would expect the red at 0 volts when switched for the upper mirror.

It is disconcerting to realize that the controller module is at floor level in the electrical bay, given water instrusion is a problem in mine, and the bay becomes a lake for me all winter, despite continual efforts to resolve the problem.  I may have to see if there's enough slack, after cutting a slough of wire loom strapping, to remount the device a couple inches higher on the melamine panel.  Thanks for alerting me to its precise location, Bob.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

Joel
When I removed the rusted mounting screws the back and bottom of the controller was all wet.  I think the screws may have leaked for years as the carpet was dry.  The module is potted and all the wires come out the bottom I can only guess it got wet inside.  My plan is to clean and seal the screw holes and then tie wrap the new module to the wire bundles up off the floor.  If the new module cures the problems I will try to open the module and see whats inside.  I was an electronics tech for 40 years and want to see what failed.  How ever it may be full of potting compound.  I will post what I find.

Here is a picture of the module

[Joel Ashley]

Good job sleuthing Bob!  I appreciate your efforts since I may also have to run that marathon.  To my notion, nothing in that bay should be mounted low.  That Smart Wheel controller is in harm's way as well, as your photo shows.  My leak, as far as I've been able to determine, is coming from the ceiling, likely via the windshield seal.  So be aware the wet screws may indicate only one possible intrusion;  this time of year my bay carpet is dry too.  After a winter gullywasher it's an inch deep lake.

On Ed Buker's suggestion, I used Corrosion-X on all the exposed metal in that compartment, though obviously I couldn't see them all if I missed the Velvac controller.  The large black cylindrical multi-pin connectors can have pin corrosion inside, so I touched their pins up with bulb grease as a precaution too;  in the process I did find two pins with mild green stuff starting - easily cleaned and greased.  With all the 12 volt chassis components that route through this bay, it should get more preventive attention than most owners give it.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

Good news.  The new mirror controller arrived today and ten minutes later the mirrors are all adjusting as designed again.  In talking to Velvac the controller is actually for a triple glass mirror.  They use two switches for double class mirrors.  This is a non-standard use of the controller, but it works.  I did seal up the screw holes as water was coming in around the screws.  I tie wrapped the module to a wire bundle up off the floor of the compartment which also raised the connectors up off the floor.  I will attach photos that show the part numbers.  It was just plug and play, 5 connectors.  Cost with shipping was $96.31 shipping was 15 direct from Velvac.