close out problem

[Edward Buker]

Keith,

With my battery switches on, ignition off, slide in the normal retract condition, I can sense no heat by touch and the voltage across the positive and ground terminal is 0V.  My closeout stays retracted. Not sure why we see a difference here. I think the next step for you is to trace the plus wire to see where it goes. Also photo the hose works and electrical/pneumatic components in the top feed hose leading to the solenoid valve. We can see if they are the same. It may be that a relay is supposed to drop power and that the air feed hose has a solenoid valve shut off, not sure....

Later Ed

[Gerald Farris]

Keith,
It sounds like your steep cover is operating normally, but in reverse. The solenoid that gets hot because it is powered when your step is open, it operates the same way on my coach when the step is closed. So it seems to me that the air lines on your control are reversed from where they should be, because with no power the steep cover should be open, and therefore no heat or drain when setting still either at a camp site or in storage.

Gerald  

[Keith Moffett]

Gerald and Ed
I believe the air line on top is the supply line.  I guess Ed is rigt about the other two though.  The silver valve on the bottom left regulates the speed of the retracting.  The one on the right controls the speed of the extending.  Nothing to do with the air horn like I had thought.

Gerald -  Those two bottom air lines on yours do they cross?  On mine, the one comming from the left (by the bay door) goes to the left hole and te one from the rear of the compartment or (right) goet to the right hole.
If yours cross each other it might indicate you are right in reversing the lines.

Keith

[Gerald Farris]

Keith,
The lines on my coach do not cross, but that makes no difference because you do not how they are hooker to the cylinder at the step cover. Swap the lines and see if that cures your heat and battery drain problem.

Gerald

[Edward Buker]

Keith,

I think Gerald is likely right here. Good one Gerald,..... I was thinking it was possibly a relay that might have been stuck on but that would not explain why it still works and reverses.

If you enable the other position, slide out extended, see if you get 0V between the hot lead and ground. If so reverse the hoses which should drive the cylinder the other way and you should have retract with no voltage on the valve. To get the switches to have the label right you may have to reposition some wires on the switch. This may have been put together wrong at the factory.

Certainly this is a good explanation as to why the valve is hot all the time while the coach is shut down.

Later Ed

[Keith Moffett]

Gerald and Ed
I believe the air line on top is the supply line.  I guess Ed is rigt about the other two though.  The silver valve on the bottom left regulates the speed of the retracting.  The one on the right controls the speed of the extending.  Nothing to do with the air horn like I had thought.

Gerald -  Those two bottom air lines on yours do they cross?  On mine, the one comming from the left (by the bay door) goes to the left hole and te one from the rear of the compartment or (right) goet to the right hole.
If yours cross each other it might indicate you are right in reversing the lines.

Keith

[Keith Moffett]

On the back of the air manifold valve body s a diagram for the valving.  I am working on the assumption that the old unit is the same as the new.

The air input on top being in the middle hole means that the rear port on the bottom is straight through and the front port is triggered by the selenoid.  The way mine is set up this means that the 'extend' air line is always on and the retract is triggered by the selenoid.

This may add to what Gerald has said.  Regardless all this info should be out there for BAC and beyond.

More tomorrow
Keith

[Keith Moffett]

Partial solution
It turns out that the air supply line must be in the center hole on top.  The option was the first hole which the diagram showed ought to work opposite to the center hole but the selenoid doesnt function at all this way so the close out doesnt move.
After returning to the center hole I reversed the air lines on the bottom.  Now there is no power going to the selenoid when the close out is retracted.  The switches all work fine and the default position is retracted and it is not burning up power while parked.  
I still have not found the reason for the hot selenoid.  I checked the wall more closely while reinstalling the unit and it is charred and cracked.  Seems like way too much heat to me and this has been going on for a long time.
The back side of the selenoid does indicate .65 amps so perhap it is drawing too much power?

I do suggest that everyone power up their air system and extend the close out and after 5 minutes see if this unit is gettng hot.

Thanks to all
Keith

[Edward Buker]

Keith,

Solenoids by their nature do produce heat and now you will not be burning it up while just sitting still for days. Your powered duty cycle will be much less. If you remain worried, place a small sheet of aluminum metal on the wall with a couple of washers behind the metal for a spacer and do the same between the solenoid and the aluminum sheet to allow heat dissipation on all sides. There will be no scorch marks in the future and the whole assembly should run just a bit cooler. Glad you got to the bottom of this with Gerald's well reasoned pointer.....


Later Ed

[Keith Moffett]

nd your invaluable help as well!
Thanks again
Keith

[Edward Buker]

Happy to lend a hand when I can, enjoy your ride.....

Later Ed