Non sliding slide out

[Adam Hicklin]

Had a strange thing happen today.  Went to bring the slide in.  Hit the switch, and nothing happened. No click.  No noise.  Nothing.  Checked the ignition to make sure it was off. Still nothing.  Remembered the HWH control box in the electrical bay.  Went to get a screwdriver to remove the cover to check for a blown fuse and as I walked by the control switch, decided to try it.  It worked and retracted the slide.  This to me would indicate some sort of loose connection. I don't even know where to begin though.  Any ideas?

[Tom and Pam Brown]

In the electric bay there are relays.  Mine had a wire pull loose from the spade connector and exhibited the same thing.

Use a flashlight as they are hard to find.  Also, the schematic on the door may not correct in labeling so check them all.

[Gerald Farris]

Adam,
The problem that you described is usually caused by a defective slide control switch. The easiest and quickest thing to check is to check the power into and out of the slide switch.

Gerald

[Adam Hicklin]

I need to revisit this issue.  The switch has become very temperamental. All wires to the relay are secure.  Here is a pic of the switch and wiring.  The orange and gray wire (top and bottom) are jumpered together to the brown wire.  I'm assuming the red wire in the center is the incoming power. What is the brown wire?  How exactly would I go about testing this switch as Gerald suggest?  I don't know much about 12 volt electrical and like everything on this coach, I don't want to screw anything up.  When I do, it is expensive.  

[Edward Buker]

Adam,

Also check to see if you have an electric brake on the motor shaft. On one end you will see a donut shaped unit with several wires going in. I had the exact same symptom and my electric brake would not release. It was a mechanical issue requiring cleaning. I also had absolutely no noise involved. If you have an electric brake, you can search on a prior post of mine to review the fix.

later Ed

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Ed,
This looks like his front slide.  The bedroom is electric and has a motor brake but the front should be hydraulic so don't think a motor brake is part of the system.

Adam,
Pretty sure the switch will connect the center post (red & brown wires) to either the orange or grey wires, depending on which way the switch is depressed. You can check it out with a meter. Considering the age of your coach, it's possible the switch is dirty or just starting to go bad. Another possibility is that the crimps on the connectors or the spade lugs themselves at the switch have built up enough resistance to cause the problem. If it happens again, remove the switch as you did this time and wiggle the wires/connectors to see if it starts working.
Steve

[Edward Buker]

Sorry, missed which slide was not working, Adam's coach maybe has just one, not sure. So happens I was working on my bedroom slide today and it must have been on my mind....

Whenever we cannot figure out why something on our motorhome does not work and then it fixes itself, it is simply the "Magic Mechanic" at work.

Later Ed

[Adam Hicklin]

Thanks guys.  Yes, it is the front slide (and only slide) which is hydraulic.  Just pulling it out to snap the picture made it start working, which would indicate a loose connection, but everything seems tight and wiggle free.  Thinking it is the switch itself.  

[Edward Buker]

There is also an electro-mechanical solenoid switch on the pump motor that has been an issue in the past with other owners. The contacts over time tend to fail.

Later Ed

[Roy C Tyler]

Try some Radio Shack Tuner spray on the switch contacts.  Pull each spade lug off one at a time and spray the spade lug and plug it back on and work it a couple of times to remove any tarnish.  It may be just a dirty contact. I had that problem with my leveler switch.

[Joel Ashley]

I'd pull the connectors off and check the switch with an ohmmeter.  If micro jiggling the rocker affects the readings in one position or another, then perhaps the internal switch contacts are fouled up.  Some rocker switches can be carefully pried apart and cleaned up, but it's often easier to just get another one;  they can be fickle operationally.  If you want a Beaver logoed one you may have to ask at BCS Parts.  But the switch plate may be reusable with a new switch body.

If the switch seems to check out, I'd closely examine each wire-to-female spade connection for solid connection between spade crimp and wire;  and try Chuck's idea on the switch's male spades, and that the connectors fit together solidly.  The center red lead could be checked with a voltmeter for consistent voltage when the wire is jiggled, especially if the slideout operation is troubled in both directions.  There has to be a reason that moving the switch body affects slide operation, so if it's not one of the two above possibilities, it could be a splice or something deeper in the wall, or even a damaged/partially cut wire.

Joel

[Adam Hicklin]

Thanks guys.  I'll first try cleaning the contacts.  Should power turned off at the breaker before I disconnect the switch or Willie make a difference?

[Joel Ashley]

That's a 12 volt switch with wire leads protected by female connectors.  There's not much chance of accidentally shorting one.  But if you're concerned, pull a fuse or disconnect a breaker as needed, or tape over the red wired connector, which, if the switch is configured the way I think it is, is the only hot lead.

It's situations like this where a multimeter is priceless.  I have several, from my electrician Dad's old high end analog Simpson, digital and clamp types for current measurements, to cheap analog ones.  The inexpensive "Radio Shack Specials" are small and handy, but not really a bargain;  cheap small gauge test leads all too often break at the solder inside their connectors or handles, and they aren't reliable.  When you have a problem while traveling, you need tools that work, so get good ones.

Joel

[Adam Hicklin]

Thanks Joel.