Cabinet Door Veneer Repair

[Lee Welbanks]

In the Beaver I had noticed that some of the Burl inlays were starting to lift around the edges on the cabinet doors. So how to glue and clamp these so wood block will not stick to the door. Used a teflon sheet from the kitchen section Walmart, oak wood blocks and $5.00 cheapo clamps from Harbor Freight. Used a artists small paint brush to apply the Gorilla glue in under the edges, wipe off excess with wet paper towel and clamp her down. Works great cause the teflon will not stick in the glue. the Gorilla glue drys clear so if there is a little squeeze out you can not notice it. Good as new, let dry for a few hours and on to the next one. After a close inspection almost all the doors inlays have lifted some.

[David T. Richelderfer]

I have been using a similar technique with contact cement.  I went to the vet supply area of the local farm store to get a syringe that had a fairly large diameter needle... thus the hole in the barrel of the needle will handle the thick contact cement.  The syringe will easily suck up the cement from the bottle and the cement can be placed in just the right amounts deep into the cleave between the separating veneer and door backing.  I push the veneer closed several times to spread the cement well, wipe off the excess cement that extrudes, leave it sit for an hour or so until the glue is nearing dried, then clamp the veneer down tightly overnight.  The only problem I have run into is gluing down the lifting veneer on the pocket doors on the door edge near the pocket.  But I think I have developed a technique for that too... after much experimenting.

[Lee Welbanks]

I have been using a similar technique with contact cement.  I went to the vet supply area of the local farm store to get a syringe that had a fairly large diameter needle... thus the hole in the barrel of the needle will handle the thick contact cement.  The syringe will easily suck up the cement from the bottle and the cement can be placed in just the right amounts deep into the cleave between the separating veneer and door backing.  I push the veneer closed several times to spread the cement well, wipe off the excess cement that extrudes, leave it sit for an hour or so until the glue is nearing dried, then clamp the veneer down tightly overnight.  The only problem I have run into is gluing down the lifting veneer on the pocket doors on the door edge near the pocket.  But I think I have developed a technique for that too... after much experimenting.

I thought about using contact cement, but went with the Gorilla glue per past performance with wood and ease of use and clean up. I also figured out how to remove the panel on the frig, could not believe how simple that refrig panel in held in place.

[Bobby Kirk]

What is the trick on getting the panels off frige to glue veneer down?