New Back Up Camera???

[Dick Simonis]

I've been researching various option to my existing backup camera system and it's been very educational to say the least.  Lot's of misinformation out there and so many folks claim to be experts....until you ask questions about anything that is not on the CS cheat sheet.

One supposedly "expert" company (rvcams.com) actually told me that IR cameras have to matched to an IR compatible monitor.  Since I've been digging into the topic is seem that, within reason, any camera will work with any monitor...even a TV set.  Pretty much anything with an RCA video in jack.  So, right now I'm looking at replacing the camera than the Flexvision monitor later.

Because our camera is Interal viewing through a 2" dia Plexiglas window it seems that the IR vs. non-IR camera becomes a big question.  Tentatively I have settled on a couple of bullet CCD camereas

http://www.rockyamericas.com/usa/products/flush_mount_rear_view_camera2.html

or it's IR brother

http://www.rockyamericas.com/usa/products/flush_mount_ir_rear_view_camera.html

For mounting I have two option. One is to drill a hole in the plexiglass and let the lens peek outside or fab  mount that uses the exiting bracket and nestle the lens up to the window.

If I don't cut the window I Probably can not use IR since it my reflect off the window and screw up the image.  On the other hand, I'm not even sure the IR is worth the trouble.  Specs call the range of the IR lights is only 6-10 ft which seems kind of worthless in a MH.  Without IR, the low level light images qppear very good and the backup lights would even augment that if truly reversing.

The last consideration is the Plexiglas itself.  I can't help but wonder if that could be an issue which could reduce the effectiveness of a new camera.

Reckon I just looking for opinions before I pull the trigger.

[Matthew Harger]

I'm in the market for both, a new screen and a new camera, so I'm interested in any advice.  Ideally, I would like something that I can just unplug from the old wires and plug new equipment into.  Not sure if today's equipment is compatible with the wiring used in my older coach.  I haven't yet dug in and removed any of the equipment to see what the connections all consist of.

[Karl Welhart]

Dick,

Not sure what symptoms have caused you to go down this road.  I also had problems with my rear camera and monitor.  Thought the problem was the camera, but ended up being the monitor.  I basically replaced the old camera with a new one of the same model and picture quality was the same on the monitor.  Replaced the monitor with a Kenwood flip-up style and what a great improvement...

Then after a few years, the Kenwood flip-up stopped working and I replaced it with the RandMcNally 7720 GPS with rear camera plug-in feature. I really like this setup.  I replaced the Kenwood flop-up radio with a $100.00 great CD/USB/SAT/AUX/remote control receiver for music.  The RM 7720 is by far the best GPS I have used and your can just touch screen back and forth from maps/GPS to rear camera.  

[Dick Simonis]

The problem I'm having is the quality of the image is very poor and fades away completely when heavily overcast, rain, etc.  Today I dug the coax out of the bundle behind the TV and found that it has an RCA plug which I than plugged directly into my TV for a test.  Picture was the same as on the monitor so I'm certain that is the problem.

Than I called Motion Industries, which made the camera, and they confirmed the symptoms are consistent with a bad camera,  They will still supply a replacement but it's expensive compared to current technology....really high quality for it's time.  I might pop in and see them when I'm in Eugene for the painting but I'm still leaning towards a new model.

For a monitor, I found several very nice flip down models that will mount under the TV and perhaps can even be recessed like the existing unit.

If I order a new camera soon I can have it shipped to BCS and it should bet there when I arrive next week.  The advantage to that is that if I decide to drill a hole in the window, they could help

Still don't know if the IR is worth it but if I end up drilling the hole it's kind of like why not.

For reference, this is what my camera looks like.

[Edward Buker]

I have the original camera in my 2002 Marquis and it feeds an Alpine unit with a flip up screen. In general I have been happy with it. When towing, the car surface can have a bright reflection point like a windshield that will produce an annoying vertical line on the screen due to too much light overloading the image device. I do not fault the camera given the camera looks down on the windshield which is facing up towards the sun. Just an unfortunate scenario of reflection and mounting location.

For those of you that are getting a failing camera I wanted to point out a flaw in my coach wiring. The Alpine head unit screen will power off with the ignition key but the camera does not so if you forget to kill the side console rocker switch while the coach sits you can accumulate hundreds, maybe thousands of extra hours on the camera for no purpose.  I thought that could be leading to some of the camera fails folks are experiencing. I'm not sure all coaches are wired this way but I believe mine is so I have gotten in the habit of killing the camera and then the ignition switch.

Later Ed

[Keith Moffett]

Thanks for the tip Ed. .  Ours is the same Alpine so I will try to remember to do that.
Does your monitor get the RF rolling static lines on it?

Have you ever looked into a four camera system for yours?  Not ready yet but perhaps down the road a bit it would be a nice upgrade for us.

Keith

[Edward Buker]

Keith,

Mine does not get that rolling static line. Sounds like maybe the shield ground from the camera may not be good. You can kill other electronics that are nearby the Alpine head and possibly see what may be creating the RF if it is a nearby source. If you unplug the camera lead to the Alpine and the RF line remains it could be coming in the 12V line to the Alpine and some filtering may help. If it disappears when you unplug the camera I would check the ground shield on the RF cable at the camera end and the Alpine end. If nothing else unplug the camera lead and put them back in a couple of times to renew the contacts. That scrapes away surface oxidation.

I have not looked into a four camera system and there is enough going on in the cockpit now to distract me. I have good coverage around me with the triple mirror on each side so I am happy with that. Looking at a screen and having it go through a sequence of four views, means my eyes would have to linger there and sort which view and that would be eyes not on the road where the serious action is. I'm not a huge fan of that one in concept but maybe it is a better idea than I think it is.

Later Ed

[Bill Borden]

Hi Dick,

I was having a few simulator problems with our camera.  Have you pulled the camera and turned it on to see the picture?  Try it, I found out the camera worked fine.

The problem was the plastic lens window had many scratches from years of improper cleaning.  So I went Tap plastics to get another lens cover.  After replacing it the camera worked better, but the old technology it still is not great.

But it works and I can see the jeep.

Good luck,

Bill

[Dick Simonis]

My camera give a pretty sharp image looking into the coach but not through the window.  I does a couple of things while in operation:
1)  With no car to focus on the image is absolutely useless.
2)  Driving in bright sun give an acceptable image but grainy and flickers.
3)  As soon as I get in a shadow the image gets bad and if it's heavily overcast and rainy, the pic is useless.

The tentative diagnosis was a failing auto gain control board.

I changed the BNC connector early on and cleaned the window without much improvement and have been living with it for 4 years hoping the camera would crap out completely and be covered by the extended warranty.

I have now decided on this camera:

http://www.amazon.com/700TVL-Weatherproof-Vehicle-Security-Function/dp/B00B55QY04/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=05TYBCY4FC67948VK46X

Bought it yesterday and it should arrive at the RV park in Caldwell Monday.  I off to BCS on Tuesday and I'm going to have them drill a hole in the window (solves another problem) and mount it in place.  Since the replacement camera from Motion is ~5X more $$ for older tech I could not justify the direct replacement....if all goes according to plan.

I can not think of any reason this camera should not work unless the monitor is also going bad.

[Dick Simonis]

YEH.....SUCCESS.

Camera was installed today and Carl did a great job.  The picture is terrific.  However my first plan of drilling a hole in the lens met with disapproval by the experts so back to plan B which was to fab a mount and put  the lens right up to the glass.  Big surprise is that the camera has built in back up lines but the spacing between the increments seems to work out to 3 ft and the lines go to 12 feet.  The filed of view appears to give ~40' behind and probably one lane on each side but I won't know for sure until I get on a highway.

I'll try and take a pic later so you'll see what I mean but overall really jazzed since I have not had an effective camera since we bought the coach.

I would recommend this mod to anyone with a similar problem.  One note though we did have to install a voltage regulator ($2,00 at Radio Shack) since the camera was speced at 12 VDC +/- 10%.  It already has a BNC connector so the coax plugged in without an issue.

Dick

[Dick Simonis]

OK, now that I've had the camera for a bit and used it on the road, I'm not quite as happy as before.  The grid lines that I thought were kind of neat turned out to be a distraction on the road with the car in tow.  The IR lights for use in low light situations reflect off the glass and wipe out the image....not good but I don't drive after dark so???

Now to consider my options.  The image is fantastic if I can work through the small details.