Water Pressure/water pump

[Joel Ashley]

Assuming the city water fill is off, it should fly... eventually.  When I bring mine out of winter's sleep, it often takes a very long time for the pump to prime and reach anything beyond the sputtering stage.  Is the filter on the pump inlet clean?  If you have a winterization "kit" installed, is the valve to the antifreeze pickup hose turned fully off, and are all your drains, near the pump and at the water bay manifold, completely off?

Otherwise it does sound like a new pump may be necessary.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

Try taking the aerators of you faucets and see if they are plugged up.  Do you have good flow in the toilet, how about the shower?

[Jerry Emert]

Assuming the city water fill is off, it should fly... eventually.  When I bring mine out of winter's sleep, it often takes a very long time for the pump to prime and reach anything beyond the sputtering stage.  Is the filter on the pump inlet clean?  If you have a winterization "kit" installed, is the valve to the antifreeze pickup hose turned fully off, and are all your drains, near the pump and at the water bay manifold, completely off?

Otherwise it does sound like a new pump may be necessary.

Joel

City water off, checked it 3 times.
I cleaned the water pump screen filter earlier it was dirty but not plugged.
What does the winterization kit/valve look like and where is it?
Low point drain is off.

[Jerry Emert]

Try taking the aerators of you faucets and see if they are plugged up.  Do you have good flow in the toilet, how about the shower?

toilet flow seems good but not sure what it should be.
Same with bath room.
I took the plastic aerator off in the kitchen, better but still slow.

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Jerry,
A couple of dumb questions for you, but
1.  Is your fresh water tank full?
2.  Is your auto-fill switch on?
If the answer to question 1 is no, you must have water in your fresh water tank.  Without water in the tank, the pump will give no assist to incoming water.
If the answer to question 2 is yes, you must have that switch off.  If it is on, it just keeps pumping water through the pump back into the tank and it seems like there is no water pressure.
I know you probably have made sure these to conditions are as needed, but all your recent posts indicate either of the above conditions.
Roy Warren

[Jerry Emert]

Jerry,
A couple of dumb questions for you, but
1.  Is your fresh water tank full?
2.  Is your auto-fill switch on?
If the answer to question 1 is no, you must have water in your fresh water tank.  Without water in the tank, the pump will give no assist to incoming water.
If the answer to question 2 is yes, you must have that switch off.  If it is on, it just keeps pumping water through the pump back into the tank and it seems like there is no water pressure.
I know you probably have made sure these to conditions are as needed, but all your recent posts indicate either of the above conditions.
Roy Warren

Yes Sir the tank is full as far as I can tell.  While filling I laid on the ground and waited for the over flow to start flowing then turned it off and waited for it to stop in case there was a siphon.
The valve in the water bay is off and I could hear the flow in the hose stop and see the over flow stop when I turned it off.  I opened the low point valve while the pump was running and shore water was off.  It felt like it was blowing air.  I could stick my finger over the drain pipe for a sec and when I took my finger off it would spit a little bit of water out of the drain.  At that point I had to stop.
Thanks

[Edward Buker]

Jerry,

Possibly a bad pump or somehow it is completely air bound or a hose crimped or the prefilter screen is plugged. The pump is usually in the bay behind a screwed panel. It would be worth taking a look and see if all the plumbing going into the pump is properly set up and clamps are tight. No kinked hoses blocking flow. You could pull the inlet pipe and put it in a bucket of water and see if the pump will pull water from a bucket. If it does not self prime from a bucket then get a new pump. Air bound should self prime and clear the air in most all cases.

Later Ed

[Larry Williams]

Jerry,
Your coach probably has the 55 PSI version of this city water inlet. The one that Ed recommended is the 65 PSI version. It gives a lot better water flow.

Gerald

I took the advice here and replaced the city water inlet. Even though the units looked identical, when I took the old one out it was labeled 50psi. The new one was labeled 65psi. Now I have great flow! Thanks Ed and Gerald and the others here that convinced me to go ahead and do it.

I also replaced the shower head with an Oxygenics head that concentrates the stream. It takes getting used to the narrower stream, but it really helps getting the shampoo out of long hair.

[Edward Buker]

Larry,

Wish  I had long hair but that left long ago :-)

Later Ed

[Larry Williams]

Larry,

Wish  I had long hair but that left long ago :-)

Later Ed

I wish I had long hair too (or at least more hair than I have now). But my significant other has long hair and was always complaining about the lack of ability to rinse shampoo out of it. Now these fixes should make her happy. Thanks again for the pointers.

[Joel Weiss]

Jerry,

You can have one that looks like this but this newer version ups the pressure and the flow. Even when the campground supply is less than 65psi I have found that the flow at lower pressure is much improved. The older version is chromed plastic and looks the same but needs to be a 7222. They are cheap enough and I would change yours even if it was a 7222 to rule that out.

My city water inlet regular failed the other day and I got a new one at Amazon.  The old one was the original and was rated at 55 psi; the new one is the 65 psi version.  The improvement in water flow was amazing.  I think the new regulator must have a rather different design and not just 20% higher pressure.  Glad I made the change.  

I have been using a Watts regulator at the hose spigot to protect both my hose and the "stuff" I have before the city water inlet, including my power hose reel and water filter both of which I have permanently mounted in the area to the left of the wet bay.  I'm considering plumbing the Watts in permanently instead of putting it on at the spigot each time.  One less thing to do and to forget to put away.  I realize this would mean my hose wouldn't be protected by a regulator, but I'm less concerned about it blowing out than I am plumbing connections inside the MH.  Can anyone see any other drawback to putting installing the Watts inside the MH?

[Edward Buker]

No problem with that configuration if it will fit, good idea Joel. I also changed my inlet regulator and had the same vast improvement in water flow. Crazy not to make that change if you have not done it yet....

Later Ed

[Lee Welbanks]

I have found that most of the RV parks water pressure seldom is about 60 psi so most of the time I don't even use my Watts reg. I have a test gauge setup and that's the second thing I test after the power supply. Check the water pressure and if its over 65 or so I will run the reg at the hose bib, I removed the one out of the water manifold. There is a park up in Gardiner Montana that has around 110 psi water pressure and they will warn you and supply you with a reg if you don't have one.

[Jerry Emert]

Problem solved with water pump.  Remember I'm new and when this happened I was still getting to know my MH.  Well, as I was experimenting that day I found the switch that activates the dump valve for the tank.  I never knew it.  When I "filled the tank" the water came back out leading me to believe that the over flow was coming out because it was full.  As I'm sure you've figured out by now, not so!  Anyway I did finally figure that out and shut the valve, pump still didn't work.  RV repair tech that I know and trust finally figured out that the dump valve was not closing all the way which would not allow the tank to fill so there was nothing for the pump to pump.  So problem solved!  200+ to close the valve manually and orders not to use dump valve.  Oh yeah and I decided to get the 5GPM pump just for giggles.  Works great, 200 more!

[Joel Ashley]

That's not going to be a very good selling point when it comes time to sell the coach.  It's certainly not as convenient as intended or expected on a Beaver.  I'd still look into getting the electric valve working properly again.  A new solenoid?  Motor?  I have no experience with that particular mechanism, but would guess one of those 2 things.  If the valve itself takes more force than usual to close due to some sort of damage, that might be harder to replace.  Just my 2 cents.

Joel