General Boards > Technical Support
Front Door Seal ... continued
Tom Rogers:
The Front Door Seal Is Not Working Properly As Previously Posted
2006 39’ Monterey
I disconnected the socket and gave 12 volts directly to the pump. The door seal puffs up the way it should when the door is closed or open without the coach running or ignition on. I have verified the seal does not puff with engine running in neutral and in gear with brakes on & off.
I can see the schematic showing the relay number, power from the ignition and ground. There is soooo much harnessing in the front clip I can’t tell if the wire has separate grounding. Not sure where to proceed and would appreciate any input. Thanks. Tom
Joel Ashley:
So we know the air source is apparently okay, and no leak, but the seal isn't getting air when the engine is running and tranny in drive, as designed. It inflates with everything off, so I reckon I'd suspect the brass regulator component and its wiring, which I'm thinking (but not sure) is the on/off air valve, since it has two wires emenating from it. I would think it shuts off air to the seal unless switched open by the tranny being in gear; alternatively, it must have been open when you tested the pump with ignition off, so without a schematic in front of me, I'm a bit befuddled as well. Tracing those wires through the harnesses would be no fun, even though each is supposed to have ID on them - it can be really hard to read.
If you have a multimeter and can see if the regulator valve is getting power as it should when the seal should be inflated, that would narrow things down; on the other hand, the valve must have been open for your puff test to have inflated the seal with engine off, so again, without the schematic I don't know how the electrical control of it works. Just be careful under there. Perhaps the voltage test could be made at the relay, which I guess I'd look for in the front electrical bay using the schematic and the "map" on the bay door? :-/ Also, does the pump get voltage when it should? Gotta be the pump or regulator voltage, I'd think.
Joel
Joel Ashley:
Hey Tom-
I've a question: I thought the door seal inflated with air from the main tanks. You say you tested it by energizing a pump?
Did you use a meter to check for voltage at connector 87a off relay K24 with ignition on and in gear (wire 259)? The current should quit there with tranny in neutral. My take is that K24 sends ignition current from circuit breaker 36 through to the air seal solenoid at all times except when the tranny is in neutral. I'm also assuming the solenoid is the brass valve attached to the regulator, and that the solenoid is normally spring closed unless opened by electricity.
That seems to conflict with your puff test, because activating a pump without applying voltage to the solenoid valve to open it would not result in an inflated seal. And, as I said, I thought door seal air sourced from the main tanks anyway. So I have to admit some confusion, and hope you or others can straighten me out. :-/
Tom Rogers:
--- Quote from: Joel Ashley ---Hey Tom-
I've a question: I thought the door seal inflated with air from the main tanks. You say you tested it by energizing a pump?
Did you use a meter to check for voltage at connector 87a off relay K24 with ignition on and in gear (wire 259)? The current should quit there with tranny in neutral. My take is that K24 sends ignition current from circuit breaker 36 through to the air seal solenoid at all times except when the tranny is in neutral. I'm also assuming the solenoid is the brass valve attached to the regulator, and that the solenoid is normally spring closed unless opened by electricity.
That seems to conflict with your puff test, because activating a pump without applying voltage to the solenoid valve to open it would not result in an inflated seal. And, as I said, I thought door seal air sourced from the main tanks anyway. So I have to admit some confusion, and hope you or others can straighten me out. :-/
--- End quote ---
Good input. What I did to check for "NO LEAKS" and "IF VALVE" was working was to disconnect the connector at the regulator. The thingy that looks like a valve/solenoid. Put a hot and ground wire directly into the female side of the plug. The seal inflated and the valve stopped pumping after reaching the set PSI. So the error is someplace going back toward the relay .... or the relay. I haven't worked on that project because I need to finish my taxes (GRRRRRRR) by tomorrow. Appreciate the input. Will stay in touch to my results.
Joel Ashley:
Ya had ta remind me... I haven't done my taxes yet due to a late corrected 1099 I still haven't received. :D
Well, when you get to it, you might also check the tightness of the screw at terminal 11 on block #2, which I haven't looked for yet myself, but is probably one of the main junction blocks in the electrical bay. If the "map" is still stuck there on the inside of the bay door, it can help guide you around (if not, I have a photo of it on my computer I can send). Circuit breaker 36 and of course the solenoid's ground connection are also possible culprits. Hopefully the problem is there and you don't have to track wires through looms looking for shorts.
As you can probably tell, I managed a gander today at the wiring diagram book.
Good luck!
Joel
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version