Drop Down TV won't Operate

[Edward Buker]

David,

I have no specific understanding or cure. It is suspicious that it happened after you killed power to the coach for a period, which has one wonder if some form of "logic" or safety feature was confused when you powered back up.

It may be that a relay contact or a motor contact, if it has brushes, was intermittent. Really hard to know.... What I would do is check and tighten any wires that are easy to get to and cycle the TV up and down 10 times to check the functioning. If it cycles and works 10 times repeatedly, then it is likely it will keep working and the "bug" is out. I know there is a risk that it could close and not open, but it may be better to have that happen before you are ready to hit the road.

Later Ed

[David T. Richelderfer]

Right now I am hoping it goes up when we depart in a few days.  When we get back to home 100 miles away, then I will try the 10-times up and down suggestion.   

And thanks for the reply.

[Jerry Carr]

David this has been a problem we have had for many years, we've been to BCS and never found a solution. But I have found one way to prevent a lock up/down and that is to never go all up or all down. If I can bump the switch in the opposite direction I have found I can always move the lift. Yes we drive with the TV hanging down about 1-2 inches but the heat then does not cause a lift issue.
 

[John Hennessey]

We just had our lift overhauled by the company that originally built them. They rebuilt it in a day. BCS overnighted it and they returned it in 2 days. It cost $450.

[David T. Richelderfer]

Thanks Jerry for that suggestion too.  I remember now I read in one of the older threads where you had posted that suggestion.  I will try to use this not-quite-closed option when we depart in a couple days.

BUT... I determined why the TV did not drop-down.  It was waiting for me to be under it... so it could try to get me!  The Beaver Demons are forever vigilant.  Fortunately, I am still young, 66, and in pretty good shape... and carry a sub-10 GHIN.

[Jerry Carr]

David I know that the issue is connected to heat, if the set is fully up the sun will create the heat by keeping the set open the 1or2" it helps but I still have to move it up before it will operate downward. If all down same issue the heat will not allow an up movement until I can go down sooo.... know I just hold short. I have not thought about a total rebuild of the system since I can work around the issue. Of course we at times have a helpful tech that will put the set all up and I go OMG (#@%##) here we go again!   

[Joel Ashley]

Jerry, don't you live in or near the Seattle area, so you could drop in on the company that makes the lift?  Laura's original comment about the control box, and those about heat and the BCS techs not finding the issue, seem to imply the problem for many if not most owners is perhaps not in the mechanism, but either contacts or board solder points in the control box.  Contacts arc and carbon up, and solder points on an integrated circuit board micro-crack from repeated heating and cooling;  either one will result in the symptom of inconsistent operation - sometimes enough electric current can flow through and sometimes not depending on the completeness of contact.

Admittedly, yours seems to be more mechanical if its consistently operational from a partly down position, but it could also be contact positioning inside the controller or motor.

Joel

[Jerry Carr]

Joel you are correct that it sounds like a contact problem the heat issue is more of the problem the lift is working great up and down but if we go all the way home (up or Down) the problem then becomes a real issue you cant get to the gear box once it up. I have planned to add access but since I have found a way around the problem I have just gotten lazy. I think the OEM is in Bellingham, WA

[David T. Richelderfer]

I just replaced the momentary on, rocker switch that actuates the TV raise and lower function.  Last week it became obvious that the switch was the problem.  If I pushed sideways just a little on the switch button, then it would work.  If I pushed straight on the button, then it would not work.  Yes, I checked the connections on the back of the switch.  The switch cost was only $3.42 but with FedEx freight added the total cost was over $16.00.

It's a Carling switch...  normally OFF, momentary ON, rocker switch.

From the invoice:
"(Special Order) SSI: AP421703 : All Points 42-1703 Momentary On/Off Rocker Switch - 12A/125V, 8A/250V (PRT1)  $3.42  1  $3.42"