Author Topic: painting aluminum slide trim  (Read 5431 times)

Richard Anderson

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painting aluminum slide trim
« on: September 19, 2014, 06:40:28 PM »
My 2002 Monterey w/2 slides has an aluminum trim strip around the outside of each slide.  The paint on the trim strips on both slides keeps chipping off.  I have had them professionally repainted, and I have also tried repainting them myself, and the chipping keeps reoccurring.  I have used aluminum spray on primer before painting with no luck. Not sure what the professional used, but that job only held up for 6 months.  Has anyone else had this problem and have you found a solution?  
« Last Edit: September 21, 2014, 09:21:00 PM by 20384 »

Karl Welhart

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2014, 07:25:06 PM »
Richard,

I also had the same problem on my 2002 Patriot. The trick is to clean first with acetone (be very careful not to get on the painted surfaces). Then apply PPG's Alodine (there are other brands) solution to the strips.  This will provide a long lasting surface to paint.

Karl
Karl and Nancy Welhart, F36017
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David T. Richelderfer

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2014, 07:30:47 PM »
This comes from this web page:  http://exp-aircraft.com/library/alexande/painting.html

Since painting aluminum is a common event in planes, I searched for "painting a plane."  This is, in part, copied and pasted from the above web page.  I guess it depends how involved you want or need to get.


PREPARATION OF SURFACES

Aluminum

Aluminum surfaces are treated differently depending upon whether the metal is new or used. Paint must be able to "grip" or adhere to the surface onto which it is applied. Most aluminum surfaces have a layer of pure aluminum on the surface called alclad that protects the metal from corrosion. It is very smooth and not favorable to paint adhesion. Therefore the surface must be adequately prepared by cleaning and slightly roughening to guarantee primer adhesion. This is accomplished by using a conversion coating such as alodine. This chemical process creates a ceramic layer over the aluminum that coats the surface and provides tooth adhesion. Used aluminum must have any primers, paints, or corrosion removed. Paint strippers are used to remove old paint. After stripping old paint the corrosion should be completely eliminated. Use fine sandpaper, Scotch Brite pads, or aluminum wool. Never use steel wool or a steel brush. After the corrosion is removed the old aluminum should be acid etched. This is simply a process of washing the aluminum with a product such as Poly Fiber's E-2310 Acid Etch diluted with water. An acid etch removes oil and light corrosion while etching or roughening the surface to provide a firm primer bond. The part is then thoroughly rinsed. Next wash the surface with E-2300 Conversion Coating that inhibits corrosion and further enhances primer adhesion. After this step the part is rinsed and allowed to completely dry. Once again, new aluminum surfaces need only be treated with a conversion coating.

After the aluminum (new or old) has been properly cleaned and treated, it is then primed. I would recommend using a two-part epoxy primer. An epoxy primer will insure corrosion protection and also provide a bonding surface for most topcoat paints. Very often, polyurethane topcoats will lift or wrinkle primers other than epoxies much as a paint stripper would do. A primer is necessary to provide a bond between the metal and the final topcoat paint. The primer coat should be applied according to the manufacturers directions. Usually, two light coats will be applied. Heavy coats should be avoided.


TOPCOAT PAINTS

You have a choice of the type of topcoat paint along with a large number of brand names. Enamel is a paint that is commonly used on aircraft surfaces. These paints are sprayed over epoxy primer after being thinned to proper consistency using enamel thinners. A light, mist coat is first sprayed on and allowed to dry for a few minutes until it is tacky to the touch. This is then followed by a full coat of enamel. One full coat may be sufficient or another may be sprayed if desired. The use of enamel is not as popular as it was in the past.

A second type of topcoat paint is acrylic lacquer. This paint has a low solid content that makes it more difficult to apply. Acrylic lacquer should be thinned using the proper thinner and then a very light tack coat applied. An additional 4-5 cross coats of paint will then have to be applied allowing about 30 minutes drying time between coats. (By the way, a cross-coat is defined as moving the spray gun north and south followed by east and west: one cross coat).

Polyurethane paint is probably the most popular choice for a topcoat today. It is very durable and provides a high gloss finish. It is also chemically resistant. These paints have a high solid content and they cure very slowly which means they continue to flow out for a long period of time. This flowing out process forms a very flat surface that gives the surface a high gloss look. Polyurethane enamels are mixed with a catalyst prior to use. They are then reduced to proper viscosity for spraying. A very light tack coat is first applied followed by one or two full coats. One problem inherent in polyurethanes is the thickness of the film applied. If the paint is applied too thick it may tend to crack over a period of time. This is especially true when applied over fabric. The fabric on an airplane will flex and move during flight. This movement coupled with the thickness of polyurethane paint can present a problem. Polyurethane paints designed for fabric airplanes are manufactured and should be used when painting over polyester fabrics.

The one major problem encountered when using polyurethane paints is its toxicity. Breathing the spray mist from polyurethanes may cause severe sickness or even death. With this in mind, you must use a forced air breathing system such as the HobbyAir system. You should also protect your skin and eyes.
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Steve Jewell

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2014, 01:52:52 AM »
Richard,

     Your trim is probably stainless steel and not aluminum. The prep for stainless is much different than aluminum.

Steve J

Edward Buker

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2014, 05:37:03 AM »
I believe Steve is right but it may also depend on the model and year whether your slide edge trim material is aluminum or stainless. I also understand that there are some configurations where the side pieces can be aluminum and the bottom piece is stainless.

On my 2002 Marquis I had an issue with the bottom trim piece on the rear slide blistering off paint in large pieces and the material in my case was stainless steel. If you are not sure, scratch the surface lightly with a small screw driver where you are losing the finish, aluminum will scratch readily and stainless will not. I was able to take a razor blade and strip off the finish given the poor adhesion. I discussed the problem with the PPG folks and they recommended a two part epoxy primer that was grey in color but I am away from home and cannot check the cans in the shop for the numbers at the moment. That primer was followed with a basecoat and clear coat and it has been several years and there has been no adhesion or finish issues with this work. I will be home in a little over two weeks if someone is interested I can check what was used at that time.

Basically it takes a special epoxy primer to adhere to stainless steel and most all automotive primers are not the right chemistry to be able to adhere to that metal.

Later Ed

Richard Anderson

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2014, 09:54:06 PM »
Well, a magnet does not stick, which is what led me to believe it is aluminum.  However, I do understand that some stainless "steel" is actually an alloy rather than actual steel and will also fail the magnet test.  Since the aluminum primer didn't work, I will look for a two part epoxy primer as Edward suggested and see if that will work.  The paint on the rest of my Beaver is in excellent shape and I hate how the chipping on the strip makes it look not cared for.  BTW, I have a Monterey, not a Marquis.  I have been traveling the past few days and I passed a beautiful tag-axel Marquis in South Carolina and had it on my mind since I almost NEVER see a Beaver here on the east coast.  Thanks for your suggestions and any others that you might have.  

Joel Ashley

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Re: painting aluminum slide trim
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2014, 11:49:35 PM »
Stainless comes in different compositions, Richard.  It begins with at least 10% Chromium.  But even stainless isn't necessarily stain-free, so Nickle commonly is added in various amounts to rearrange the iron molecules into a new crystalline structure such that they aren't oxidizable.  To make stronger versions (such as for cutlery and razor blades) Carbon is also added to varying degrees.  The higher the nickle content the more costly stainless is.  Sometimes manganese supplants nickle because it is cheaper.

So due to the reduced percentage of iron and its molecular modification, you'll see a reduction or virtual elimination in the magnetic effect.  It can make it hairy trying to decide if something is aluminum or stainless, so Ed's scratch test in a hidden location may be helpful.  And as Ed remarked, stainless requires a special primer in order to tie a topcoat paint to it.

Joel
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