Author Topic: How do I waterproof Rivets  (Read 12117 times)

Gary Wolfer

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How do I waterproof Rivets
« on: November 27, 2014, 02:22:54 AM »
A couple of weeks ago I had my awning box leaking down the inside of the passenger sidewall and getting the inside wall wet on my 98 Patriot. Along with that the back basement compartment started leaking. I had some 18 oz truck vinyl and gorilla tape and did a temporary repair. I covered the rivets holding the box to the side of the coach and attached a 12" wide 20' piece of vinyl across the top of the awning box to stop the leak. We had wind and rain that night and the vinyl came loose and fell to the ground but the gorilla tape was still attached above the awning box over the rivets. The wall quit leaking as well as the back basement compartment. Mind you it was a last minute effort to stop the leak in the wall. However the wall quit leaking and the basement dried out as well. Now my question is I have always had a leak in the rear basement box under the super slide on the drivers side. I see there are rivets across the outside top of the slide and on both ends. If the sidewall repair on the passenger side stopped the leak dead in its tracks maybe I can stop the wet basement compartment below the slide as well. Last summer I took both of the basement compartments off and replaced the lower slide seal and reinstalled the boxes after sealing all corners with tinfoil tape unfortunately the same rear box leaked when the rains came. I need to seal the rivets without making an ugly mess. I need some suggestions. What have you done?

Roy C Tyler

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2014, 03:48:03 AM »
This is what I use on almost all of my leaks and IT WORKS!!!  Good for up to 18 years.

http://www.eternabond.com/ 
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Keith Moffett

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2014, 11:48:26 AM »
Gary
I just had a thread on this a few days ago.  We had a similar leak only it showed up ontop of the entry door frame.  Here was my solution.
Use a plastic scraper and remove the old silicon sealant on the seam and rivets.
Remove residue from old sealant using wax and grease remover available at automotive paint stores.
Apply approx. 3/16ths bead of clear Lexal sealant to seam and cover rivets at the same time.
I did this about a month ago and we have had several inches of rain along with wind and freezing. 
This worked for us!  Good luck!
2007 Patriot Thunder
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Larry Fritz

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2014, 03:38:15 PM »
Gary, on our 98 Patriot we had water leaks showing up on the inside cabinent walls in the kitchen/sofa area. I ran a test like you ran using plastic during heavy rains and the leaks stopped.

However, the leaks were not at the rivets but were at the overlap seam (YES, I could not believe it) located on the curved dip side of the slide of to top metal piece held on with the rivets.  I used a thin layer of RTV along that entire seam and all leaks stopped.

I had done a thorough visual inspection with a bright light before doing the RTV fix and could not visually find any leak source!

I was happy the repair was in a place that does not show visually.

Larry
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Gary Wolfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2014, 08:09:02 PM »
Thanks for suggestions guys. Roy or Chuck Eternabond works goon on flat surfaces on roofs but would show terribly on side of coach. Kinda like I did with the tape over the awning box luckily it does not show up as well above the box. And is temporary.

Keith I have heard of Lexal but never used any yet. Not sure if i can cover rivets without making a mess of lumps every 6" over rivets. Everything will show on sides of coach.

Larry I will look closer at seam at top of the slide above the rivets and try that first maybe with some of Keiths Lexol. It looks like there was never anything waterproofing the rivets on the side of my slide in the first place. I am still open for suggestions. Thanks all of you.

Roy C Tyler

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2014, 08:36:59 PM »
Gary
According to Eternabond website, the tape can be painted.  You would only need a narrow strip over the rivets and then paint to match your coach.

Gary Wolfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2014, 10:22:39 PM »
Roy I tried to paint over eternabond on a skylight over the shower and it peeled because it was a smooth shiny surface. Maybe they make different types?

Gary Wolfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2014, 10:25:41 PM »
Dicor makes a similar product to the eternabond that has a scrim kinda like cheese cloth on the top that you can cover with dicor elastomeric coating that works real well.

I looked up Lexan and found a product in a tube called Lexel that looks very interesting. It comes in a small tube and a regular calking tube Is that what you are talking about Keith?

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2014, 10:53:04 PM »
Yes, that's it....  LEXEL    Made by SashCo.  I got my tube at Ace Hardware.  It does not dry quickly, although it gets tacky quickly.  Tack free in 30 minutes.  Cures firm in 2 to 4 days.  Totally cured in 1 to 2 weeks.  Paintable with latex paints after 48 hours and oil paints after a week.  Visit www.sashco.com for more info.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2014, 11:00:06 PM by David T. Richelderfer »
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Keith Moffett

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2014, 12:42:01 PM »


I looked up Lexan and found a product in a tube called Lexel that looks very interesting. It comes in a small tube and a regular calking tube Is that what you are talking about Keith?
[/quote]

Gary, yes that is it I simply spelled it wrong.  If you use the clear it is so clear that it picks up the color of the paint it covers and  small dawb to cover rivets cant be seen.  Ace hardware or home depot has it.  I pay about $7 for a caulking tube size.
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Joel Ashley

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2014, 12:06:49 AM »
Gary, a review of many threads on this Forum over the last couple of years will show a hearty endorsement of Lexel.  It is not silicone, but looks and behaves much like it.  I've used it on our coach in several regards, but like anything else it depends as much on the expertise of the applicator as much as it does on the product used, so there was a small learning curve.  Although it isn't what I deem the ultimate solution, my last and more diligent application of Lexel into the deteriorated parts of my windshield brow and seal finally stopped most of the water that was leaking into my electrical bay (forwardmost streetside hatch).  If you clean the surfaces thoroughly that you expect the Lexel to stick to, and apply it properly, that stuff should do the trick.  It cures as fast or faster than silicone, stays flexible, adheres better, and seals at least as good.

At first I could only find it at Ace Hardware, hanging over the caulking display.  But I've since found it at Lowe's and several other chain hardware stores, although not at Home Depot    http://www.lowes.com/pd_587695-1278-LEXCD13525_0__?productId=50139922&Ntt=caulking&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcaulking%26page%3D3&facetInfo=

On the Oregon coast, I'd look for a Coast-to-Coast, True Value, or Hometown Hardware store, but I think there is an Ace there just down the road from you in Waldport.  It is available, at least at Ace, in both a caulking gun size and the smaller squeeze tube I prefer (and no, you don't have to buy a 12-pack ;) )   http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1419419#showReviews
I see in another thread you've already "ordered" some, Gary, but your Ace should have it in stock

The only gripe I have is that you've got to seal the tip well.  Note the negative reviews on the above Ace link;  they probably let the stuff set up in the tube before using it - that has nothing to do with the great results you should get from a new tube.  It will semi-cure (oxidize) in the nozzle and set up just enough that you have to spend the first 10 minutes ultra-squeezing and using a wire to dig out the first inch of partially set up Lexel.  That part will grudgingly move but won't flow and stick to your surface and is a pain when you just want to get a job started.  I'm still experimenting with caps and techniques to use with the squeeze tube to avoid that hassle.  It's not a problem if you use it every few days, but who does that?  I've finally learned that if the visible product in the tube gets hazy instead of perfectly clear, it's about time to toss it and get a new tube.  And cut as small a bit off the tip as possible.

When fresh and clear through a minimalist nozzle opening, Lexel applies to clean surfaces like a dream, and can be feathered with a wet finger much like caulk, as long as you don't wait long to feather it.  I've taken to using it on our house too, especially whenever I drill a hole to screw something into the siding or somewhere.  Lexel protects penetrations from water entry bar none.  When we had the house resided this fall, and the contractor was replacing hose reels and such after the job, he was pretty impressed with Lexel when I had him use it. 

Kudos again to Gerald for originally alerting us to Lexel.

By the way, Keith, there is a product out there for sealing and caulking that's called Lexan, probably for Lexan plastic products.  So don't get it confused with Lexel, Gary, when you go looking for it.

Joel
« Last Edit: November 29, 2014, 12:37:07 AM by Joel Ashley »
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Gary Wolfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #11 on: November 29, 2014, 12:37:04 AM »
Joel Thanks
I had some points on my credit card and purchased two small tubes of clear lexel from Amazon that should be here right after the first of December. I paid just under 6 dollars a tube plus shipping but it was points so Not so bad. I am messy with a caulking gun as I squeeze too many times and it keeps coming out so I figured I am safer with the small tubes. Looking at the super slide again it looks like there is a cap over the top and rivets on the outside on about 6" centers. The rain water seems to go down the sides of the slide though so I am going to try to seal the rivets and seam on both ends first. I moved from Waldport to Florence and am now living on the Siuslaw just east of the Casino so I will not have to wait long for sideways rain. I am happy about the dicor seal I put on the roof last summer I took air conditioners off and did a good job and so far no leaks in the roof. I had a tarp built just in case but found out with 8 concrete pier blocks the wind would pick the blocks up so the tarp was not such a good idea but my roof job works fine.

Joel Ashley

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2014, 01:00:15 AM »
We are getting hammered here this afternoon in Portland, so I imagine you've seen bad weather in Florence.  The further south you go the more the wind is a factor.  On our winter coast trips we regularly got beaten around by 60mph and up wind;  enough to make me get up in the night and pull in the windward slides to at least calm the fabric slide toppers.  Up the creek a ways you should be a little more out of the wind.

I feel for you on the caulking gun bit.  So a couple years ago I splurged and got a fancier gun.  I paid a whole lot more than the price at this link, though    http://www.tools4flooring.com/newborn-111-professional-caulking-gun-p-196.html

It was worth it.  It has a simple thumb release that I hit when I'm done squeezing caulk at the end of a run, and it automatically takes pressure off the tube end, immediately stopping the flow.  Sure makes for less cussing, and a much neater job.

The problem with tarps is that the wind blows them in such a way they rub on the coach.  Straps and ropes especially cause damage.  I used them once on the old Pace Arrow and regretted it.  I should have just put in the effort to fix the leaks, because the body and paint damage down below was very visible, albeit not as harmful as moisture penetration damage can be.

Joel
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Gary Wolfer

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Re: How do I waterproof Rivets
« Reply #13 on: November 29, 2014, 02:29:30 AM »
I held the pier blocks away from the coach so the rope did not touch the coach until the heavy wind came. 2 of the blocks came a foot off the ground so I quickly untied it and the wind blew it off in a pile and then I folded it up after the wind died down. Lesson learned. The tarp was 10 oz truck vinyl and 42' x 10'6" across. I will probably cut it down for other uses. That is what I did for a living before I retired. Built Truck Tarps.