Battery Compartment Door Repair?

[Bill Brown]

We have an 06 Monterey.  The exterior sheet metal covering the battery compartment access door panel has again separated from its frame.  About 3 years ago the welds holding the exterior panel to the frame broke, so we took the coach to BCS where they rewelded the panel to its frame and then had to repaint the door.   Well, the panel has again separated from its frame and I am worried it may fall off while on the highway, so I am considering placing stainless steel rivets along the upper edge of the door to hold the sheet metal in place. 

Curious if anyone else has experienced similar failures, and if so, how they repaired their door panel ?   

Thanks for any assistance and/or comments that may assist in fixing the problem permanently.

William & Nova Brown
06 Beaver Monterey, Laguna IV
CAT C-9

[Steve Huber]

Bill,
You might consider running a bead of Lexel along the frame and then adding a couple of rivets to firmly secure the panel. The Lexel should keep the panel sheet metal from bowing. This should decrease the amount of rivets needed. Paint them to match and it will look like new. I did a  similar repair on my side generator door.
Steve

[Bill Brown]

Steve,  Thanks for the quick reply.  Curious on the Lexel how it may be effected by cold temperatures?  I hadn't considered the Lexel, but sounds like a great idea.  Can the Lexel be applied  in colder temps?  We are still in Coeur D' Alene and temps are pretty chilly.  I will have to accomplish the repair out in the storage lot, although I could probably secure the panel with a few rivets, wait until we get south to warmer weather, the end of January or early February, drill out the rivets, then apply the Lexel and re-rivet. 

Thanks again,

Bill

[David T. Richelderfer]

On my tube of Lexel it says, "Apply between 0F - 120F on surfaces free of oil, dirt, frost, and loose material."

Later it says, " Tack free in 30 minutes.  Cures firm in 2-4 days, totally in 1-2 weeks."

[Bill Brown]

David,  Thanks for the information.  I expect I will pickup a tube of the Lexel.  The Lexel should probably hold better then the welding did.  Not sure why original and BCS welds didn't do the job, but hopefully a combination of Lexel and rivets will. 

Thanks again.  Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.

Bill & Nova

[Larry Fritz]

I have had cracked welds on our 98 Patriot for many years. I solved it by (very carefully analyzing and drilling 10-32 holes in the upper door area and used  three to four  Stainless Button head bolts (length is critical or you will mess up the panel) to hold the assembly together. Had held up well for many years.  I posted this years ago but not sure when. This year I noticed a new crack on another door and will fix it in due time.

The bolts are really not noticeable to anyone but a Beaver owner. They look like  they belong there and of course do not rust. It  was fast and easy and inexpensive; but, if you do this be very careful where you drill the holes. I used star washer nuts behind the bolts.

The trick is to have to length of the bolt such that that when tightened it does not protrude beyond the nut.  There is space in there to accomplish that.

Larry Fritz 98 Patriot

[Gerald Farris]

Bill,
Another suggestion that you might consider is JB Weld instead of Lexel. Since JB Weld is designed as a 2 part epoxy structural adhesive, it may give you a stronger bond if the low temperature environment is not a problem.

Gerald   

[Bill Brown]

Larry & Gearld,

Thank you both for your additional comments/suggestions. 

Larry, the welds that keep breaking are across the top of the door, right at the hinge, so I am sure if there is sufficient room for a bolt/button and nut, that was why I was considering the rivets.  Fortunately I have not seen any cracking across the exterior metal, so I haven't seen a need to "drill stop" as yet.  Keeping my fingers and toes crossed that I don't either. 

Gerald your suggestion for the  JB Weld sounds good providing I can pick a day to do the final assembly warm enough for its use. 

We have a couple days this coming weekend with forecast high temps around 40*, so maybe I can do my repair at that time. 

Thank you both for your suggestions. 

Bill

[Mark Bryant]

I'm having the same problem my 06 Monterey, glad to see the fixes being talked about. I'm lucky to be Florida now and don't have the cold to worry about!☀️☀️

Mark Bryant

[Russ Taylor]

What if you take the door off the frame and bring it indoors where temperature wouldn’t affect the adhesion 

[Bill Brown]

Russ,

That is a good suggestion.  I just need to spend a little more time out at our coach to see how to remove the door/panel. 
There's no question it would be much more desirable to do the work inside out of the wind and cold temps.   On my last look,  I didn't immediately see how to go about removing the door. 
 
Any particular area to look at to expedite the door's removal.   The gas struts need to be released, however I didn't notice where to unbolt any hinge.  Could they be riveted?   We are supposed to be snowed upon tonight, so will  go out to storage tomorrow afternoon for a look, to see if I can determine how to remove the door.   There's no question being in where it's warm, dry, and having some good lighting, the project should go easier.

Thanks,

Bill

[Russ Taylor]

Bill you don’t have to take the gas cylinders off.   Take the door off the black frame there are about six screws on each side of the door.   You will need to cut the electric wires for the auto lock.  Use but crimps to reattach

[Bill Brown]

Russ,

Thanks for the info.  I don't think the electric lock on the battery/fuel filter compartment door has ever worked.  I will go out this afternoon to take a look, and confirm what tools I will need to remove the panel.

Bill

[Bill Brown]

Hello all,

Well I made it out to the coach for a look-see, to confirm just what will be needed to remove/repair the Battery/Fuel Filter compartment door. 

Russ, I found no screws holding the door frame in place, instead there are 21 rivets, and no electrical for a locking mechanism.
I expect  there being no electrical locking on that door is the reason I didn't remember encountering any in the past.

Now to what was used to secure the exterior sheet metal to the frame.  I got a big surprise, all that had been used previously was two-sided tape.  Yes, tape!  I could see no indication of any weld or welds having been broke in the past.  In one way I guess that will make my repair or a temporary repair much simpler.   I expect, at least as a temporary fix I will pick up some Lexel at Ace Hardware.   Then when temps get warmer, I can do a more permanent fix.   

Our coach is not a true Beaver, it's a "Beaverco",  Beaver/Monaco.  It began its life in Bend as a Beaver, but was moved over to Coburg for completion by Monaco.   Thus, I am wondering what other shortcuts were used by Monaco to capitalize on the Beaver name?   

Thanks again everyone for the assistance and comments.

Bill
 

[neil omalley]

Yeah, about that tape? I've got a 2005 Thunder and two sided tape is what holds on that whole panel over the rear duallies. Surprise !!!!!