micro-relays

[Mike Bohte]

2006 monterey owners manual states see labeling on compartment door for specific assignments???
Had coach since new there was never a label on door. ordered a new wiring diagram from monaco. that don't a complete listing.
NEED HELP
Thanks Mike

[Gerald Farris]

Mike,
Its not clear what you are trying to repair or which relay you are looking for.

Gerald

[Mike Bohte]

K3 relay third one on top row has 2 wires that look burnt. don't know what it controls

[David T. Richelderfer]

On my coach there is a diagram on the inside (backside) of the electrical bay door.  K3 is labeled "slideout."

[Jon Treder]

How timely this has surfaced.  I am trying to trouble shoot my entry step and I also do not have the labeling for the micro-relays which are located in the front road side power bay.  My manual indicates the labling should be on the inside of the door as well.  Does anybody have the lableing they can post or send to me. Is there any assurance the all specific model Beaver coaches were wired and labeled the same so that if I am able to get the labeling from someone else it will be applicable form my coach? Whether I need it for this trouble shooting or not, at some point those of us who have coaches that are not labeled will need it some day.  Help with the labeling PLEASE.  But specifically which micro-relay is the entry step?

[David T. Richelderfer]

These pics are from my coach, a 2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire.

[Mike Bohte]

Thank you david I'll check and see if k3 is for slides
If anyone has labeling for 2006 Monterey please post if possible.
Thank You
Mike

[Joel Ashley]

Here ya go, Mike and Jon.  Sorry... between the fading of the sheet before I thought to photograph it a few years ago, and having to downsize the resolution in order to post it here, it may be somewhat hard to read some tags.  But print out several copies, for bay door, owner's manual, and service file - be sure to use the slow, high quality selection on your printer in order to maximize readability.  You might even want to laminate the one you put in the bay;  and it doesn't have to be glued to the door... twisting my neck or standing on my head to read it is no fun anymore       . 

K3 is the condensor fan, Mike;  I'll leave it to others here more electrically adept to prognosis the likely cause of the high current draw and burning.  Circuit Breakers 15 and 37 (and perhaps 16 according to wiring diagrams) are Jon's entry step -  b.t.w. a common entry step issue is the magnetic switch in the door.

But keep in mind that as Jon alluded, my Ventura IV may be different enough from yours that some circuit breakers, connections/buss locations, and relays may be different, so use mine as a general guide and not an absolute.  In fact some of the wiring documentation that came factory-included with mine has proven to be off on occasion, as installing technicians fudged on their paper guides for whatever reason.

-Joel

(just click on the description under the image to open it in your computer where you can copy it to a file for your coach or print it out.  I'd make a note on copies that it isn't original to your exact coach, though - a caution reminder to you and any future owner.)

[Jon Treder]

Thank you so much Joel,  I will check out the diagram you sent, I also received the one from David Richelderfer and will compare the two.  Will report back what I find.  Thanks also Joel for the checking of the door jam magnets.  I did check them and they were covered with metalic filings, crazy how and were those filing would come from but cleaned them off anyway. That did not solve the problem.  Initally the step motor was bad, now replaced, my first conclusion, thus causing me to think that a fuse was blown.  But since finding out the setp is electrically fed from the self resetting micro relays, I am at the point of determining from which Relay?  Hopfully the wiring diagrams will help.  But I also have 12 volts going through the entry wall mounted switch so now thinking it is not power blown fuse problem.

Joel, other than the metal filings is there another problem with the door jam magenets that you can explain? 

Thanks,
Jon P

[Edward Buker]

Jon,

The little reed switch that is triggered by the magnet can have bad contact points and can quite working. It is basically a single pole single throw switch. You can short the leads that go to the magnetic switch and see if the step works, if it does work then replace the sensor/switch that is triggered by the magnet.

Later Ed

[Joel Ashley]

Attached find the pertinent diagram, Jon.  I tried splicing the images, but the result wasn't as good a quality, so the page is in two parts here;  you can print them and tape them together overlapping the common center to make one sheet.  Click on the text under each image to open and work with them in your computer, and maybe try merging them there with a photo editor.

Note there are no relays mentioned, unless they are inside the controller.  But I wouldn't go there as a first option.  The magnetic switch mechanism that's screwed into the door would be my first exam, as Ed suggests.  The filings you found are likely from someone's metal repair, with a file or drilling nearby the magnet, and they are relatively inconsequential to your problem.  As I recall the switch wiring is accessible from the front curbside wheelwell, or underneath, as well as by unscrewing the switch escutcheon from the doorframe.  The wiring behind can be compromised by exposure - wiring damage or corrosion.

-Joel

[Jon Treder]

Awesome Ed and Joel, hopefully back to trouble shooting tomorrow morning.  Thanks for the wiring diagram Joel that will help a lot and the magnet switch operation explanation Ed.  I really appreciate the help.
Jon P.

[Jon Treder]

So, one more question Ed and Joel,  when I install the new motor I was not sure what position the controller was in, i.e. step in or step out.  The indicating light on the drivers dash says step out but when I reinstalled the step motor I mounted it with the step "IN" so I am wondering if that was an error and since the step out indictor light is luminated that I would need to change the installation of the motor so that the step is out, so the controller is in the same position as the actual step position. Do either of you Ed or Joel think that that makes a difference? 
Thanks again,
Jon P.

[Edward Buker]

Jon,

I would think that the controller logic would have to match the motor position. I would give the manufacturer a call. You may be able to kill the power and manually see if you can turn the drive system to get the controller and motor/step position in sync.

Later Ed

[Jon Treder]

Thanks Ed,  that is an easy reversal.  Unplug the controller, apply 12 volts to the motor to open the step and re-plug the controller back in.  I will do that as see if that was a porblem. 
Thank you both for all the excellent guidance.
Jon P.