Author Topic: Chassis Batteries Discharging  (Read 36410 times)

Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #15 on: May 25, 2015, 01:43:26 AM »
Walt,

I know it seems strange, but at a couple of amps of draw, my starting bank gets pretty far down charge wise over 2 to 3 days. Don't be surprised if that is all it is. I have never researched how the ECU voltage is fed from the starting bank to the ECU. It must just be a lead that comes from the unswitched side of the battery switch or from a terminal in the battery bay. If you find it and route to the switched side of the battery switch you would solve the problem. I am not a fan of the knife switches Keith is referring to if they have a plastic base. He may have found higher quality then I have seen. I would add a diesel rated marine on off switch with leads to add another on/off shut off capability if you think what you find is a bit flimsy.

Later Ed

Gerald Farris

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #16 on: May 25, 2015, 04:16:41 AM »
Walt,
The ECM on virtually all Marquis coaches of your era is powered from the battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid. The battery cable to that terminal does not run through the cut off switch because of the very high amperage demand of the starter.

Gerald

Mike Groves

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #17 on: May 25, 2015, 01:37:10 PM »
Gerald,

Is the starter solenoid the one in the wiring basement cabinet below the driver?  I have noticed under some conditions, that when starting my coach the starter makes an initial revolution (perhaps), then a short pause, then starts the engine.  I always felt like this was due to a lower voltage as I've never noticed it during a restart, for example, after a rest stop.  Only happens on a "cold" start.  Could this be the solenoid beginning to fail?

Ok, updated question, now that it appears that the starter solenoid means the one on the starter, then what is the part called that's in the wiring cabinet under the driver and what is it for?  Perhaps I need to check my connections at the starter.  Maybe this wire to the ECU has been taken off since I can leave mine for such long periods of time without it running down.

Thanks, Mike
« Last Edit: May 25, 2015, 02:57:27 PM by Mike Groves »

Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #18 on: May 25, 2015, 02:04:06 PM »
Thanks Gerald, I did not know where the ECU tie in was.

So Walt, if you got a length of the same gauge stranded wire as what leads to the ECU from the starter post (that is the smaller wire, main positive lug connection on the starter also has the large gauge wire from the battery), remove that smaller wire from the starter post, and used a high quality butt crimp connector to connect them. Ancor makes a heat shrinkable tubing with a glue type sealer (available at West Marine) or depending on size 3M or Ancor makes smaller self sealing butt connectors with the self sealing heat shrink already incorporated.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--heat-shrink-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_003

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing-alt--P009_275_003_003


Basically, make a weatherproof connection and tie wrap the new wire along the battery to starter cable until you are behind the battery compartment and then lead it up to the chassis switch and put a suitable size crimp lug connector that will go on the switched post. I like to crimp and then solder the wire in the connector and then use some sealing heat shrink on it....just my way of assuring I will never have a problem. So basically you are moving the connection from a battery post feed at the starter to a switched feed now at the switch.

If you add this change there will be an extra 20 seconds or so of wait time for the ECU memory to be written when the battery switch is turned on. Once the battery switch is left on, that delay will not be involved until you turn the chassis battery switch off again. Hope this helps.

Later Ed
« Last Edit: May 25, 2015, 02:15:10 PM by Edward Buker »

Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #19 on: May 25, 2015, 02:33:38 PM »
Walt,

One more thing, the battery lead on the starter is hot all the time so the end that is at the chassis battery will have to be disconnected from the battery post to do this job. I never know whether to assume that everyone who might do this job knows this or not...I'm guessing the do but just in case :-)

Later Ed

Gerald Farris

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #20 on: May 25, 2015, 04:05:22 PM »
There is one thing that I would like to caution everyone about here. The ECM does not like dirty power (no spikes are static), and that is one reason that the ECM was wired to the battery cable at the starter, it was the cleanest power source available. Another reason is that it was a very short wire run (the ECM is bolted to the engine just above and to the front of the engine), and this gives less of a chance of induced noise in the power supply from outside sources. Therefore, if you decide to make this modification as a last resort to prevent chassis battery depletion, be very careful with connections, wire gauge, and wire routing.

Do not confuse the problem of the ECM discharging the chassis batteries with the inability of the chassis batteries to be recharged when plugged in to shore power. If you are plugged in to shore power and your chassis batteries become discharged, you have another problem. On an SMC era or early Monaco era Beaver it is usually a malfunctioning Echo Charger caused by a bad fuse, and on a later Monaco era coach it is usually a malfunctioning "Bird" system. Therefore, determine witch system you have and address the correct problem.

Gerald     
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Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #21 on: May 25, 2015, 09:17:32 PM »
Gerald makes a good point about keeping the power source clean and proper routing. If this was a car you would avoid being near the coil or plug wires for instance. The reason for being on a heavy gauge wire near the battery is that the 12V batteries have a very low impedance, meaning they absorb rises in voltage, like spikes and will protect electronics to a great extent. On the downside that lead sees make and break heavy acing from the starter solenoid contacts so it is not all that clean.

I discussed this issue with Caterpillar engineering and they indicated that most vehicles are wired to turn the ECU on and off with the ignition switch or with a relay. The wire to the battery chassis switch is also a pretty heavy wire so when the switch is on it will be very similar to the way it is wired now and when you turn the battery switch off the only collapsing field I can think of would be the ignition buss solenoid if the key happened to be on and that is diode protected. My opinion is that this change should work fine but as always keep good wiring practices in mind.

Later Ed   

Greg Kamper

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2015, 08:37:34 PM »
I put a switch to kill the power from the main 12v supply power to my AC Delco stereo. My chassis batteries would go dead within 48 hrs if I didn't turn off the switch in the engine filter bay. Beaver, at least in my 2000 Patriot Thunder, did not kill the supply power to the stereo with the ign. switch. The rocker switch I put in kills the main stereo power, but not the memory. The stereo still has a pretty good draw even if it is shut off otherwise. Maybe my coach is a little different, but I too had new batteries and after I installed the switch it worked. I also have the solar, but it would still drain. My radio switch is the unmarked switch on the right. It lights up when the radio is on.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2015, 06:11:03 PM by Greg Kamper »

Mike Groves

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #23 on: May 29, 2015, 10:40:36 PM »
All,

After 6 weeks absence from my coach, I returned to the "undercover" storage facility this morning, turned on the batteries, and checked the chassis battery voltage (as I promised I would).  It was 11.7V so it was no lower than I have ever seen it after having been disconnected by the battery disconnect switch.  Up to now I've only left it as long as a month between visits.  As usual after checking the generator oil and coolant levels, I started the generator using 11.7V and it started immediately after its 5-10 second delay to heat the diesel fuel.

Obviously something was changed between the 1999 and 2000 model years and my coach doesn't suffer this drain from the ECM (I still think that 2amps is a pretty high current just to refresh a small microprocessor).  My guess would be that other '99 Marquis owners won't have this issue either.

Thanks,
Mike
« Last Edit: May 29, 2015, 10:43:02 PM by Mike Groves »

Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #24 on: May 30, 2015, 04:11:00 AM »
Mike,

If you are down to 11.7V you do have the problem, those are essentially dead batteries and if you leave them depleted for long periods of time it will sulfate the battery lead plates more rapidly and that will diminish the battery life. Either you have a very voltage tolerant starting system on the generator or the generator starting load is actually tied to the house battery bank. You could test that by turning off the house battery switch and see if the genset will start.

I'm not saying you have to change anything if you are happy, there is no real issue if you can always start the coach and you do not mind getting a bit shorter life out of your starting battery bank. It is just that 11.7V means all that battery charge is going somewhere and that is not likely caused by small parasitic loads like a radio memory.

If anyone has been following this post and really would like to make a change to finally fix this problem, after reading my info and Gerald's concern about having a clean power source, the safest change would be to buy a diesel rated battery cut off switch and mount it in the battery compartment. The heavy positive lead that goes directly to the starter would be removed from the battery post and tied into the new switch. A new lead of the same or similar gauge would come from the switch to the battery post where the starter cable was previously tied in. In essence you have not changed any of the connection points/wiring paths in the coach wiring. If you leave the coach this extra switch will end the load issue due to the ECM power issue that we have today. This switch is marine rated, 400amps continuous, 600 amps intermittent, and 1500amps cranking and will do the job nicely for $50. NAPA and other places will usually make up cables if they do not have a suitable one that is premade.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--pro-installer-400a-on-off-battery-switch--15798911

Later Ed

Mike Groves

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2015, 03:07:33 PM »
Hi Ed,

I've already tested where the generator gets its power, and unfortunately it is tied to the chassis batteries.  I say unfortunately because I'd considered installing an Automatic Generator Start (AGS) but the idea was not that appealing to me for the very reason that my coach and your coach and everybody's SMC era coach's generators start off the chassis batteries unless you rewire them to the house system. 

So I was disappointed to find this out, however, the reason to choose the chassis batteries is due to their relatively "light use" when compared to the 4-6 house batteries.  In today's coaches with AGS, well, that point is moot, because the generator will sense low voltage from the house batteries because that's what its tied to and then it will start automatically BEFORE the batteries get too low - so that makes sense as well. 

I understand SMC's choice (no AGS included in our coaches) therefore and its the logical one - you want to split the system and be able to start the generator if the house batteries get run down while dry camping. 

What nags at me is all the forum talk about this "ECM parasitic charge" even when one turns off the battery using the "disconnect switches" whose design should be to do exactly that while in storage.  I believe that switch does exactly what its designed to do just like the house battery disconnect switch.  There is no "EMC parasitic draw" in my SMC era coach, so I am suggesting that there might be another issue your coaches have other than the "ECM Parasitic draw" (simply because we have such similar coaches - especially the engine). 

The radio has been mentioned as well, but I've replaced mine, and when the battery disconnect is used, that radio is DEAD, so that's not an issue either.  Besides that design has 2 leads to the radio, one for the radio (through the ignition switch) and one to keep the memory fresh (to the battery) while the ignition switch (and radio) is off.  I installed my new radio with both leads tied to the battery so that I can play it while the ignition is off, but like I said, when the battery disconnect is OFF, my radio is dead, I lose all previous settings, so there's no parasitic draw there and again I don't believe my wiring is different from other SMC era coach wiring with respect to the radio.

We can disagree over whether 11.7 is a dead battery or not, but if it starts the generator after 6 full weeks in dry and covered storage, then it bridges the system so that you can start the coach after leaving it in storage for that long period of time rather than having to have an electrical connection (and you should be exercising the generator anyway).  The difference between 12V and 11.7V might be the temperature outside, or, as I've been told before, the loss of voltage from the battery to the Silverleaf (yes, I've actually had people tell me that!) indicator.

Ed, now that you've eliminated the "ECM Parasitic Charge" with your wiring mod, which I assume you did because you experienced "dead batteries" after a week or so, even with batteries disconnected, have you left your coach for up to 6 weeks in dry (batteries turn off), covered (no direct sun solar assist) storage and is the chassis battery up to 12V after that time?  That would convince me that SMC 2000 and later coaches have an ECM parasitic charge issue since that would be the "control" to the experiment.  In my case, after 6 weeks, and without the mod I have certainly proved the opposite, that there is no draw of this nature on my '99 Marquis.

(Full disclaimer here, I haven't looked to see if either of the previous 2 owners made any sort of modification to my coach in this regard.  I only say I doubt it, due to the fact that the hurricane system was maintained so poorly that I would wonder who would make this mod while at the same time allowing a critical system to decay.)

Let me state directly what I think.  I think the "ECM parasitic draw" is a myth, and I've stated why I believe this to be so.  I do agree that while batteries are connected, that my batteries will run down due to the ECM within a couple of days, and therefore I do use the battery disconnect for the chassis if I know I am going to be parked without power.  That being said, I'd like to see if we can "mythbust" this claim that the battery disconnect doesn't prevent this draw by having someone who's "worked around" the issue, as you have, do the experiment as I have done WITHOUT doing anything in my case.  I'd guess that you use your coach a bit more often than I do, so you're not going to be able to do the experiment, but I wish someone would.  Here are old post references and I've read them, and I see no documentation provided -

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,1369.msg9210.html#msg9210

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,955.msg5780.html#msg5780

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,891.msg5961.html#msg5961

It's funny now, but based on these posts, and later ones, when I first got my coach, I made sure I bought storage with an available electrical connection (cost me more) so that when my chassis batteries ran down as I was now sure they would from reading the forum, I could charge them up.  I drove 60 miles round trip once a week to storage and back just to check on the batteries, then lengthened that to every two weeks, then slipped up and skipped 3 weeks (still without a problem), then went to once a month just to see how long they would last, and now sort of accidently (forgot when I'd last gone until my wife showed me) left it parked for 6 weeks.  All without a problem.  Based on my experience, and that I don't see why the design would change between 1998 and 1999 (the build years for 1999 and 2000 coaches) that something would have changed.  Personally, I think the parasitic draw might be in the solar charging system.  It is documented that the when solar panels are not producing current they are actually drawing on the connected batteries, and I believe the solar charging system is attached to both batteries - might be wrong.  In my case, being in covered storage, I may be getting a slight charging during the day because there is light bouncing around even in under the storage, and at night there's the draw.  If someone keeps their coach totally inside, in the dark, then there is a continual draw which might, over time, draw down the batteries even with disconnect switches off because I think the solar is still connected, right? 

Thanks,
Mike

Edward Buker

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2015, 07:32:15 PM »
Mike,

When I bought my current coach, a 2002 Marquis on an SMC chassis, I parked it without being plugged in for about 3 days and I went out to start it and all I got was a click. Not sure if you went three or four days or more if you ever mentioned trying to start the main engine and if that worked with a normal cranking speed. That led me to take a look at the problem and there was already a lot of info on the forum given this is not a new issue. I have not rewired my coach or added a switch to eliminate this load because my coach is always plugged in being stored at my home.

I lifted the chassis battery main lead and measured about 1.7 amps of draw with the battery switches off using a DC current meter in series with the battery lead on my coach. In discussions with Caterpillar engineering about the ECU current draw,  1.7 amps +/- is the correct amount of current draw if left powered. It is not a myth and you can verify yours with a DC amp meter if you like. I discussed if there were any issues if we did rewire our coaches and drop the constant current source to the ECU and after some research they came back and said dropping power would not be an issue, so anyone should feel free to change this configuration if you prefer to as long as good wiring practices are used.

The solar panels are wired to the house battery system so they are not part of the chassis battery drain issue.

Normally a pair of chassis batteries should be able to sit for a month with a few milliamps of current draw to power normal parasitic loads like radio memory and lose maybe .1 volts. A fully charged battery after using the coach would settle out at 12.6V at 100% charge level and should remain above 12.4-12.5V if not being drawn down by the load of the ECU.

Mike, as an electrical engineer, that is the analysis of this problem as best I can describe it to you and what is possible as a solutions for you and other folks on the forum. Batteries at 11.7V are essentially discharged.

One way you could examine this on your own is to have the coach charged up and your car charged up and measure the voltage day by day on the coach chassis batteries and your car battery if it is also not in use. What you would see is the voltage decay on the chassis batteries on your coach and not on your car, the difference is the ECU load on your coach. You could also with a DC current meter measure the load on your car and your coach and see the difference is in the range of 1.5amps more on the coach.  If you are not concerned and what you do now works for you then that is fine, no need to fix a problem if it is not an issue with how you use and store your coach.

Later Ed

 

« Last Edit: May 30, 2015, 07:49:33 PM by Edward Buker »

Joel Ashley

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #27 on: May 30, 2015, 09:01:35 PM »
I'm going to guess there are diodes in place in the controller to prevent electrons backfeeding through the solar cells, making them essentially LED's, Mike.  The cells themselves are like LED's in reverse.

Joel
« Last Edit: May 30, 2015, 09:08:14 PM by Joel Ashley »
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
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Mike Groves

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2015, 11:52:13 PM »
Mike,

When I bought my current coach, a 2002 Marquis on an SMC chassis, I parked it without being plugged in for about 3 days and I went out to start it and all I got was a click. Not sure if you went three or four days or more if you ever mentioned trying to start the main engine and if that worked with a normal cranking speed. That led me to take a look at the problem and there was already a lot of info on the forum given this is not a new issue. I have not rewired my coach or added a switch to eliminate this load because my coach is always plugged in being stored at my home.

Ed,

And when I first brought mine home I only had it parked for a couple of days, and went to start it, and it wouldn't turnover, so we're saying the same thing, and I am not disagreeing that the ECM is drawing from the battery normally - i.e. without using the battery disconnect, as I am suspecting was your case as well as you didn't mention disconnecting the battery in your opening paragraph.

The difference, evidently, and when I say evidently, I mean based on the evidence, is that if your coach continues to draw that off while the disconnect switch is set in the proper way such that the chassis battery is "disconnected", then your system is simply different than mine.

An electrical engineer would certainly tell me that a 2 amp draw on my 12V battery system will certainly result in a battery being discharged way below 11.7 amps after a couple days, let alone 6 weeks.  My daughter recently called us late at night and told us the Jeep wouldn't start.  When I got over there the next morning it was at just over 9V, not able to crank the starter.  I charged it up, and crossed my fingers, since my daughter assured me that no lights had been left on (meaning that it couldn't possibly have been discharged that way, right?).  After a couple hours sitting there, waiting for it to charge, it started right up, and hasn't exhibited the same issue again. 

Conclusion, obviously something was drawing current so I think she probably did leave something on but either didn't notice or was being sheepish about it.  Wouldn't have taken much draw over the approximately 6 hours it had been sitting when she returned to it and tried to start it.

My point is that my coach, for one, is obviously different than these other "SMC era" coaches, and the one size fits all solution to a battery drain problem with battery disconnect set as "oh, its the ECM parasitic draw problem once again", simply shouldn't be given out as a fact.  It could be other things.  I know in my case it CERTAINLY would be something else, as mine, after rigorously having been tested again and again, doesn't exhibit this condition.  I encourage you, Ed, since your have shore power available anyway, to disconnect your chassis battery using the rotary switch, and let it sit those 3 days in that condition and see if the battery did discharge.  If you meant to say that in paragraph 1, then fine.

As an example of what else could be wrong, perhaps the disconnect switch is faulty, and not actually disconnecting but leaving open the opportunity for, example, the ECM to continue drawing its current or something else (which I believe you said in a post long ago according to the CAT engineer more on the order of 300ma).

All I can say is that because I assumed I would have a dead battery and need external help in order to start my CAT if I left it for over a week, I spent a lot of time fretting about it, when I needn't have done so.  I should have thought it out and wondered, why it would take a whole week, but I am not sure anyone has been posting the 2amp draw scenario until lately because that certainly would have indicated to me that a week's time would have been way more than could possibly have been expected for the batteries to remain charged, especially if a .3 volt lost is considered to be a dead battery. 

I am pretty sure my coach will start if the silverleaf is showing 11.7V but in reading the forum, it has been my understanding that while in storage, if you're not going to fully operate your coach, then you shouldn't start it up, so I haven't.  But next time over there, which will be another 11 days, I will be starting it since we're going to Pacific Shores, so I'll post the results including the voltage prior to start up.

Perhaps by now Walt has found out what actually did draw his battery down since I believe he did say he had flipped the battery disconnect in order to disconnect his battery.  If he found that it was indeed the ECM, I would suggest that a change was made by Beaver between my build year and his, and perhaps we can change the "SMC era" designation to "SMC millennial" or even, hey, remember this, "SMC Y2K".  :)

Thanks Ed,
Mike
PS - oh, on a 12V battery, 11.7V is a "discharged battery",  I agree, I was disagreeing when you said it is "essentially dead" at 11.7V before. :)

Rod Tomlinson

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Re: Chassis Batteries Discharging
« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2015, 01:52:03 PM »
1996 36' Beaver Monterey. First, this is a recently purchased motorhome. It is not plugged into a 110 source. After 3-4 days, the chassis batteries are at about 10-11. I have had the batteries checked and they are not the problem. (1) If I plug into a 110 source, how long would or should it take to charge up the batteries enough to start the engine?  (2) For my year and model, should I put a diesel battery kill switch in the battery compartment as discussed previously? (3) Will the battery kill switch eliminate any and all the drain on the chassis batteries?