General Boards > Technical Support
Pacbrake misbehaving. Help?
Joel Ashley:
I'm don't know what PacBrake's lube consists of, but I'm sure it's up to the task. I just prefer silicone for certain applications, and in this case it's recommended in the owner's manual. Silicone is sold as a gel in a squeeze tube, as well as a liquid in the spray can commonly and easily found at automotive and hardware stores. The small tube extension on the can allows precise placement of the fluid. The liquid carrier evaporates after use, leaving dry silicone lubricant in the joint or area of wear. Other lubes leave an oil residue which attracts dirt to the joint, expediting wear, so silicone is preferable to WD-40 and the like under a vehicle or in an engine compartment exposed to the road. I'm not aware of any harm to electrical wires or parts if silicone overspray contacts them.
Silicone is not a miracle lube, and certainly is not advised for applications where you are trying to penetrate and loosen corroded fasteners or help prevent rust - then petroleum-based products like WD-40 may be the appropriate choice. The Pacbrake lube may very well be silicone based, but if you can't find it easily, a standard spray can of silicone will do.
Nothing changed between your model year and ours, Bill. The steering wheel top blocks most of my idiot lights too, no matter where I position my seat or the wheel. A minor inconvenience, but still aggravating, especially if you miss a critical warning lamp.
-Joel
Bill Sprague:
--- Quote from: Joel Ashley ---Nothing changed between your model year and ours, Bill. The steering wheel top blocks most of my idiot lights too, no matter where I position my seat or the wheel. A minor inconvenience, but still aggravating, especially if you miss a critical warning lamp.
--- End quote ---
I've considered getting some 12v Radio Shack LEDs, wiring them in parallel to the idoit lights and placing them in the dash between the tach and the speedometer. I've been thinking about doing it for a couple of years, so I'll probably get to it real soon!
Larry and Heidi Lee:
Joel, the solenoid I refer to is an electromechanical device that upon electrical activation it mechanically "opens" to allow pressure to reach the air cylinder. If this solenoid seizes (like it did to me) your air cylinder will not operate at all. So...there are two moving systems that require attention when servicing. The solenoid and the air cylinder itself. I relocated my solenoid to the top of the engine for easy access.
Joel Ashley:
Thanks for the great idea and photo, Larry. Yes, I knew you were referring to the electrical side of things when you spoke of the solenoid, and I probably shouldn't have said it the way I did, "I don't know about a solenoid, ...". I just thought the information about the actuating cylinder lubrication would be beneficial, given the nature of the thread - exhaust brake failure at critical times. Admittedly, I haven't devoted much thought to the solenoid on my own coach, probably because, as you said, it's not readily accessible.
-Joel
Bill Sprague:
Update: I drove from the Seattle Area to Southeastern Idaho. That's about 12 hours of driving 800 miles in two days over two mountain ranges. The Pacbrake worked normally. There were none of the issues or confusion I wrote about in the original post. I have yet to do anything to the system, including lube. Maybe I'm lucky this time!
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