cabinet door veneer peeling

[william harrison]

 I noticed almost all my cabinet doors, bathroom door, fridge etc had veneer separation.  I tried using pliobond
to tack the veneer back down but next year the same thing occurred.  I found a solution using gorilla glue and a heat gun but the expansion of the gorilla glue made it a pain to remove the excess, so I wiped the edges with a cloth with olive oil on it and the
excess glue came off easily. The trick is to wait until the glue begins to set then heat the area with the gun and press down on the veneer with a damp cloth and repeat as necessary.  I am sure other lubricants would do the trick but I read that olive oil is good for your ldl cholesterol.

William (Chuck) Harrison
03 Marquis

[Lee Welbanks]

Bill,
I done a bunch of the doors last year and are doing some more now. I use a artists tiny paint brush and apply standard Elmers wood glue under and then clamp with a piece of plastic under so it will not stick in the glue. Gorilla does have a glue that does not expand.

[Edward Buker]

I had done this job a couple of times with a not so wonderful work experience. My last episode was far better with a cabinet maker and using her techniques. A pallet knife was indispensable and wax paper. Lee uses plastic wrap, probably either works well. The pallet knife is the only tool I know that can really get into the veneer cavity and spread the glue. The clamp and squeeze, then release, gets the excess out from the onset, and then reclamp. Info on getting a Pallet knife and photos here...

I never had much luck not making a mess with Gorilla glue in this kind of application. As long as you have a means to really work the glue in, Tightbond or equivalent works fine.

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,5010.msg37590.html#msg37590

Later, Ed

[David T. Richelderfer]

I used contact cement.  I went to the vet supply aisle at the local farm supply store to get a larger syringe with a larger diameter needle.  With the needle on the syringe I sucked up a little contact cement into the syringe and injected the cement deep into the gap between the veneer and backing, then finger-pressed and released several times to spread the cement around in the gap, wiped off the excess cement, if any, let the cement set-up for an hour or so, then clamped the veneer down tight for overnight.  I cemented the worst and obvious spots, and have more to do, but none that I have cemented have come loose after three years.  If I need to better spread the cement around after the finger-pressing, then I use a toothpick.

[Mike Humble]

William,
Did you clamp after heating and pressing several times or did it hold?
Mike

[william harrison]

 In all but 1 case it held.  The trick is to wait until the glue is very tacky- about 20 to 25 minutes depending on ambient temp.