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Coach Power Solenoid

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Mike And Mary Engen:
Currently in Williston, ND and no battery power, have to run generator/shore power.  Since I was previously a licensed industrial electrician and have coach schematics, did my own troubleshooting.  Batteries are good, but have 12.6 vdc on one side of "coach power solenoid" and 7.6 vdc on the other side and all the way to DC panel.  Have not pulled out solenoid yet as it is located above batteries and I currently at friends farm.

Trying to read small print on schematic, but it looks like it reads 200 amp.  We have a 95 Beaver and are wondering if they have this solenoid at NAPAs', is it special order, do rv dealers stock these, do big truck repair shops have them?  In other words, where do we acquire one and does anybody have the specs handy?

Thank you....Mike

Edward Buker:
Mike,

The replacement that I have in my 2002 marquis is a Trombetta 114-1211-010. It is rated at 225Amps continuous duty and 600amps inrush. !2V SPNO. I obtained this from Beaver Coach Sales because mine was defective when I bought the coach and they furnished the part. It is available at this website if they do not have one. Photo will provide insight if it will mount like your current solenoid. It is made in the USA which may mean better quality. PN24812 at website. approx $75. Beaver Coach sales are closer and good about getting the right parts out if they have it.

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

My original was a White Rogers made in Mexico. Photo here. Fail mode, it would click (activate) but no contact by voltmeter confirmation. If you enlarge it you will see PN but specs are not on the unit. Hope this helps.

Later Ed

Mike And Mary Engen:
Thanks Ed,
Once I get to Northfield,MN, I will pull and replace the relay.
Mike

Edward Buker:
Mike,

I had starting problems with my coach which is how I learned that my solenoid did not work. The 1.5 year old group 31 starting batteries were proving to be inadequate. When I bought the coach it had an offbeat brand name chassis batteries which I eventually replaced with some Napa Commercial group 31 batteries. I had a set of jumper cables in the car and just tied the chassis to house bank and started the coach...it will do in a pinch.

Later Ed

Bill Sprague:
If you are talking about the coach power solenoid that is controlled by the switch at the front door, you can "fix it for good".  Many think it is useless except to salesmen on busy lots.  I'm actually afraid mine will be accidentally shut off because the fridge is on that circuit.  If off, the food will rot and the ice cubes will melt.

I don't know how many coaches are like this, but I learned from Roy Mueller that it is typical on later models to use a "latching relay".  In other words, it is not continuous duty.  Momentary power to it switches it from off to on or back.  It does not use continuous power to hold it on.  

If you agree it is useless or want to get going with a simple repair, jumper the connectors.  The easiest way to do this is to put both of the primary wires onto the same lug.  It is probably wise to turn off battery power with the big master switch first.

On edit:  I found that it was a little difficult reaching one of the lugs for the large primary wires.  I decided to disable the switch by the door instead.  I pulled the screws but it was wedged in.  I didn't want to break it, so I put the screws back in.  I went back to the solenoid and removed one of the small wires, wrapped it in electrical tape and zip tied to something solid.  The switch no longer does anything!  The ice cubes will stay solid!  

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