General Boards > Technical Support
Coach Power Solenoid
Robert W Carlson:
Mike, we have a 96 Marquis and our solenoid has also failed. I called Bend Service Center and sent a picture trying to match it. If it is the same solenoid I have, it is unique in that it has four posts and they could not find a replacement. If your coach is wired like ours, it is very unique. When you turn the ignition key on, the solenoid connects all batteries. In our case, when the solenoid failed, while driving I would overcharge the house batteries and deplete the chassis battery and the alarm sounded. One large post is house battery, the other large is chassis battery. One small post is ignition, the other is ground. What I have done is ... On the solenoid I have connected the house and chassis batteries together and disconnected the ground wire. The big drawback is when you are self-contained. You will deplete all batteries and you could end up with a dead chassis battery. If self-contained, I disconnect the ground wire from the chassis battery. If you ever find a four post continuous duty solenoid, PLEASE let me know! The other solution is to rewire to the new configuration using a echo charger to keep the chassis battery charged. I did run across a Beaver owner who had their coach rewired and they had a fire and lost their coach, so I am hesitant to have this done. Bend is aware of the unique wiring and the rewiring solution and would probably be a safe bet. Hope this info helps you.
Bob Carlson
Gil_Johnson:
The referenced relay, Trombetta 114-1211-010, is a continuous duty cycle relay. The 3rd digit from the end is either 0 or 5, 5 for 50% duty cycle, http://www.trombetta.com/cm/pdfs/bear-family.pdf .
Bob, 4 terminals should be the norm. The only thing that might be unique is what drives the trigger; in your case the ignition being on. All should come on when the ignition is on. However, I could see a manufacturer adding sensing for voltage that might close the relay even if the ignition is off until the house voltage gets down to X voltage (enough to still start the engine). I could also see them being on any time house voltage was over 13.5V as a means to charge the engine battery.
Gil
Mike And Mary Engen:
Pulled the relay out this am and it is identical to the battery isolator relay. Found it on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200502902774
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=772&CategoryID=31
This specs out at 200 amp continuous and matches the original Beaver specs. Know I could
have spliced the two leads together, but trying to keep original.
Thanks to all!
Mike 8)
Robert W Carlson:
Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I'll try again to locate one and put mine back to original, which seems like the better way to go.
Bob Carlson
Mike And Mary Engen:
This is also a match:
White Rogers 200 Amp 12 Volt Relay
Continuous Duty Cycle
21.0 Ohm Coil Resistance
Gold Plated Contacts
Part # 586902B1
To change out, isolate batteries. More room if you pull out, but I covered with thick cardboard so I would not get battery acid or short out anything.
You will need a 1/2" socket for 12 volt battery cables, 3/8" for power (salesman's) switch cables and 7/16" for mounting bolts. On our 95 it was not
a latching relay, it is continuous and we have to have the power (salesman's) switch turned on for 12 volt and inverter power.
Mike
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