Heating Option in Cold Weather

[Randy Stephenson]

I am now a proud Beaver owner...August 2016 (1976 Dodge Travco.... 25 years).  I have a question regarding heating options.  While camped at Tiger Run outside Breckenridge, Colorado last September, I needed to use the diesel boiler option for the Aqua Hot system during the night time temperatures that ranged between 28 ~ 40 degrees.

At first I tried the electric boiler option, however, discovered this method would not keep up to temperatures demands.  Research indicated the electrical element was a bit underpowered in that year.  While camped in Michigan in November, I tried two 1,500-watt ceramic heaters.  Unfortunately, only 30 AMP was available, therefore, the outside breaker tripped (I think the only other demand was the refrigerator). Using one heater was not an issue.

 I noticed in the 2004 brochure specifications that there was a factory option for 110-volt baseboard heating.  Instead of using electrical space heaters, I have considered installing an additional electrical panel and running power to the front and rear of the coach.  I plan to camp in Colorado the month of March in 2017 while snowboarding, and would like to have supplemental heating methods.

Since the windshield is a major heat-loss area, I have investigated materials for insulting the windshield.  I plan to try using a clear double ply plastic material that is used in greenhouses and farm buildings.  I believe this will cut the heat loss down and help with the constant cycling of the blower fans.  If this idea proves fruitful, then I will make the same window coverings for the other coach windows.   

Has anyone had experience with using baseboard heaters (hardwired or plug in style), is it possible to add the larger element to Aqua Hot, or have you used other heating methods in place of an electrical space heater to supplement the Aqua Hot system?

Randy

[Keith Moffett]

Hi Randy and congrats on the coach.  A belated welcome to the Beaver family!

Most any hardware or building supply has a product made for insulation in plumbing and more.  It is basicaly just bubble wrap with foil on both sides.  You can get this in many sizes and use it for windshields etc.  The advantage is being able to roll it up to stow it.

Your Aqua Hot electric side is designed to heat water.  We use that to heat our coaches but I believe that to be almost an after thought.  I have not seen one that works well below about 40 deg.
I have often wondered about installing an additional furnace maybe propane but that is like a step backward. 
As far as baseboard heat I will leave that to others that are better qualified.

Some things that mignt help are 1) check slide , door and window seals for air leaks.  We have cold air entering around our driver window and it makes a serious difference.  2) Make sure the Aqua Hot is running well.  A clean burn chamber and aquastats that kick on and off at the right temps.  If the high limit switch is bad the AH wont reach the upper limit.  3)  make sure your hear registers are clean so the air flows through the little radiator  cleanly.
Some ideas might be to make sure to leave a vent just cracked open to allow moisture out.  Damp air is colder and cooking, showers or just breathing produces moisture.

Hope this helps a bit!

[Paul Meehan]

Is it possible to install heat strips in the roof AC units?  If so has anyone tried it?

[William Jordan]

You said the elect space heaters tripped your 30 amp breakers and I can assure you baseboard is a cleaner install but uses the same amount of electricity. If your paying for electric I would think the diesel burner would be your most economical and certainly most heat. Once you get below 30 I think even the higher estate aquahot  don't work as well. And would still exceed your 30 amp restriction.

[David T. Richelderfer]

This might be interesting reading.  There are several threads on related subjects.  I will keep looking and hope to add them to the list.  BTW, my three roof air conditioners double as heat pumps.

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,2156.msg15522.html#msg15522

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,3804.msg29265.html#msg29265

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,507.msg2762.html#msg2762

http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,1532.msg10696.html#msg10696

There are probably additional relevant threads, but these will give you some good reading.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Randy,
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything in your post about the diesel option of the Aqua Hot not efficiently heating the coach.
Steve

[Randy Stephenson]

Steve:

I used the diesel option, works well, however was concerned about the amount of fuel used, seems I have read it uses a about .5 gal an hour.   

[Randy Stephenson]

Thanks for all your feedback, lov'in the Beaver support!

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Randy,
The .5 gal/hr is correct but that is when the unit is running continuously. For it to run continuously you'd have to be in sub zero weather with the hot water running.  I've never measured it but would guess with outdoor temps in the 20F range you'd maybe burn a max  .25 gal / hr, assuming a 50% duty cycle.
Steve

[Jerry Emert]

Not ideal but you might consider running an extension cord out to the 20 amp receptacle in the pedestal for one of the space heaters.  Then you can run both heaters.  Personally I wouldn't worry about the diesel fuel to run the Hydro Hot or Aqua.  I like to be warm.
Have fun!
Jerry

[Gerald Farris]

Randy,
One thing that you did not consider is that by not running the AquaHot in subfreezing temperatures, you are not heating the basement areas adequately, and therefore you run the risk of some very expensive freeze damage.

You will find that running the AquaHot is a far superior method of heating the coach in subfreezing temperatures, does not burn that much fuel, and it is the only practical way to prevent freeze damage to basement components including the AquaHot itself.

Gerald     

[Randy Stephenson]

Gerald, thank you.  Great point about the basement heat.