Rear drivers slide not working

[Robert Wagner]

Lots of rain slides were all in. Went to put rear slide out heard a slight pop and then slide would not move.  There is power as I hear motor running. It's just not moving slide. Taking cover off shaft is off gear. Hammered back into place. Working now. Thanks to all. I hope that fixed it😬

[Jerry Emert]

Robert, I have a 20 car type fuse in the fuse box in the bedroom closet that has blown before.  It says it's a 15 amp on the label.  Someone before me obviously figured out that it needs the 20.  I hope it's that easy for you.  That fuse box is a ...Bear... to get at with the slide in though.  Hope you are flexible!  Some other issues with the electric motor and switches in the past you can find with a search.  Good luck.
Jerry

[Michael Rump]

Robert,
If it like mine, it used to cluck and I discovered the shaft was bent on the gear box which drives the slide.  It was connected with a chain which may have slipped, etc.
Good luck.

[Jerald Cate]

That fuse box is a ...Bear... to get at with the slide in though.

I carry a homemade jumper cable I made up just for this problem.  I took a long extension cord put alligator clips on one end and spade lugs on the other.  Now when my bedroom slide won't open I can go directly to the motor throw the jumper cable out the window and get power directly from the batteries.  I've only had to use it once and it works like a champ.  You just have to be careful as your dealing with a lot of current.  To reverse direction just reverse the leads on one end.  To make it safer to operate you could put a fuse and switch in-line.

Bruce

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Bruce,
Sounds like you've got high resistance in the 12v path. The motor brake won't operate on less than 12v. Suggest you check connections from switch to motor brake. Switch pigtail connections can be very problematic. Next time it occurs, try moving the wires at switch. If it starts working the connections there are faulty. Clean / re-crimp, etc.
Steve