Electrical issues

[Lawrence Tarnoff]

On our spring shakedown trip last week, several electrical issues cropped up.  We had just had the coach in to the Cummings shop for the annual oil/filters/lube/etc.  Inspection revealed the house batteries needed replacement and we OK'd the work.

We use a Progressive surge protector and when we plugged in at the campsite there were no problems indicated.  However, the GFCI outlets were tripped and would not reset.  I elected to remove the surge protector and was able to reset the outlets.  They worked fine for ungrounded stuff, but would trip when a grounded appliance was used.

Also, when starting the coach on several occasions the ignition failed to engage.  No dash lights, no crank.  It took three or four attempts to get the expected response.

Any ideas??

Thanks,

Larry

[Gerald Farris]

Larry,
I am not sure what your 120V issue is, but there is a 90% chance that your starting issue is caused by the ignition solenoid located in your LF electrical bay.

Gerald

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Larry,
If everything works OK when you are using generator power, I suspect your AC issue is either due to a park pedestal problem or your surge protector. My vote would be for a park power problem. I always check the pedestal with the item shown in the attachment prior to hooking up as it will tell you if there are any wiring problems.
Steve

[Edward Buker]

Larry,

Gerald's bringing up the solenoid as being the likely root cause of the ignition issue is right on 95% the time. The solenoids are inexpensive enough and easy to change out and it is good prevention anyway.

If that does not cure the issue check and see if your starting batteries are weak and the voltage is low, that can also cause that fault by having low voltage at the buss in the front electrical bay. You would likely notice slow cranking or cranking and not firing along with that ignition issue if the batteries were weak. Given you just replaced them I would think that would be ruled out but you could end up with a bad one with a build defect.

The other culprit that is less likely is the contacts in the key switch itself. If the solenoid replacement does not fix your ignition issue look there next.

Later Ed

[Lawrence Tarnoff]

Report 1: coach receptacles worked fine on the generator so one problem solved.  On to the ignition and Hydrohot tomorrow.  Thanks for the good advice guys!

[Joel Ashley]

As Steve and Gerald note, your symptoms are very suggestive of the often troublesome solenoid in the electrical bay.  Yours may not look precisely like ours, Larry, but it may provide some reference.  Some have replaced theirs with electronic versions that are more stable and reliable, or at least carry a spare solenoid.

Be sure to disconnect the chassis batteries at least before messing with the solenoid;  an inadvertant metal wrench maneuver could spark and/or zap something you don't need zapped  .

-Joel

[Roger Rempe]

As Steve and Gerald note, your symptoms are very suggestive of the often troublesome solenoid in the electrical bay.  Yours may not look precisely like ours, Larry, but it may provide some reference.  Some have replaced theirs with electronic versions that are more stable and reliable, or at least carry a spare solenoid.

Be sure to disconnect the chassis batteries at least before messing with the solenoid;  an inadvertant metal wrench maneuver could spark and/or zap something you don't need zapped  .

-Joel

That's the one that got me. Dead in the water at a Flying J pump. Now I carry a spare...it's cheap insurance. Thanks again to Gerald for walking me through that!

[Lawrence Tarnoff]

Thanks, Joel.  Can I assume that the solenoid is the silver cylinder at the bottom center of the pix? 

[David T. Richelderfer]

Yup, that's it.

[darell ottoson]

   I carry in that electrical compartment a short (about 6 inch ) 10 AWG jumper with crimp on connectors on both ends with 1/4 " rings. In an emergency you can jumper the two copper busses where the large red wires from this solenoid are connected. That duplicates what the solenoid does when it is energized. The jumper should be removed if the motorhome is left alone for any length of time. THIS IS NOT A PERMANENT FIX! It will however safely get you to help and / or a safe place.
    Those solenoids can be bought at any auto parts store. They are typically used as starter solenoids  As stated by others exercise caution when disconnecting and reconnecting this solenoid. If a metal wrench in your hand contacts the wrong wire and ground (Chassis) at the same time, the current is enough to burn you severely. I recommend wrapping electrical tape on all surfaces of the tools used, except where it has to be bare to remove the nuts.  Also a little tape on the wire ends as you remove them will prevent accidently touching them to ground. I usually prepare enough lengths of tape before I start and have them readily available. Sorry if this is too long winded but hope I explained the process clearly

[darell ottoson]

   I missed where Joel recommended disconnecting the batteries. This is a great suggestion. I also recommend the precautions I mentioned even with batteries disconnected.  Good luck Otto

[Joe Rhea]

One thing that has not been mentioned is the solenoid is for continuous duty. The typical automotive are not continuous duty. The idea of a jumper was very good I think.
Joe