Instrument Lights, Tail Lights, Marker Lights Inop - FIXED

[Paul Bowers]

I have read several post on this subject in the forum, but so far I am still having a problem identifying where my Marker Lights, Tail Lights and Instrument Lights relays or fuses are on the coach.  Currently, the Tail Lights, Instrument Lights, and Marker Lights are inop.  Brake Lights, Flashers, Driving Lights, Headlights, Turn Signals all working.  I have a 2001 Beaver Monterey 30 with a CAT 3126B engine and Magnum Chassis.

I searched the Owners Manual, Supplemental and Appendix for the Coach with no success. 

In the Electrical Bay, there are 5 relays on the left of the panel which are:
Parking Lights
Slide-Out
Condenser Fan
Cruise Control
Air Dump

There are 4 relays in the bottom right of the panel:
ABS Pump
Endurance Brake
ABS Retarder
Brake Lights

There is a wire on the terminal block that is labeled instrument panel...but no automotive type fuses in the electrical bay.  In fact, I can't find anywhere associated with the chassis.

There are 4 relays under the Dash on a block that is not attached to the wall, just free floating, with no labeling as to what they are.  There is also no place where it looks like they were previously attached that might have a label attached for identification.  None of the manual supplied with the coach mention these 4 relays.

Does anyone have any information on these four unidentified relays? Or, where else to look for fuses?

Thanks in advance.

[Keith Moffett]

Paul
Two ideas,
1)  In autos I have had the headlight switch fail with similar results.  In that case it was a bad connector on the plug for the switch.

2)  In our 98 patriot the turn, marker and tail lights went out suddenly.  A shop traced the white wire marked 'Park Light' to the small round matrix plug at the point where the wire bundle passes through the back of the electric bay.  One pin in this plug had to be jumpered around.

I would look at replacing the headlight switch just because if it is original then it cant hurt. 
Hope this helps

[Paul Bowers]

Keith,

Thanks for the information. I will check these two areas out tomorrow.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Paul,
Check to see that you have voltage on the Parking Light CB (I think it is #70) and try switching out the parking light relay.
Steve

[Paul Bowers]

Thanks...

[Jim Nichols]

I agree with Steve . You need 12v in and out of the metal self resetting fuses.  If your electrical cord from coach to car is shorting to ground the metal cased fuse will keep resetting until it can't . You may have spares that are not being used in the bay just match amperage if you replace. Remove the cord from the coach and car and check continuity at both ends for each wire. Wouldn't it be nice if that is all it is, but I've had some head scratching of my own.

[Paul Bowers]

Update...

1.  Changed the Parking Brake Relay...no change
2.  Light Switch...with the Headlights and parking lights working when the switch is pulled on and the interior lights work when rotated to full left, switch appears to be operative.
3.  Haven't towed a toad in several years, so cord from coach to car is not a problem.
4.  Ordered a new 12v 15a resetable fuse (only 20a in town) to replace the current Inst. Panel fuse.
5. 4 Relays under the dash mentioned in original post appear to be part of the radio, amplifier and entertainment wiring.

If new fuse does not fix the problem...it's off the the RV repair shop as they have equipment for tracing wires that I do not have.

Thanks everyone.

pb

[Paul Bowers]

Well, the new fuse did not fix the problem.

I looked back on my post and I mistakenly said my parking lights came on when the light switch was pulled.  That is not the case.  Only the headlights work, not parking lights. Although the turn signals do work, so the bulbs are good.

So, I will try and replace the switch and then to the RV shop.  Started pulling the switch this morning, but the switch has a metal piece the plastic knob slide on to and can't get it off in order to pull the switch.  May have to take it to the shop as is if I can't get it pulled.

pb

[Paul Bowers]

Found the shaft release button on the switch.  Switch removed...now to find a replacement...it looks like a GM switch.

[Paul Bowers]

Relay replaced, Fuse replaced, Headlight Switch replaced, still no Parking Lights, Marker Lights,Tail Lights or  Instrument Lights...off to the RV shop.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

pb

[Paul Bowers]

UPDATE:  After crawling around all over the coach and checking every connector I could find.  I think I finally found the problem.

In the Electrical Bay, there are several 24 pin connectors that connects to the coach wiring.  After pulling them apart, I noticed bits of green corrosion around several of the connectors.  I found 5 of the pins to be loose or broken due to the corrosion.  Since each wire is marked, I traced the broken pin wires and the problem with my lights appears to be a broken pin.  My ABS light problem could be a pin as one of the broken pins was for the ABS system. 

I am in the process of trying to find a connector pin removal and installation tool to repair to factory standards.  If not, I plan to jump around the connector and hook the wired together with heavy duty blade connector. 

Does anyone has any information as to the manufacturer of a pin removal and installation tool for the Beaver coach connectors?

Again, thanks for everyone's help.



 

[Joel Ashley]

Paul, check Jonard's site, and the video under connector tools/extraction kits.
https://www.jonard.com/en/Videos.aspx?pc=%7B645E6023-5FE5-446E-BBC1-75EBD0BD47AC%7D#myvideos

There are kits and individual tools available thru Amazon, but most aren't particularly inexpensive.  Go to Amazon via BAC's link, then enter "Jonard connector kit".

Joel

[Paul Bowers]

Joel

Thanks

[Joel Ashley]

A few years back I found some corrosion in a couple of my connectors, but it wasn't as severe as yours in spite of the electric bay enduring regular inundation from a windshield seal leak above.  After cleaning the corrosion, I reassembled using a touch of bulb grease on the connectors.  I've also used Corrosion-X on exposed connections and metal fasteners especially in that bay where moisture vapor has been an issue.  Thanks to Ed Buker here and my brother for that suggestion.

Joel

[Paul Bowers]

Joel,

The connectors have all been cleaned, protected and put back together.  I decided to jump the connectors on the 5 wire pairs instead of spending $300 for the tools to remove and re-install the pins.  Used waterproof connectors to help keep moisture out of the splices and hopefully keep this problem from happening again.

End result...All problems with Instrument Light, Tail Lights and Marker Lights are now fixed.  The ABS light that was believed to have been a problem with the ABS system was, in fact, a broken pin in the connector.  ABS light now extinguished and working properly.

The A/C had not been working properly...the pin to the Condenser Fan and Switch were broken...now fixed and working. 

All in all...a very good day.