How do I access the rollers and slide mechanism on the RR slide out?

[Mike Shumack]

My rear slide out on the passenger side makes a screeching sound going in and out. I would like to look at the rollers and slide mechanism, and possibly lubricate the rollers, but can't figure out how to get access.

On my 2005 Beaver Patriot, the RR slide out is the slide out with "dresser drawers" in the bedroom (the LR slide out is the bed).

Removing the lower dresser drawers, there is just carpeting under it (and a 120V junction box). It looks like I need to get under the carpeting but I don't want to cut it up if that is the wrong way to access the rollers.

The dresser is mounted on a sort of "platform" that is about 4 or 6 inches high. I am assuming the rollers and slide mechanism is inside that platform. I think Beaver built the platform to cover the slide/rollers then carpeted over it, then set the dresser on top.

The bottom of the slide is just solid and there is nothing to see under the coach at the frame that I can see. So it must be serviced from the inside.

Has anyone done this - or does anyone have a manual on this slide.

PS. I also posted this question on the irv2 forum. Hopefully someone has the answer.

[Neal E Weinmann]

Removing the wide vertical wood trim boards on each end of the woodwork will expose the mechanism and the items that need lubrication.

[Lee Welbanks]

Mike, The vertical trim boards are held in place with velcro and come off pretty easy. Amazing how much is held on by velcro.

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Mike,
I have the same model and year and there are 2 screws in each vertical trim board.  There may be  Velcro behind them, as there is behind the horizontal board at the top.  It is tight, but you can see the mechanism when those are off.  To check the rollers, I had to raise the slide from the outside and work over the seal to access the roller.  There was only one on mine, but I have added two, one at each end.  If the roller covering (rubber) is stretched, take the roller out (mechanism operates like toilet paper holder where one end compresses into the center).  Replace the rubber with 1 1/4" PVC pipe pressed onto the roller.  Much cheaper and more efficient than the rubber which means you have to buy a new roller.  You need skinny arms and a very large screwdriver lever to do this.  Others have taken the slide out, but very hard to do.
Roy Warren

[Keith Moffett]

Roy
Is yours the HWH mechanism with the folding arms on the sides?
Also, how did you lift the slide? 

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

It was lifted from the outside with a platform and jack.  Raised about 2 to 3 inches which allowed mechanic to get hands and arms under slide to reach rollers.  Yes for the side mechanism.
Roy

[Mike Shumack]

Thanks for all the info. I'll be digging into this project over the weekend.

If I need to replace the rollers, will the slide just lift up the 2 or 3 inches you mention while it is still partially inside the opening and still connected to everything? - or does it need to come out completely clear of the body then lift up. It doesn't look like there is much space above the slide out but 3 inches seems possible.

How much do you think that slide out weighs?
I have a subcompact tractor with pallet forks, but the max load at the tips of the forks is only 800 lbs. I also have a 2 ton floor jack but that would require building some sort of A-frame supporting structure and all the lifting would be done at one center point rather than spread across the width of the forks.

I guess I'll see what I have to deal with this weekend - hopefully just some lubrication will be all she needs but it good to know that the rollers can be changed without too much trouble if needed.

[Neal E Weinmann]

FWIW, All my squealing and squeaking was quieted by lubricating the vertical mechanisms inside, behind the trim.

[Mike Shumack]

That's what I'm hoping Neal.
What did you use to lubricate the mechanism with? I have Silicone spray, some spray lube that resembles a motorcycle chain lube (sticky grease like), and some spray "white lithium grease". Will any of these work - or should I get something else?

[Neal E Weinmann]

I used a dry lube with PTFE made by WD-40. Black can with a nesting yellow top with a integrated spray tube to get the lubricant into tight spots.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Boeshield T9 would also work well.
Steve

[Mike Shumack]

I have access to the mechanism now and I downloaded the HWH Parts and Adjustment manuals. I have the Spacemaker "Lateral Arm with Torsion Tube (LA/TT)" with synchronizing cylinder.
Thanks for getting me this far.

I don't see anything on the HWH site showing the rollers. Is that a Beaver/Monaco part? Does anyone have documentation or photos of how the rollers attach (or part numbers) and where they are located?

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Mike,
Slide was all the way extended and it just tilted up.  I would think your fork lift would work.  Be careful to not raise too much as inside you don't want to damage the floor under the drawers.
Roy Warren

[Mike Shumack]

To update this thread... I did not need to do anything with the bottom rollers. Just lubricating the rollers on the slide arm mechanism (specifically the upper left) removed all the squealing noise.
I'm glad it wasn't anything more.

Thanks for all the help.

[Stan Simpson]

Boeshield T9 would also work well.
Steve

You suggested Boeshield T9 as a lubricant for slide outs. Here are pictures of what I can see on my slides. The two living room slides have a bar in the middle, and two slotted tracks of some sort. The two bedroom slides are completely enclosed on the bottom, except for the middle which has a bar like the ones in the living room slides. I know they operate on a scissor mechanism which is visible in the bedroom while the slides are closed.

What, exactly do you lubricate? The bars? The tracks? The connector where the bar disappears in to the wall of the coach? All of the above?

Any help would be appreciated.

Stan