Problem with sliding door for bathroom- 1990 Contessa

[Shelly Sperling]

Does anyone have a method or strategy to fix the interior sliding door on my 1990 Contessa.  I think the track has some type of "bend" that causes the roller to go off track. I can't figure out how to replace the track considering that it's pretty narrow in the area the door goes into.  I would appreciate a good solution   I would like to know before we head out to see ya all in Colorado


Thx
Shelly Sperling
1990 Contessa
Charlotte, NC

[Joel Ashley]

As I recall, I had to remove the trim boards on either side of the top in order to adequately access the mechanism.  A solid step stool helps.  Gently sneak a knife blade under the wood plugs in the trim and pop them off so you can remove the trim retaining screws.  Many coaches use square-drive screws, so have 2 sizes of square-drive drivers or bits on hand.  A strong penlight helps so you can see what’s going on with the rail and door hangers. 

I think one issue with ours was a loose screw or two holding the track to the ceiling;  the screw was snagging the mechanism as it tried to pass, knocking it off the rail.   It’s been too many years, but I probably either used a longer or wider screw, moved the screw downrail to where it could grab better, or used glue or locktite in the old screwhole.

Joel

[Fred Brooks]

   Hi Shelly,
Unfortunately they install these pocket door tracks as they put in bulkheads and cabinets before they install the walls in production. If you remove the trim that Joel is talking about, you should be able to slide the door into a position where you can unlock the door from the trolleys. If you cannot re-install the track back into the header because it is too narrow an opening to get your arm in, here is what I do. Measure the depth of the pocket opening. Usually there is at least 1" gap between the wall and the pocket door when stowed. Measure and cut a 1 by 2 pine cleat long enough to push back into the opening and trap the track tight up against the ceiling. Before installing, put some RTV silicone along the edge of the cleat so when you push it into location it will stick to the wall after curing. Re-install the pocket door and adjust the trolleys height screw with a 3/8 wrench so when the door is used it will close perpendicular to the adjacent wall or cabinet face.
Hope this helps, Blessings....Fred Brooks

[Joel Ashley]

I may be mistaken here, but vague memory supplies an image similar to the one at this link
https://www.campingworld.com/sliding-door-hanger

The wardrobe doors may be like that also.  Swinging the lever open on the hanger allows the trolley bolt to slide out and the door with it.   As I recall you can adjust and level the door if needed by turning the bolts up or down in the trolley, in case the leading door edge doesn’t close flush to to its jamb or the door just looks out of kilter.  When replacing the bolt make sure the lever is firmly secured back around it;  if it pops off from a road bump, the door can slip off one hanger and jam inside it’s wall enclosure, where it’s a bugger to get out... been there.

https://www.campingworld.com/sliding-door-wheel-and-hanger?rrec=true

Joel