Author Topic: aluminum wheels  (Read 2459 times)

rick Kirchner

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aluminum wheels
« on: October 09, 2018, 07:04:48 AM »
I have a great quote on some Toyo M154s, and at that price I can turn the savings into some new alcoa-style wheels.  Tried Visione RV, but their used prices were $100 more than new. 

My question is, other than 22.5x 8.25, hub-center, are there any nuances I need to look out for in getting the proper fitment?  I figure offset is likely standard for these things.

Mike Shumack

  • Guest
Re: aluminum wheels
« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2018, 01:15:19 PM »
I did some research on this when I was thinking about buying a spare wheel/tire.
There are a lot of factors to take into account.

Hub piloted
Rim size -- you already know this (22.5).
Rim width -- (8.25 is typical, 9.00 if you want to run the 315/80R22.5 tires as I have on my front axle).
Number of Studs -- 10
Stud diameter -- 26mm
Bolt circle -- 285.75mm or 335mm (measure your current hub size)
Bore -- 220 mm
Position -- All, Front, Rear, trailer
Offset, Outset (i.e. 6.60"), Inset (i.e. 5.79"),  -- (measure your current wheels).
Polished -- one side, or both sides. (and protective coating or not: Durabright, AccuShiled, etc.)
Load factor -- 7400 @ 130psi

Also, if you are replacing steel wheel with aluminum you will need to install longer wheel studs.
https://buytruckwheels.com/collections/twenty-two-half

« Last Edit: October 09, 2018, 01:29:07 PM by Mike Shumack »

Gerald Farris

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Re: aluminum wheels
« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2018, 03:01:42 PM »
Rick,
I think that your 1999 Monterey uses a different wheel design than the ones used on Mike's 2005 model. I believe that all of the 99 models used lug piloted wheels. Also if you use all six aluminum wheels, you need to be sure that your rear lug bolts are long enough for the thicker aluminum wheels, but if you use steel inner wheels like the factory did, since you have Bud nuts there should not be a problem. If you reuse your rear inner wheel, make sure that the rears have enough offset to allow clearance between the rear tires. When you research your new wheels, the rear clearance should be listed.

Gerald

Mike Shumack

  • Guest
Re: aluminum wheels
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2018, 04:57:06 PM »
Also, it was recommended to use a plastic spacer between dissimilar wheel types (metal wheel and/or drum against aluminum wheel) to prevent corrosion.
https://www.finditparts.com/products/7528895/accuride-590-3?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K7528895-L369&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8YXXBRDXARIsAMzsQuXZFX3_dcFj5qwXgp_uIMs_FNajq1yOzHGSkI_NpmT87HqkGe-nfloaAtxPEALw_wcB

rick Kirchner

  • Guest
Re: aluminum wheels
« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2018, 08:42:17 PM »
Well the good thing about wheels for dualies is you can measure and calculate offset with a simple measurement from the outside of a front and rear wheel - no need to crawl underneath and try to get the inside measurement.  One of the companies has a very detailed drawing on their e-bay site so that should make it easy to match up. 

Gerald's post got me out for a closer look.  The fronts definitely use the hub as a pilot, but the holes for the nuts are tapered as in a lug piloted design.  In the rear there are budd nuts and are not a piloted design.  There are different budd nuts for two steel rims, a steel/aluminum combination, and two aluminum rims. 

Of course now there's the issue of all the different options for hub covers.  Gotta admit, keeping the steel wheels and ditching the simulators for big moon discs or aero discs is pretty attractive - that's a look you won't see elsewhere!  unfortunately it makes checking pressures really tough.