Need roller for slideout - where to buy?

[Mike Shumack]

I noticed that I have a minor leak on one of the hydraulic cylinders for my front curbside slideout (HWH X-Slide AP27707).

Also notices the rubber outer shell on the guide roller is coming off.
Where can I get a replacement roller (besides BCS)?

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Mike,
If the roller still works, i.e., rolls, you can replace the rubber with 1 1/4" PVC.  Press it onto the roller and you have a new roller which is better than the rubber coated roller.  I have replaced all of my rollers with this method which was given to me by Roy Mueller.  Good luck.
Roy Warren

[Mike Shumack]

Thanks for the tip Roy.
I don't know how well the guide roller "rolls" - I have not taken it apart, but I'm not aware of any noises or issues with it. I noticed the problem while investigating a small hyd leak at the slideout.

I hate to take things apart and not have the parts at hand to reassemble. But that may be the best choice now.

Now I just need to figure out how to lift room a little so I can get that roller out.

[Mike Shumack]

Beaver Coach Sales has the replacement rollers (front curbside slide out) - it's part number BCS617C5 around $28.75 +shipping.

I decided to get one now (before disassembly) and have ready to install so I can reassemble everything while the process is still fresh in my head - then I'll see if the current roller can be repaired (pvc sleeve?) for future use.
Thanks.

[Paul Meehan]

Mike,
Have you determined a strategy to "lift room a little so I can get that roller out?"

[Mike Shumack]

Yes,
 I have a "Porto Power" that has a hydraulic "wedge". I will put some wood (3/4 x 6" x 12" plywood strips) down as needed (under and over that wedge to spread the load) then lift the slide an inch or so to get weight off roller.

At least that's the plan floating around in my head right now.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Mike,
A hydraulic (auto style) or farm (High Lift) jack will also work. Just be sure to place a 2x6 wood plate under the slide to spread the load. A 4x4 works well to interface the hydraulic jack with the wood plate.
Steve

[Mike Shumack]

I go the new slideout guide Roller from BCS. I wasn't sure if I was getting the entire assembly or just the roller for $28. Well, it's just the roller part.

How do I go about replacing it while reusing the roller bracket? 

I thought the ends of the roller (the hex-shaped shaft) would unscrew and then I could just put the new roller in place and reinstall the shaft, but that's not the way this is built. The hex shaped shaft does not come out of the roller.

I assume then, that one end must come off of the roller bracket, although I can't get enough look at the bracket to be sure. I tried to remove the screws holding one end of the roller bracket. Thay are really tight. So before going any further, I just want to check with you and confirm how this is assembled (how to replace the roller in the roller bracket).

[Mike Shumack]

Replaced roller - but I had to bend a tab on the roller bracket tpo get roller out, which didn't seem proper. I could not jack slideout up high enough for roller to lift out of its bracket. so I bent the tab (in the photo) to get enough clearance to remove the roller. I installed the new roller and bent the tab back into place. I curious as to what BCS would have done. Are there instructions on this anywhere?

I also discovered that the center "hex shaped" shaft in the roller is spring loaded, so you can push in one end and it will clear the bracket (the other side of shaft is not spring loaded) however even with the shaft pushed in all the way i still could not get the roller out without bending that tab.

[Stan Simpson]

Did it solve the problem?

[Mike Shumack]

There really wasn't a problem. While inspecting (based on reports of this "spa" hose cracking) the flexible drain hose for kitchen sink and dishwasher, I noticed the outer covering on the roller was coming off - so I thought it would be a good idea to replace the roller while I had the corner cabinet removed. But the roller was turning fine, and for the small number of times that I run the slide in and out, it probably would have been fine.
It's done now.

Now I noticed a small slow drip from the hot water PEX to flexible hose coupling for the kitchen sink. So I'm going to disassemble that fitting and see if there is a sealing (cone) washer in there. I suppose if one looks hard enough at their coach they can always find something to fix.

i found a tag on the hose, it is made by "Midtec Inc.", it's called "Easyriser Potable Water Supply Riser", "1/2" FIP Straight swivel". However after hours of searching for this seal/gasket, I have not come close to finding anything like it (or anything that looks like it would fit). Apparently Midtec has been out of business for a while. I may end up just replacing the entire flexible hose (hopefully the other end of it is not too buried).

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Mike,
I would replace the cover on the roller while you can get to it.  In an earlier post, I explained the procedure and I think you will most happy with the repair.
Roy Warren

[Mike Shumack]

I bought two new rollers from BCS. I didn't want to try using a new material (PVC) on the roller unless I had to. Since the rollers are still available I just replaced it with new.
I did manage to install the new roller.
I'll hang onto the old roller and do the PVC trick on it if I ever need to use it somewhere. Thanks.