water bay modification

[Rick Daniels]

I am tired of dealing with the failure prone water bay zone shut off system behind the stainless steel, difficult to remove, panel in the water bay. Servicing behind the panel on the water system and grey and black tank dump valves becomes a nightmare and minor leaks can go undetected for some time. Over time, minor drips have occurred from the individual shut off valves and have saturated the flooring long before leaks can be detected from the outside.  Now the water bay floor is compromised.  I am considering a total remake of the the zone shut off system using a hot/cold water manifold similar to the attached photo(s).  These manifolds are commonly used in residential and commercial buildings for delivery of potable water.  In so doing I would have the manifold completely behind a modified stainless steel panel that would allow access to the zone control  through a easily removable panel. I will lose the fancy gold knobs (which no one except me sees).  I am not an RV plumbing expert so the question is; Is there a reason why Beaver uses the octopus style manifold which appears to be assembled using multiple spare parts instead of a manifold system in and of itself?

[Mike Shumack]

I would guess that Beaver used the manifold that was best for the application and lowest cost to them.

The top picture looks like the "Viega" Manifold https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-49142-3-8-14-Port-Zero-Lead-PEX-Press-Polymer-MANABLOC-6-hot-8-cold

- the other manifold with the brass valves is probably going to be more expensive. How often would you be working the valves?

[Rick Daniels]

I seldom use the valves, except the low point drains or if I need to service a faucet in the coach.  I am certain the age of my coach is an issue.  Age takes its toll. Minor drip leaks appear in one or more of the thirty six plus screw together joints with pressure washers in the manifold alone. Because the pieced together manifold used is screwed to the back side of the lack of easy access panel,  it goes undetected until I notice water dripping from below the bay. By then, the floor of the bay is saturated and has soaked through to the nearby bay on some occasions.  Again, what I have now is not a manufactured manifold.  It is a series of elbows, nipples, connectors and valves threaded together.  If it would be easier to get at the existing so called manifold to inspect or service on a regular basis I would avoid this project.  Just removing the stainless steel panel to get behind it with something more than a small hand and arm is a job, then putting a tool in your hand to fix something you cant see is next to impossible.  I might be trying to re-invent the wheel but water damage to the bay floor which also supports the black and grey tanks doesn't seem like a good plan.

[Carl Boger]

I just modified mine using 2 brass manifolds with a closed end I bought at Lowes.  I used Pex connectors and screwed the cut off valves to the back of the panel with wood and a metal strip.  I also hinged the panel and then used 1/2 inch screw on connectors to connect the pex to the rest of the plumbing.  Sorry didn't take any pictures!  I put it under 30 lbs of air pressure and it held that pressure for over a week until I released it.  I also made the bottom two cut off valves dump the water out the holes in the bottom of the floor.  I have to agree that the screw together manifold left a lot to be desired.  I have used the brass pex ones in homes for several years and have had Zero problems.  I Hope this holds true for my MH , I guess time will tell