slide going too far inside the wall? Revisited.

[Dwight Lakusta]

I don’t think it has those lock arms at the back. If you look in the pictures. It’s tipping too far into the wall on the top....the paint lines and bottom line up, but it’s tipping too far in.  I was thinking about shimming up the cabinets inside with a piece of wood and carpet on the wood, that would slide along the floor tiles.....if I lift the slide from the inside once slid in, it lines up...

[Mike Shumack]

Hi Dwight,

I did recognize the problem of the top tipping in too far. And since the paint lines match up, adjusting the rollers won't help since they are on the front of the slideout.

It may be possible to adjust the beams/arms that support the slideout so they angle upward more at the rear ( i don't know how these support beams are attached at the frame) which would tilt the top of slide outward more. I think this would keep the paint lines aligned when the slide is all the way in and just tilt the top of the slide outwards. But I'm not sure that is the best thing to do right now.

I would not adjust cabinets or such, to compensate for the tilt without fully understanding what is going on.

I think you would only be masking the problem - and the problem may be something serious that you need to figure out (like a cracked weld on a beam/arm causing it to sag).

Have you had a chance to get under the slideout and carefully inspect all of the support beams and where they attach to the frame?

I'm out of ideas - can you call PowerGear/Lippert and ask them what model slideout you have and for some drawings to help troubleshoot?

[Mike Shumack]

I looked at my Slideout room setup, and I see now that the slideout has a lip or edge around it so when the Slide out room is full retracted (all the way in) that edge stops against a solid metal strip that runs around the perimeter. In the case of my 2005 it is not possible for the slide to go in further than flush unless that metal strip has come off. The metal stop strip looks to be screwed to the sides of the coach walls (not sure about the top edge, but I assume it is the same).

I'm not sure if 2003 is built the same way. If it is, then I would expect to find the metal stop strip (attached to the coach wall) has come loose.

[Dwight Lakusta]

Maybe that metal strip has come loose?..... That would make sense!, I will be back next Wednesday to the coach, and will have to look...

[Dwight Lakusta]

Hi Dwight,

I did recognize the problem of the top tipping in too far. And since the paint lines match up, adjusting the rollers won't help since they are on the front of the slideout.

It may be possible to adjust the beams/arms that support the slideout so they angle upward more at the rear ( i don't know how these support beams are attached at the frame) which would tilt the top of slide outward more. I think this would keep the paint lines aligned when the slide is all the way in and just tilt the top of the slide outwards. But I'm not sure that is the best thing to do right now.

I would not adjust cabinets or such, to compensate for the tilt without fully understanding what is going on.

I think you would only be masking the problem - and the problem may be something serious that you need to figure out (like a cracked weld on a beam/arm causing it to sag).

Have you had a chance to get under the slideout and carefully inspect all of the support beams and where they attach to the frame?

I'm out of ideas - can you call PowerGear/Lippert and ask them what model slideout you have and for some drawings to help troubleshoot?

I will also carefully inspect everything.  I will keep you posted and thank you for your help and time thats for sure!

[Dwight Lakusta]

Well I finally got some time to look at my coach. I have to get this post back to life , and I need to get on this problem.  Had anyone ever had an issue similar?  All the rollers are intact. They have no flat spots. Has anyone ever worked on the lippert slide rail systems?  I don’t know where to start, and the best part... nobody knows anything in my area. Not a single dealer.  Beaver coach sales said they could look at it, but I’m not planning on going that way anytime soon and spending 20K.

I can’t see any adjustment at all on the rails.

[William Jordan]

As I originally said My 03 Ruby has the same issue on the kitchen slide Elite looked at it a year or so ago and couldn’t do much. I honestly believe it is pushing past the stop or the stop doesn’t exist anymore. The part that’s the problem is behind the microwave cabinet and I see no way to access the interior wall corner from the inside. The good news is it hasn’t changed much in all that time and a hundred or more opens and closes. I’m going back to elite in a few months and will discuss again but I’m not hopeful. Perhaps a piece of metal added to the inside edge of the slide wall rim to “catch” on the seal edge.

[Dwight Lakusta]

I see the issue you speak of.  I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?

[Mike Shumack]

Has anyone ever worked on the lippert slide rail systems?
I can’t see any adjustment at all on the rails.

Are you sure it is a "Lippert" slide system? I though they were all HWH slides for these early years. Do you have the single hydraulic cylinder in the center (between the large outer support arms)?

I looked through the Lippert manuals and could not find anything similar - except for some electric slides.

[William Jordan]

I see the issue you speak of.  I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?

No no access .. short of pulling the slide I guess. I mentioned putting a roller under the cabinet , where it drops but they weren’t onboard with that.
This slide is where it’s supposed to be as far as height and fitting the “hole” but whatever stopped that slide in the past no longer does.
 The bottom wiper seal on that slide has worn out finally and is mostly missing so I’m having it replaced next month. A good chance to look at it again. With that wiper seal missing I can at least see all the floor rollers and they are in good shape.
The slide on the drivers side is powergear ( labels on the rails ) but there are no markings on the passenger side

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Dwight,
Why not try adding a spacer(s) on each side to the AL frame about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the silde opening to act as stops for the slide top? Mounting them higher would just increase the needed thickness of the spacer. I'd use heavy duty double sided tape as a mounting medium until I knew if it would work.
Steve

[Dwight Lakusta]

I see the issue you speak of.  I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?

No no access .. short of pulling the slide I guess. I mentioned putting a roller under the cabinet , where it drops but they weren’t onboard with that.
This slide is where it’s supposed to be as far as height and fitting the “hole” but whatever stopped that slide in the past no longer does.
 The bottom wiper seal on that slide has worn out finally and is mostly missing so I’m having it replaced next month. A good chance to look at it again. With that wiper seal missing I can at least see all the floor rollers and they are in good shape.
The slide on the drivers side is powergear ( labels on the rails ) but there are no markings on the passenger side

You are right!!! It is a powergear system!!!!

[Dwight Lakusta]

Dwight,
Why not try adding a spacer(s) on each side to the AL frame about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the silde opening to act as stops for the slide top? Mounting them higher would just increase the needed thickness of the spacer. I'd use heavy duty double sided tape as a mounting medium until I knew if it would work.
Steve

Well Steve. That’s a hell of an idea. I will start with that. 

Also William, I was thinking, instead of a roller, maybe a 2 foot wide piece of wood or aluminum wrapped with a carpet that would slide on the tiles? Like a shoe?