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Author Topic: Rusted Toilet Flange  (Read 360 times)

Adam Hicklin

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Rusted Toilet Flange
« on: April 14, 2019, 06:18:13 AM »
On the last trip I noticed a discoloration in the grout in front of the toilet and some random wetness around the base of the toilet.  Couldn’t pinpoint a leak though.  Once home, I disassembled the toilet and found that the metal flange, around the plastic sewer pipe, had rusted through an many spots.  It had been leaking, or at least getting wet, for a very long time.  So, toilet rebuild and hoping to find a retrofit toilet flange that will work without too much work/demolition.  I’ll try to post the progress.

Also, since I’ll be replacing most of the toilet parts, I want to eliminate the overflow drain in the Sealand Traveler 511.  I got the ball seal kit WITHOUT the hole for the overflow, as suggested.  But do I need to fill/cover the hole under the rim if the toilet?  If any water gets in there, it will be trapped.  Any suggestions?
1998 Marquis
Magnum Chasis
C-12

Mike Shumack

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Re: Rusted Toilet Flange
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2019, 11:29:16 AM »
You may need to replace the flange with a "Universal Flange Kit" *as recommended in the Sealand 511 manual) such as this https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/sealand-toilet-universal-mounting-flange-kit-white-385310139
This is the gasket http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-sealand-4-bolt-toilet-floor-flange-seal.html
- Mike

'05 Beaver Patriot Thunder, Vicksburg, CAT C13  525HP, Allison 4000MH, HydraLift

Neal E Weinmann

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Re: Rusted Toilet Flange
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2019, 02:30:42 AM »
I recently went through this ugly repair and would caution you that the rusted flange may only be the tip of your problem(s). I discovered the issue after I felt and heard the tiles around the base begin to move. Once I removed the toilet, I soon discovered that the water had seeped below the tiles and that a considerable amount of the subfloor was wet, soft and moldy. The tiles just lifted out.  I tediously removed 3/8” deep area of subfloor and glued/screwed in a plywood floor patch on which I could remount a complete new ABS flange and drain pipe assembly that extends into the black tank below. Attached is a picture of the damage found.
2005 Monterey Bayview IV
CAT C9 400HP
2018 Ford Edge Titanium
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Roy Boles

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Re: Rusted Toilet Flange
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2019, 04:49:16 AM »
    As far as the overflow holes in the toilet bowl you need to get some rubber plugs.  I got mine from Lowe’s.  I pushed them and cut of the protruding part using a razor blade.
'98 Marquis Diamante
C-12/Allison 4000
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Adam Hicklin

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Re: Rusted Toilet Flange
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2019, 06:24:34 AM »
Update:

Was able to cut and pry the partially rusted Toilet Flange off the plastic pipe.  Then got a two piece flange to replace the old rusted one.  This was the easiest solution.  Ended up replacing just about all of the replaceable parts on the toilet.  I tried the ball seal without the overflow opening, wanting to eleiminate the overflow feature because I was sure this was an easy path for black tank smell entry.  I couldn’t get it to seal, so I ended up ordering the seal with the overflow opening.  I discovered that there is a feature molded into the base at the overflow hole which acts as a little trap to prevent black tank smell from filtering through the overflow holes.  So, if your toilet has overflow holes, make sure some water gets in there to prevent the little trap from dying out.  It probably holds 2 tablespoons of water, so it would not take long to dry out.  My other suggestion would be, if your going to replace toilet parts, replace all of them.  As soon as I would replace one part, something else would start to leak, or not seal.  Needless to say, I’m very familiar with assembly and disassembly of a Sealand Travelor 511 Toilet.  I replaced the ball assembly, water valve, vacuum breaker, ball seal and flange gasket for a little over $100.  Cheaper than a new toilet and works perfectly. 
1998 Marquis
Magnum Chasis
C-12