Author Topic: Hydro Hot  (Read 2901 times)

Jerry Emert

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1077
  • Thanked: 193 times
Hydro Hot
« on: April 22, 2019, 10:15:16 PM »
Had more leaks in heater hose under slide for furnace register under sink. Replaced bad hose and wound up going into the house before I found good hose to splice. My question is will the HH get an air lock typed thing in the hoses I replaced that lost anti freeze?  If yes how do I vent it or release it?  Can I take the radiator cap off and run for a few minutes or will that be a mess?  Thanks in advance. Finishing up tomorrow one way or another.
Jerry
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
4000MH

Mike Shumack

  • Guest
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2019, 11:08:27 AM »
Jerry, I don't have the HydroHot, I have the AquaHot system - but should be same. I will try to find the Installation Manual for the HydroHot - and if there is anything different from the procedure below, I post back.
Here are the AquaHot bleeding instructions for the heat registers:

UPDATE: I located an installation manual for the HydroHot 200/500 model. this is the bleeding procedure for that system

« Last Edit: April 23, 2019, 01:03:14 PM by Mike Shumack »
The following users thanked this post: Jerry Emert

Doug Allman

  • Guest
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2019, 01:28:03 PM »
We have had hydronic hot water system, in homes, in shops and in coach's for over 70 years. The best method to purge a zone is to turn off all other zones and then let the zone worked on flow by turning it on so a pump will run solution thru that zone only.
In most systems there is an air purge valve that lets any air out of system as fluid passes by this valve. In the coach systems there is not that I have ever seen or found an air purge valve so is why they indicate to leave the cap loose thereby letting air to rise and leave the fluid from the tank location.
You do one zone at a time as the zone that is air locked will not allow fluid to flow thru it if its resistance is allowed to remain by the fluid by passing it and flowing thru the other zones.  Normally you can just leave the other zones in off position. IF this does not work then you may have to isolate the other zones by closing the valves to those zones, which should have happened by leaving them in off position. However if the zone valves do not shut tight and fluid can pass by then you have to manually be sure they are closed.
That is the normal way to make fluid flow on a large system that has a header which lets the fluid flow to all the zones and will then bypass an airlocked zone due to the restriction.
You would not think air could create a blockage that a pump or pumps could not overcome but it is a very real and capable blockage in a hydronic fluid moving system that at times you have to completely isolate so that the pump can move fluid only thru that one zone to clear it. Fluid always take the least path of resistance so it must be forced at times thru a single zone in a closed system.
The following users thanked this post: Jerry Emert

Bill Sprague

  • Guest
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2019, 03:14:24 PM »
I still have the HydroHot manuals from when we owned the '04 Monterey.  I thought I put them in the BAC files system years back.  If not there I can email them in .pdf form. 

This is a paste from the bleeding page. 

Bleeding the Interior / Fresh Water Tank Heating System

NOTES:
A. It is recommended to use either an Ethylene-Gylcol or Propylene-
Gylcol based Antifreeze for all Hydro-Hot installations.

B. Be sure to remove the Hydro-Hot's "Access Cover" before beginning
this procedure, see Figure 2.

1. Remove the Hydro-Hot’s Pressure Cap and completely fill the Heat Tank
by pouring in 4 Gallons of a 2/3-thirds Water and 1/3-third Antifreeze
Solution, see Figure 2.

2. Replace and tighten the Hydro-Hot's Pressure Cap.

3. Locate and disconnect the two Yellow colored wires located inside the
Access Cover Area, see Figure 32 for wire details.

4. Connect the two Yellow colored wires together by utilizing an ATO type
automotive fuse, or similar, see Figure 32.

5. Switch ON any Interior Zone Thermostat to its maximum temperature
setting. Allow the Circulation Pump to operate for approximately one
minute and then switch it OFF. This will activate one of the Hydro-Hot's
Circulation Pumps which will fill the heating system's plumbing lines.

6. Again, remove the Hydro Hot's Pressure Cap and completely fill the
Heat Tank with additional water / antifreeze solution.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for both Heating Loops until all air has been
completely bled from the entire heating system.

8. Remove the fuse, or similar, from the two Yellow wires and reconnect the
wires back to their original wiring configuration, see Figure 32.

NOTE: The Yellow wires are not polarity sensitive, so either Yellow wire
can connect to either Black wire.

The following users thanked this post: Jerry Emert

Jerry Emert

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1077
  • Thanked: 193 times
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2019, 03:54:25 PM »
Thank you all. I’ll post results later.
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
4000MH

Jerry Emert

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1077
  • Thanked: 193 times
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2019, 03:05:15 AM »
Left the cover off the HH filled it with anti freeze. Let it run.  Took about ten minutes for the furnace to come on. Working fine now. Thanks for help.
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
4000MH

Al Anderson

  • Guest
Re: Hydro Hot
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2019, 08:15:06 PM »
Here are two other things that can help minimize/eliminate the bubble.  You can do the first with a commercial radiator pressure tester or by gently blowing compressed air into the coolant overflow line till the cap starts to release.  If you do this while running the zone you will compress the bubbles making it easier for them to flow back to the reservoir. 

Another secret is to use a commercial vacuum fill to do the initial fill after any servicing.  This tools creates a vacuum in the system.  It is designed to pull fluid out and only allow the coolant in. 

Both processes can help remove air bubbles heating system and even engine cooling systems. 
The following users thanked this post: Jerry Emert