Chassis batteries wiring

[Keith Moffett]

Am trying to help a potential new member with a new to them 06 Monterey.  They didn't take pictures before pulling out the Chassis batteries for charging.  I need to find out where the 4 white wires go.
If any Monterey owner between 04 and 06 would be willing to take a pic. For me and send it ,  that would sure help.
Send to moffrobb@yahoo.com or text it to 360 775 0234
Sure appreciate it.

[Richard Davis]

I went out and looked at my 2006 Monterey.  Took a picture, texted it to above number.  Two white wires attached to front battery negative post.  Other two white wires attached to negative post on back battery.  Both negative posts connected together with large cable.  So, all those wires get connected to the negative posts on the starting batteries.

Richard

[Keith Moffett]

Got the pic on a text.  Thanks again.  This will help.  Next time I bet he takes pictures.

[Joel Ashley]

Some additional input.

[Keith Moffett]

Again, Thank you to Richard and Joel for a couple great pictures and taking the time.

[Keith Moffett]

These wires were tried on the positive terminals at least briefly.  Since these are all ground what fuse could have been blown that would create a no start.  Operating the ignition does nothing at all.  Not even a click.  Any circuit that dead has to be a  blown fuse right?

[Joel Ashley]

You might check the similar 2005 wiring diagrams in the equipment manual “zip” files of the Coach Assist section;  I’m not at a computer that can open them.  If needed I can get a copy of the relevant page(s) from my diagrams book to you, but check if there is 12v to the left big post on the infamous troublesome solenoid, streetside forwardmost bay.  If so, does voltage pass to the right side post when the key is turned in the ignition?

Joel

[Keith Moffett]

You might check the similar 2005 wiring diagrams in the equipment manual “zip” files of the Coach Assist section; 

Joel
[/quote

Was unable to find the relevant parts in the 05 manuals.  There is a hum in and near the big boy but all the fuses in that area checked ok.  He is going to get a replacement ign solenoid tomorrow.  Do you happen to have a part number?  Other than BCS the only option here is NAPA for the solenoid so if you had a number they might match it up.

[Joel Ashley]

If it's the one in the electrical bay I referred to, it's Cole Hersee #24059BP.

Remember the diode across the solenoid's small ignition terminals must go on with the gray stripe to his left.  Just note which way the diode is configured before removing the old solenoid.

If. The issue is indeed a bad solenoid afterall, consider getting two so he carries a spare like most of us.

Joel

[Gerald Farris]

Keith,
Check the solenoid before you replace it. If you just start replacing parts without checking anything, you will be wasting a lot of time and money, and you may never get the coach to run. The chances are very high that there is a bad fuse.

Gerald 

[Keith Moffett]

Gerald
All the fuses I could find were good in the Big boy area.  Where else might I look?
Also
Joel and Gerald
testing across the solenoid showed dead with no key but 12.8 key on.  Solenoid clicked but no start and the voltage dropped in 2 / 3 seconds to 12.2V.  Will install new if one can be found in town or ordered.  The connections on the starter are rusted as well so he is fixing that too.  Running out of ideas.

Thanks again

[Joel Ashley]

In a previous post you indicated there wasn’t even a “click”, but perhaps it’s easier to hear when right next to the solenoid.  I’m glad you did check it as I’d suggested originally.  There are ignition relays (K7?) off of circuit breaker 36 (far left buss second from bottom), but the auto-resetting breaker and relays would not be my first suspect.  Of course be sure the transmission is in Park... I once spent an hour on a boat ramp parking lot under my old coach fruitlessly hunting down a supposed bad starter connection, after neglecting to take the tranny out of gear when I first parked.  The neutral safety prevented me starting it.

Sounds more now like the problem all along is actually at the starter.  But the batteries need to be fully charged after whatever repairs are attempted at the starter before trying it again.  And run down the chassis grounding wires;  there could be one or two coming off the starter main body (and maybe one from the starter body to a battery negative post).  Where they bolt to the coach frame can be a high-resistance trouble-spot.  If the old solenoid is still good, then a newly purchased one may one day be a handy spare.

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

Engine start diagram

[Mike Shumack]

Here's a diagram for the Big Boy circuit (for the Monterey) - but looks to be the same for my coach too (probably same all Beaver/Monaco's of those years). I have the "starter circuit" too but its too large to attach here - I think it can also be found in the Coach Assist Links section

Regarding the four white wires - it's sloppy work at the factory to not mark them with color coded tags (red and black heat shrink tubing on the ends would save people a lot of grief). My Patriot had four white wires too - but all went to positive battery terminal. If your not 100% sure what is positive and what is negative, I would leave them disconnected for now.

The starter circuit is not very complicated. You can crank engine with a "remote starter switch" connected from starter solenoid to battery positive to test (of course always be sure transmission is in neutral).

It sounds like you have located a dirty/corroded terminal at the starter- so that may be your problem. You can test this by doing a "voltage drop" test from a good ground point on starter houseign to the battery negative terminal. Google this test if your not sure how to do it. A voltage drop test is one of the most useful tests when troubleshooting automotive electrical systems, and only requires a good voltmeter with some long leads.

But be sure the batteries are fully charged and terminals are clean and tight before doing any testing.