Author Topic: Roof coatings  (Read 6501 times)

Dale Soule

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Roof coatings
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:42:55 AM »
Sometime back there was a discussion on roof coatings, can't find it. I believe a Rustolum product was mentioned, and another.  I'm looking for something that will help keep the white streaks from covering the side of the coach. The roof is in good shape, always in side when not in use. Any reference would be appreciated that two old people could accomplish.
2006 Beaver Monterey Montclair IV
Chassis: Magnum
Engine: C-9-400
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Dan Murphy

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2019, 01:52:52 AM »

Dale Soule

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2019, 03:31:17 AM »
Thank you Dan, I believe this is what I'm looking for. Thank you.
2006 Beaver Monterey Montclair IV
Chassis: Magnum
Engine: C-9-400
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Larry Dedrick

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2019, 04:52:41 AM »
Dale

          When you do your roof, prep is the first step and doing it right. Wash with soap and water, then use acetone to remove any wax and any oils that may be present. Now you can use soap and water again with scotch pads to get rid of any chalking. It will be a milky mess. if you use scotch pads prior to this, you will possibly be pushing any wax and oils into the jell coat, if it wasn't removed with the acetone. After you have rinsed, you can again use a bit of soap to get rid of any lingering chalk. Now you are ready for a final acetone wipe and after that a primer coating, followed by one if not two coats of the marine deck paint. The Rustoleum Marine Deck Paint is a Very good product which I used on our 2001 Beaver when we had it. Our 2008 Beaver, which we still have, had a coating of Bus Kote on it, so I washed and prepped it for two more coatings. Bus Kote is a very good product that insulates the roof. The final step with this product is to apply a clear layer of their product, which top Coates and protects the primary layer.
        It is a toss up on the two products. Rustoleum leaves a very smooth layer and reflects sun light well. The Bus Kote is not a smooth surface, but it not only reflects sunlight, but insulates as well.

            Good Luck with your project
          Larry D
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Lee Welbanks

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2019, 02:54:57 AM »
Dale,

This winter I pressure washed and scrubbed the roof of my PT then applied two coates of Rustoleum Top Deck gloss white paint. It took almost 5 qts for the two coates, the roof came out amazing, the instructions and info on the paint say that it is not slippery and it is not. No more white streaks down the sides of the coach, dirt doesn't stick to it and when we were up in Custer SD we had 13" snow on the roof, got up on the roof and pushed the snow off with a broom, nothing seems to stick to this paint.
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Joel Ashley

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2019, 03:24:52 AM »
The basic guidance is 2-3 qts. for two coats, but Lee used almost 5.  Are 3 qts. enough to do our 37’ coach?

I guess if my local Ace has it in stock, coming up short near the end is no real issue.  But it would be nice not to have to interrupt the process to run to the store.  Maybe buy 4 cans and either add a 3rd coat or take an unopened can back?

Joel
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Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
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Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2019, 06:00:13 AM »
Joel,
2 qts should do your coach with 1/2qt to spare. I've done 2 40's and 42' and never used a full 2 qts.
Steve
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Gerald Farris

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2019, 06:11:36 PM »
Steve,
If you coated a 40 foot coach with 2 coats using only 2 quarts of paint, you were able to use much thiner coats than I was. When I coated my 40 foot coach, I used 4 quarts of paint to get 2 coats. Probably the main difference is that I used a roller instead of a brush to apply the paint.

Gerald

Lee Welbanks

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2019, 04:43:11 AM »
I'm with Gerald, I used a roller and put the paint on thick, both coats. I wasn't about to skimp on paint, 3 or 4 qts who cares what ever it takes to get good coverage for the whole roof.

Richard Hicks

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2019, 02:46:44 AM »
Did you remove A/C units and coat under them?

Gerald Farris

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2019, 03:34:47 AM »
Ted,
My coach has basement air, so no A/C unit to remove, but I would not have removed it if I had one/several. If you clean well, and up close to the A/C unit, there will be no need to remove it, but a brush will be required to get into the tight places. A roller is easier and faster in the open areas.

Gerald

Wes Gendron

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2019, 04:24:21 AM »
While removing a topper for replacement (2005 Patriot Thunder) I noticed the roof cap was pulling loose from the wall (driver side rear) where they meet and where the topper fastens to the wall. What is the best way to assess the extent of any damage, if any (dry rot, etc) and how is it best repaired?
« Last Edit: September 02, 2019, 03:13:26 AM by Wes Gendron »

Adam Hicklin

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #12 on: September 01, 2019, 10:36:36 PM »
I’ll be doing painting my roof with the Rustoleum deck paint before the rainy season. I have cracking and weathered Dicor. Is it best to try to peel up the old Dicor, or just use new Dicor over the existing?then paint over the new Dicor?

Fred Brooks

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #13 on: September 02, 2019, 12:16:06 AM »
    Hey Adam, Most technicians agree if you have the original sealant and it has been coated over twice, it is time to remove everything and start over. Tip: use a multitool with the off-set blade with no teeth and it blasts right thru the old sealant, Fred
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Joel Ashley

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Re: Roof coatings
« Reply #14 on: September 02, 2019, 01:17:48 AM »
Previous threads on the topic here from 2013 also offer that softening the sealant with a heat gun can aid removal, and most nowadays follow Fred’s advice re. a multitool.  Also Toluene for cleaning seams prior to new Dicor, with mineral spirits and then acetone and lacquer thinner coming in as secondary but workable cleaning options. 

Ed Buker once recommended PPG Acryli-clean DX330, but there is a label caution about using it on fiberglass re. static electricity and flash fire.  But then lacquer thinner (which has toluene in it) and other volatiles will have the same hazard warning.
http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,2520.msg18856.html#msg18856
(As an addendum for those that read that old thread, there still has been no water in the electrical bay since.)

Some use Extreme Simple Green as they peel off the old sealant as its surfactants keep the stuff from sticking to itself and tools.



Joel
« Last Edit: September 02, 2019, 01:44:32 AM by Joel Ashley »
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat