Author Topic: Lower slide seal  (Read 3467 times)

Adam Hicklin

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Lower slide seal
« on: August 26, 2019, 04:47:44 PM »
I’m replacing the wiper seal that is on the underside of the LR slide out.  It’s about 18’ long and 4” wide on this coach.  I have the material and have drilled out the rivets.  The rubber material is sandwiched between a metal trim piece and the frame.  Has anyone replaced this seal?  I’m trying to figure out the best way to attach the rubber first (spray adhesive, maybe?) then re-install the trim piece with screws, not rivets.  The problem I can foresee is that the rubber piece is slightly larger than the space it fits into, to create the seal.  Thus, there will always be a slight pressure against it which makes me think glueing won’t be effective.  It won’t hold until I get the trim piece on.  Any thoughts?

Fred Brooks

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2019, 07:08:47 PM »
    Adam, I did mine 2 years ago in a campground when I had nothing else to do. The trick I used where the off-set is front and rear, is to pop rivet it in place with wide head rivet then put the molding on over. Seal every thing with Sikaflex-221 urathane. Keep in mind this is a wiper seal so it should not flip back and forth in transition. Fred
Fred & Cindy Brooks
2000 Marquis, Jasper
C-12 Wild Cat (U of A)
2014 Honda CRV
Proverbs 3: 5 & 6

Marty and Suzie Schenck

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2019, 08:10:36 PM »
Adam, I did that twice on my 2002 thunder. Once when I bought it in 2007 and then again in 2017. I drilled out all the rivets then placed the metal flashing on a long bench. I placed the new rubber seal on the flashing then drilled through the rubber using the flashing holes as a guide. On every other hole I tied light weight string to hold the rubber to the flashing. Then my wife and I fed the 16 food long thing through and into position. I used a pneumatic rivet gun to set new rivets in the holes without the string. After those were done I removed the string and set rivets in them. I then trimmed the ends to length, set with sealer and screws. Took about 5 dirty hours and being a contortionist. LOL

Adam Hicklin

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2019, 06:28:24 AM »
So, this is what I did.  My flashing trim piece was in two pieces, so I think that made it a little easier.  After drilling out the rivets,  which was easier than I thought it was going to be, except for the 3 or 4 that were in The middle above the storage box.  Those took some time and some contortionist moves. 

The main run is flat with an aluminum frame topped by plywood top and bottom.  The rivets were in the metal frame piece.  At either end, there was an angled plywood piece, about 1.5 inches thick.  They riveted the seal and trim piece in to the plywood on the ends, which was not a good idea as it separate the laminated pieces of plywood and allowed water in.  There was a little rot.

I filled the holes in the wood, then epoxied all the wood surfaces I could reach.  I put an index mark above a few of the holes on the flat part.  Stretched the rubber piece down the whole length.  I then was able to hold the rubber piece on the trim piece(there is a 1/4 inch lip on the under side of the trim piece)  hold it up, and indexed the hole in the trim to my index mark, then used a self drilling screw with a rubber washer in to the existing frame hole.  The  beauty was that the self drilling screw went right through the rubber.  Once I got the first screw in, all subsequent holes lined up.  I moved down the line pulling the rubber tight, screwing the next hole.  I left the rubber long on each end.  Formed the trim and rubber over the angled wood part and screwed in to the wood with wood screws and finish washers.  Took about 4 hours total, but some of that was waiting for the epoxy to dry, and a lot of head scratching.

I decided on screws, and not rivets, because if I ever have to do this again, it will be easier to get the screws out.  I think the rubber washers on the screws will provide enough weather protection, for that area.  The original rivets didn’t have anything protecting them and the water damaged ends was more a function of poor weatherproofing and using the wrong fastener.

I had been dreading this for a couple years.  All in all, not as bad as I thought it was going to be.  I appreciate the input. 
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Fred Brooks

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2019, 03:13:04 PM »
    Hi Adam, I have replaced the original 1/8" flimsy wiper seal on several coaches. Looks like you did an excellent repair. I've enclosed 2 pix to show others where I used 2" drywall screws to attach into the stacked plywood in the ends. Why would anyone put rivets into plywood. You state that you sealed the wood with epoxy which is a great idea, I used Sika-Flex 221 urathane to seal all the weathered plywood. I replace my seal with 3/16" thick seal so as not to transition too far back and forth with room travel. Fred
Fred & Cindy Brooks
2000 Marquis, Jasper
C-12 Wild Cat (U of A)
2014 Honda CRV
Proverbs 3: 5 & 6

Fred Brooks

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2019, 03:20:19 PM »
  Yikes, did it again, Did not resize the photo small enough.
Fred & Cindy Brooks
2000 Marquis, Jasper
C-12 Wild Cat (U of A)
2014 Honda CRV
Proverbs 3: 5 & 6

Adam Hicklin

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Re: Lower slide seal
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2019, 06:12:23 AM »
Looks like we had the same idea.  I ordered material that was 1/8, but it’s pretty stout.  Probably closer 3/16.  It could probably be a little shorter, as you suggested.  It flops back and fourth, but not enough to get in to the slide rollers.  I used some long wood screws In to the wood also.  What a difference ha I g a seal makes.  I can’t feel the wind on my feet when I sit on the couch, and I can hardly hear the generator, when before it sounded like it was in the living room with us!  Thanks for your help Fred. 
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