Recent Posts

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Technical Support / Re: TV antenna replacement
« Last post by David Ciotti on August 13, 2026, 03:38:16 PM »
I prefer using crimp connectors covered with shrink wrap over soldering.  One you need less equipment to crimp and second disconnecting the crimp connections is less destructive.  Sometimes it takes 3 pieces of shrink wrap, one over the connectors and one on each end of that piece of shrink wrap to seal tight on the wires.
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Technical Support / Re: TV antenna replacement
« Last post by Fred Brooks on August 13, 2026, 11:25:33 AM »
    Randy,
 Did you turn on the antenna booster switch with the red LED illuminated? The antenna will not work if the switch is off. There is also the possibility that antenna system in a 28-year-old coach has been modified by previous owners. Fred
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Technical Support / Re: TV antenna replacement
« Last post by Joel Ashley on August 13, 2026, 09:37:18 AM »
We replaced our original Batwing with a Razar Air a decade ago, over a weekend, while awaiting outside a shop in Bend for other service on the next Monday. 

The Air can use the existing Winegard Sensar lift and rotate mechanism, and is multidirectional, giving improved reception.  After getting the old antenna on my home workbench, I found the electric connections inside the batwing had corroded and essentially disintegrated.  Some of the external connections on the roof weren’t optimal either, so using more effective and corrosion preventing connection techniques was part of my retrofit.  I used the shorter lift arm than the original so wind wouldn’t have as much potentially damaging torque, and had to do a little re-engineering on the fly, but I like that the Air model lies relatively flat on the roof while traveling.

Some non-lift models and brands, King Jack, and Tram for example, and even certain Winegard versions, stand up enough to more likely snag tree limbs, etc. than the folded down Air or Sensar batwing.  When researching them as options, I read some not so great reviews, and my service guy said he’d had to replace a lot of that style - he advised against them.  I liked that when upright the Air presents a broad face to intercept off-air signals, and I could re-use the existing crank up mechanism.

I abstained from the usual blue crimp connectors, favoring soldering wires and using shrink tubing, with Lexel overlaying the connections.  There are better insulating connectors available these days, as an option to hand soldering;  they can have solder built into their midst that melts around inserted wires and shrinks and seals with applied heat gun heat or careful flame, all in one shot.

As to performance, I’ve found our Razar Air better than the old batwing, works well with the booster, and doesn’t need as much turning to tweak a signal.  It even works while laid down in some optimal areas.  I note that it may not be readily available now, as I had to do some unexpected effort to find it online.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/rayzar-air-hd-antenna-white.html

All that said, today I might consider the newer Winegard Rayzar Automatics and the Air 360 models.  I admittedly don’t know anything about them, but I would be researching them if I needed a replacement.

Joel


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Technical Support / TV antenna replacement
« Last post by Randy Keaveny on August 13, 2026, 12:56:36 AM »
Looking for any recommendation on replacement antenna that will work with the original setup.  Or similar.   I’m in an area that gets lots of channels.  But the original antenna is showing done wear and tear
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Technical Support / Re: Stubborn Deadbolt
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on August 11, 2026, 01:08:25 PM »
Joel
If it only tightens up when you snug up the bolts it may be that the dead bolt is either being pinched or pushed to create a miss alignment.
The dead bolt is supposed to float on the two spools that those screws thread onto if for some reason the dead bolt is squeezed it may become hard to
Slide.
I have seen some lock sets with a thin stainless steel washer installed under them ( between the door and the lock set) presumably to shim the lock set out to create the clearance needed to keep the lock set from pushing against the dead bolt.

Did you have the dead bolt out of the door ? If so you may have inadvertently installed it backwards ( some of the dead bolts have an offset ) to allow for the
Lock cylinders length.

Try boltng the  lock set together  and tightening up the screws with it out of the door and see if everything works .
Also with the system installed back in the door if everything works easily with the door open and is stiff with the door closed the problem is likely with the door latch adjustment not aligning the dead bolt with the hole in the door frame..

While you have the tumbler out Deoxit D5 or liquid wrench work well to clean and lube the tumbler pins if they are sticky.

Hope this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: No power for brake lights at coach 7 pin connector
« Last post by Steve Huber on August 07, 2026, 11:59:23 PM »
Glad you found it!
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Technical Support / Receiver Drier part number??
« Last post by Brian Fahlgren on August 07, 2026, 07:37:19 PM »
I'm hoping to find a part number for the dash air receiver/drier for our 2000 Monterey Sea Cliff. Guessing it's an Acme unit, but there's no part number. The build date is 9/99, but it's titled as a 2000. The drier is approx 7" tall and 2 3/4" in diameter with male threads. I'm not sure of the thread size. I'm guessing if I replace it with a similar size, it will work. I was going to drill the bottom of the old drier to get an approximate amount of PAG oil to add back into the new drier. I'm guessing I'll be okay with PAG 46, but I'd like to make sure. There was only a high side coupler behind the firewall, but I did find a high and low port a couple feet in line from the compressor on the frame rail. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Brian
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Technical Support / Re: No power for brake lights at coach 7 pin connector
« Last post by Richard Shrode on August 07, 2026, 05:27:24 PM »
UPDATE:
I currently have working brake lights on the toad. I took Scott’s advice and checked out the wiring from the turn signal on the steering column. Long story short, the wires terminated in a plug/socket alongside the steering column that I don’t think was completely seated. It was difficult to pull apart and harder to put back together. As difficult as it was to put back together I'm not convinced it was ever fully seated. Cleaned the contacts and with a little help from some channel locks and a zip tie I think it's as good as new, or better.
Thank you to everyone for your help.
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Technical Support / Re: 2004 Patriot Thunder Entry Door Questions
« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on August 07, 2026, 01:49:01 PM »
Bill
If it were my coach I'd just call tri mark and get another 211 code tumbler so the same key worked on all the locks .

Eric
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Technical Support / Re: No power for brake lights at coach 7 pin connector
« Last post by Richard Shrode on August 04, 2026, 04:38:25 AM »
Wholly smokes Scott, that’s quite a response. Thank you. We got home this evening and I plan to start working on this tomorrow. My significant other, who’s been following me in our toad, has made it clear that if I know what’s good for me I’ll get this fixed asap :)
Steve, yes, the brake lights on the coach work whether the toad is connected or not.
I’ll be sure to update this thread as things progress
Thank you
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