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Technical Support / Re: TV Lift
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 12:32:19 PM »
Bill
It appears to me that this has been an ongoing issue as someone has added those large headed rivets in an attempt to pull that forward edge of the cover in to keep it from contacting the trim ring ( I'm sure Beaver didn't put those there)
Not knowing your system and the materials Beaver used to construct the cover makes it hard to give you any real meaningful advise but here it goes any way.
First I would remove the trim ring surrounding the lift panel to get good access to the curved area of the TV cover panel so you can determine whether the curved portion of the cover panel has lost its curve or just come loose from the lift frame requiring those rivets to secure it .
Also check to make sure the entire TV lift mechanism is tight in the ceiling  and that the lift panel doesn't have any up and down movement or looseness allowing it to hang down too far , remember these things take a beating on rough roads.
If possible I'd try to rework that curve to make it tighter .( It appears that is what those rivets where supposed to do but may not have pulled the cover in far enough or simply used up too much of the clearance in the process.
If that looks as if it's as good as it's going to get and the lift rotates freely with the trim ring removed I would then see if I could reinstall the trim ring moving it forward to create the clearance you need to allow the lift to rotate past the trim ring without contacting it.( This may require modifications to the trim ring)
Sometimes you have to rework things to get them to work right.


Hope this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: TV Lift
« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on Today at 03:23:35 AM »
I would love to help but nothing in your pictures resembles what our TV Lift looks like.
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Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead
« Last post by Brian Furlotte on Today at 12:07:56 AM »
Last summer I had issues while driving down the road some or all of my gauges would falter on and off.  It started with just a couple, then more.  Would last a few seconds, then come back on.  Started getting more and more common but the motor never hiccupped. 

Then one morning getting ready to leave a campground, the coach was idling as we were getting ready to pull out of site and it just died.  Odd.  Started it back up and everything was fine.  Then the gauges went dead and several seconds later the engine died again.  Searched on here and the 12v ignition solenoid in the electrical bay was suspect.  (Eric mentions this above)  So I got the meter out, checked voltage and had wife start coach.  Sure enough, strong voltage coming in, marginal coming out and then it dropped lower until motor stopped.  Replaced that relay and problem went away.  Two screws to mount solenoid and a couple of nuts to hold ignition wires.  I now carry a spare.

Might be it, unless I really missed reading your description, which is always possible!  Good luck
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Technical Support / TV Lift
« Last post by Bill Heffernan on April 27, 2024, 03:28:04 PM »
Its been a long saga trying to get our TV Lift system to work. My mechanic initially diagnosed that the motor was not working. I found one of the former owners of TV Lift and he provided me the testing procedure which allowed me to confirm that the motor was fine. Its now mechanically working, but he can't get the the TV panel and trim back together - the front of the TV panel is catching on the front trim and frame. It seems like the TV panel should have more to it. Attached are a couple pictures. Would anyone be able to send a picture of their set-up in the hope that I can what's wrong to help me steer the mechanic to get this right. Thanks
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Rallies / Re: 2024 Rallies
« Last post by Cathileen Stark on April 26, 2024, 06:02:55 AM »
Giovanni Bosch -https://beaveramb.org/forum/Smileys/default/cool.gif you have great instincts.  The posting on the Forum was good, but a quick email to a VP would have gotten you better results.  You can find email addresses in the Beaver Tales, or just reach out to me. When anyone thinks of a plan like this, we can help it come together, so you could have rolled to Las Vegas with new friends.  You could have also contacted the Rally Masters for information about who else might be coming from your area. I'm looking forward to meeting you in Las Vegas in just a few days.  Cathi nana.grandpa.rving@gmail.com
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Technical Support / Re: air up suspension from air compressor
« Last post by Joel Ashley on April 25, 2024, 07:55:19 AM »
Last fall I connected my large air compressor to the fitting in the filter bay but  for about 5 minutes but no suspension raise. I heard sounds from the front of the coach but no movement. Do I have something different?

An external compressor may take time to fill the coach’s two tanks.  You’d still need to use a control pad to tell the system what to do with that air.  While filling my tanks remotely I kept an eye on the dash air gauge needles until I got past the minimum 90 psi and up to 120+, then I could use the pad buttons to air up.
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Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead
« Last post by Dennis Clevenger on April 25, 2024, 02:45:56 AM »
Thanks Steve, I did check tightness of all S, I and Grd nuts but am now thinking of loosening, move the ring connection a bit and re-tighten.

Dennis


Dennis,
In addition to Eric's advice, (assuming the dash meter connections are held in place with threaded nuts) be sure to check the tightness of each nut. I had a similar problem on my 01 and found most of the nuts were not tight, causing intermittent connections.
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead
« Last post by Dennis Clevenger on April 25, 2024, 02:40:06 AM »
Thanks Eric, we’re traveling tomorrow, so I’ll test your suggestion in a day or so.  Will let you know results.

Thanks!

Dennis
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Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on April 25, 2024, 02:38:50 AM »
Dennis,
In addition to Eric's advice, (assuming the dash meter connections are held in place with threaded nuts) be sure to check the tightness of each nut. I had a similar problem on my 01 and found most of the nuts were not tight, causing intermittent connections.
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead
« Last post by Eric Maclean on April 25, 2024, 02:08:23 AM »
Dennis
Each of the gauges in the dash are feed 12+volts to the I terminal on each gauge this power is daisy chain from one gauge to the next.
Each gauge also has a ground connection on the G terminal on each gauge daisy chained from one to the next.

With the dash out check between the I terminal and the g terminal with a volt meter and the ignition turned on it should read battery voltage if you have a 12 volt reading the voltmeter should read 12 volts
First using a volt meter to read the voltage between the ground buss bar and the ignition solenoid with the ignition turned on check the voltage on both sides of the solenoid ( large studs) your are looking for a volt drop across the solenoid if there is more than a volt difference from one side to the other the solenoid is bad .next take a volt reading at both sides of the circuit breaker for the gauges if they aren't the same as at the solenoid the breaker is bad.
If the breaker is cycling on and off you may have a short circuit in the gauge feed circuit causing the breaker to cycle ( shorted wire or gauge)
If no 12 volt reading between  the I and g terminal on the gauges start by running a jumper with directly from the ground buss bar in the electrical bay to the G terminal and do your test again.to verify weather it's a ground problem or supply problem if you still have no 12 volt reading move your jumper wire to the I terminal and connect the other end to the ignition side of the ignition solenoid in the electrical bay.to verify the gauges read correctly


Sorry for the long winded instruction I hope it helps you determine where to look for your fault
Eric
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