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Technical Support / Re: switched at birth?
« Last post by Joel Ashley on Today at 03:07:36 AM »
The late Ken Carpenter at BCS once jokingly told me to leave that @*%! switch alone and in the ON position or he'd come looking for us.  Its not meant for repetitive use by the ultimate owner.  This at closing time and it failed just as we were leaving BCS following a few days of warranty services.  Ken called on a couple techs and the 3 of them worked on the issue so we could leave and they could go home for the evening.  He had them replace the latching solenoid as a precaution.

Technical Support / Re: switched at birth?
« Last post by Fred Brooks on Today at 12:17:49 AM »
Simple test to find out if it is operational. Turn on the coach ceiling lights. Toggle the salesman switch on and off and the lights should do the same. Eric is correct, the intelletek solenoid only needs momentary power to leave it "engaged" or disengaged. Some considerations: Older coaches have been modified by previous owners because it is annoying if you are a full timer. That is why Monaco went to an "intentional" switch so you can't inadvertently turn it off by accident.
Technical Support / Re: switched at birth?
« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 12:02:41 AM »
In most cases the salesmen switch operate a latching solenoid that will latch in one of two positions on or off.
The salesmen switch used is normally a momentary meaning that once the so!enoid has moved and latched in either on or off position the switch does not need to be held.
The solenoid is set up this way so that it does not require power to the coil to hold it in either position

Does your switch turn the 12 volt power off to the coach ?
If not there is a problem with the switch operation or the latching solenoid.

Technical Support / Re: switched at birth?
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on July 05, 2022, 11:11:30 PM »
I can hear the relay activate when in the momentary position, and no, the latch button does not move when switched to momentary. Still scratching my head.....
Technical Support / Re: Basement door removal
« Last post by Alan Lescarbeau on July 05, 2022, 11:09:57 PM »
I just took my doors off a 2002 Beaver Monterey and found that I had to rotate the door up just a little more than horizontal with the ground and then they popped out.
Technical Support / Re: switched at birth?
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on July 05, 2022, 10:31:04 PM »
I think there is a relay that the switch activates to hold the power solenoid. If not that, it could be a bad switch or there is a way to engage the locking mechanism in the switch on position.
Technical Support / switched at birth?
« Last post by Bill Lampkin on July 05, 2022, 09:42:10 PM »
Had a chance to use our 'salesman' switch today. I wonder if yours works the same. The switch has a locking button so you can't turn the switch off inadvertently. The switch will 'maintain' itself in the 'on' position. So far so good. So I moved the locking button to turn the switch off,  and found out that the switch is 'momentary' in the off position, in other words the switch will not stay in the off position by itself. There is a nice light in the switch to tell you its in the off position, but the switch will not stay off by itself. My question is; what's the point if the switch won't stay off? We just moved the coach from a storage site with a 30a hookup to a new site without electricity, so I'm trying to cut as many loads as possible.
Technical Support / Re: Slide Mystery
« Last post by Bill Heffernan on July 05, 2022, 03:22:32 AM »
Thanks! hope you're having a nice holiday.
Thank you
That bay should be relatively resistant to moisture intrusion, Steve.  Perhaps the failed filler/cap neck resulted in some fluid presence where it shouldn’t be, but the vapor point and pH of that I’d not think a corrosion threat, but maybe so.  Be certain that servicing techs cleaned up any spilled fluid in that compartment.  Check that the bay door seals properly when closed.  The Hydronics unit gets warm and can vaporize fluids or water present in the bay proper., so it can get to the control boards.

There is a product called Corrosion-X that can be used on basic electrical connectors and buss’, but I’m not sure I’d use it on circuit boards because it’s protective residue might be problematic for future repairs and tests.  Even in our formerly leaking front electrical bay that was often flooded, circuit boards didn’t corrode but barrel connectors, screws, and fasteners did.  The circuit board in our HydroHot bay has been clean and dry for 16 years.

Another protective product I use on finer connections and circuit board repairs is “Deoxit”.  It comes in various forms for certain uses, but for just protective care not requiring pre-cleaning I’d use Deoxit Shield.  Spray cans, bottles, and pens aren’t cheap, for sure, but a little can go far if sparingly used;  which is why I prefer the brush in a bottle version so I can delicately just dab at only metals and solder points.

Check for sales online, and be aware that the micro-brush bottle is quite a bit tinier than its photo reveals.  Too small for me.

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