BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Larry Dedrick on September 01, 2014, 10:19:08 PM
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We recently traded in our 01 Marquis for an 08 Marquis. The new coach has a drop down tv which we loved until today. It won't come down. We have tried hitting the raise TV button and then the lower button but nothing works. It did this a few days ago but then worked. We can hear a motor running but no movement. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Laura
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Laura, I've got a manual for the TV lift mechanism if it will help. It says its 2004 to current for Monacos. I can try to email if you want.
Jerry
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Our tv lift on our 2003 Marquis has been touchy too. Sometimes it works and other times we hear the motor but no action. Could you email the manual to us also?
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Jerry,
That would be great!
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Emailed to both of you. Let me know if it works. I'm never really sure when I send an email attachments from home.
Jerry
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Larry, I have also had issues with our lift system. I had it into BCS a few times but have never been able to fix it.
I did find that if I never go to the full up stop or the full down stop I can always get the system to operate. I think the problem my also have something to do with heat. I leave the lift about 1" from full up or down. This seems to allow the lift system to move. When my system is locked and I want to move the set up or down I am able to go in the opposite direction because I am not on the stops. Once I have movement the system will work. I don't know why but I have been running it like this for 3 years and don't get the lock up. Our rig is the 06 design but I think it's the same as your unit.
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My drop down TV quit working and I assumed it was because while my wife was showing the coach to someone she noticed some wires hanging down and just shoved them back into the unit and closed it up. I have been assuming that the wires were jamming some kind of scissors mechanism since the unit worked flawlessly before and now will only drop about an inch before locking up. We intend to replace the existing TV anyway, but I would like to get it "unjammed" to measure the existing space. I've been assuming that I would have to dismount the entire enclosure to access things. :o I'd be interested if anyone has a solution.
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Bruce you should be able to get the panel off the TV, it's held in place with a few screws and Velcro. It will pry off. The TV is mounted to a metal frame so it would not fall. The wood panel is 5/8 thick plywood. Above the TV set is a removable molding. The fabric is held in place with staples and can be removed once the molding is removed. I changed our set 2 years ago and also replaced the sound system. Both are much better then the original product from Monaco. We now have a 42" Samsung HDMI Smart TV and the sound system is a Sony Home Theater with a blue Ray player. If your going to Kerrville I would be happy to show you the finished job.
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Larry,
You said that you hear the motor but nothing moving, maybe the manual crank got pushed in which disengages the unit, it's the eyebolt device on the left end of the unit. These units do have temp overloads in the motor and the controller. These are made by Liftit Tv out of Seattle Wa. Hang on to your panty hose when replacing something, not cheap. I've had great response when I have asked them questions about the unit.
I have attached a couple of manuals and the web page. Oops can't attach the pdf's. I can email to you if you send me your email, actually the little manuals don't tell you all that much, I think I downloaded one from Lift Tv site.
http://www.liftmytv.com/products.html
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We just had this happen and i shut off all the electric including the 12 volt system then turned it back on----bingo it worked----up by the box is a small shaft that when i shook it turned on a red light ---so i moved it back and forth and now it works every time-----i think that shaft runs a set of points that are sticky
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I had replied days ago but see it didn't go through for some reason. Our problem seems to come and go. If we wait a bit and try it later it seems to work…not sure why yet. Could be heat though because it seems to be in the middle of the day it doesn't work. We just figured out our old coach and here we go again. We are loving this new coach though!
Laura
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Larry I think the problem may be heat, I have had this issue with our PT since 08 and it just won't go away. I have found that if the set is not on the limit stops I can always reverse my desired selection and then the system will work OK sooooo that being said I just don't go all up or all down stopping short allows me to touch the operational switch momentarily to get normal operation. We have no locks on the system to having the set hang down an inch make to problem, I have found the same issue when the set is down so again just stop short of full down.
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Jerry,
I have tried your method and so far it has worked. We have been parked now for a few days so have not had a lot of movement of the tv but will see how it goes once we start our long way home where we will be moving every few days.
Thanks,
Laura
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I have left my down while traveling and not had a problem. The control box does have thermal overloads, that is what TVLiftit told me when I talked to them. They said problem was probably the controller, I thought that it could also be one of the lock outs built into the system. I've never had another problem with mine but one time it desided not to come down and after awhile it worked again and has ever since.
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We left our Marquis unplugged and with the battery disconnects off for several days in an overflow area in a RV park. When we returned to the coach yesterday to move it back into a pay-for spot with hookups we found the Aladdin needed to be reset and it needed to be set back to VD on. After some 15 minutes of fidgeting with it I got the Main Menu and got the Coach Electrical Status up and showing while the generator was running.
When we got the coach into an RV spot, hooked to 50 amp, slides out, and leveled, the drop down TV would not operate. I read several threads here on the forum regarding this issue. I tried Gary Carver's method of turning off all power - still didn't work. I noticed when all was quiet and I pushed the Drop-Down switch I could hear two very faint clicks. After several repeats of pushing the button and hearing the coinciding clicks I concluded the switch must be forwarding power to the lift motor or at least to the area near the lift motor. I read with interest the discussion on the thermal breaker issue - thank you Lee Welbanks. It was very hot last week when we used the coach and when we parked it in the overflow area. But it was not too hot yesterday - in the upper 70s, I believe, when we returned and moved the coach. I fiddled with wires and wiggled with all the stuff I could reach near the lift motor with the TV up. Not much can be seen or touched with the TV up, by the way.
It still would not drop-down this morning after several button pushes. I decided to listen to the faint clicks when the Drop-Down button is pushed in an effort to pin-point their origin. I pushed the button and the damn TV about broke my neck. lol It's lowered now. I hope it goes up in a few days when we depart.
This is the first time in the nearly three years of our ownership this has happened. Does anyone have any ideas of what caused the problem? Where can I look? Should I have someone look at it... soon?
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David,
I have no specific understanding or cure. It is suspicious that it happened after you killed power to the coach for a period, which has one wonder if some form of "logic" or safety feature was confused when you powered back up.
It may be that a relay contact or a motor contact, if it has brushes, was intermittent. Really hard to know.... What I would do is check and tighten any wires that are easy to get to and cycle the TV up and down 10 times to check the functioning. If it cycles and works 10 times repeatedly, then it is likely it will keep working and the "bug" is out. I know there is a risk that it could close and not open, but it may be better to have that happen before you are ready to hit the road.
Later Ed
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Right now I am hoping it goes up when we depart in a few days. When we get back to home 100 miles away, then I will try the 10-times up and down suggestion. ::)
And thanks for the reply.
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David this has been a problem we have had for many years, we've been to BCS and never found a solution. But I have found one way to prevent a lock up/down and that is to never go all up or all down. If I can bump the switch in the opposite direction I have found I can always move the lift. Yes we drive with the TV hanging down about 1-2 inches but the heat then does not cause a lift issue.
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We just had our lift overhauled by the company that originally built them. They rebuilt it in a day. BCS overnighted it and they returned it in 2 days. It cost $450.
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Thanks Jerry for that suggestion too. I remember now I read in one of the older threads where you had posted that suggestion. I will try to use this not-quite-closed option when we depart in a couple days.
BUT... I determined why the TV did not drop-down. It was waiting for me to be under it... so it could try to get me! The Beaver Demons are forever vigilant. Fortunately, I am still young, 66, and in pretty good shape... and carry a sub-10 GHIN.
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David I know that the issue is connected to heat, if the set is fully up the sun will create the heat by keeping the set open the 1or2" it helps but I still have to move it up before it will operate downward. If all down same issue the heat will not allow an up movement until I can go down sooo.... know I just hold short. I have not thought about a total rebuild of the system since I can work around the issue. Of course we at times have a helpful tech that will put the set all up and I go OMG (#@%##) here we go again!
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Jerry, don't you live in or near the Seattle area, so you could drop in on the company that makes the lift? Laura's original comment about the control box, and those about heat and the BCS techs not finding the issue, seem to imply the problem for many if not most owners is perhaps not in the mechanism, but either contacts or board solder points in the control box. Contacts arc and carbon up, and solder points on an integrated circuit board micro-crack from repeated heating and cooling; either one will result in the symptom of inconsistent operation - sometimes enough electric current can flow through and sometimes not depending on the completeness of contact.
Admittedly, yours seems to be more mechanical if its consistently operational from a partly down position, but it could also be contact positioning inside the controller or motor.
Joel
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Joel you are correct that it sounds like a contact problem the heat issue is more of the problem the lift is working great up and down but if we go all the way home (up or Down) the problem then becomes a real issue you cant get to the gear box once it up. I have planned to add access but since I have found a way around the problem I have just gotten lazy. I think the OEM is in Bellingham, WA
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I just replaced the momentary on, rocker switch that actuates the TV raise and lower function. Last week it became obvious that the switch was the problem. If I pushed sideways just a little on the switch button, then it would work. If I pushed straight on the button, then it would not work. Yes, I checked the connections on the back of the switch. The switch cost was only $3.42 but with FedEx freight added the total cost was over $16.00.
It's a Carling switch... normally OFF, momentary ON, rocker switch.
From the invoice:
"(Special Order) SSI: AP421703 : All Points 42-1703 Momentary On/Off Rocker Switch - 12A/125V, 8A/250V (PRT1) $3.42 1 $3.42"