BAC Forum
General Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: LaMonte Monnell on November 25, 2015, 04:49:07 PM
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I was wondering what to order or what to get to replace the insulation for the closet engine access floor in my Contessa? They now believe the overheat issue was caused by the insulation coming loose from the access cover and sandwiching between the radiator and CAC. They pulled the radiator out and found a big mess of insulation pieces in there blocking the lower section of the radiator. They test drove and now at 195-200 degree's.
Can I get something at Lowes or Home Depot to attach under the access cover for heat insulation?
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Try a boat supply store, Like West Marine, they have fireproof heat and sound insulation.
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LaMonte,
Glad to hear they finally found the heating problem, for insulation go get Dynamat Extreme, it is a stick on super insulator material that they use on custom cars and street rods. The stuff isn't cheap but it gets the job done. Some auto parts stores will have it or you can order it through Amazon.
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I've had good luck with Sounddown brand marine insulation. It's a semi ridged product using multiple density layers to attenuate different frequencys.
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LaMonte,
I do not have a specific material recommendation but I think the issue that you are going after is heat and not so much noise, so insulating properties are important here. With the engine running we tend to be 35 feet away.
Fender washers and screws or some mechanical fasteners in a few locations will help as any adhesive on panels ages. Panels made for marine applications tend to be expensive trying to attenuate multiple noise harmonics with diesel or gas engines in close proximity to the cabin area. Some use lead layers within. We certainly do not need that here.
As a do it yourself approach on a boat I used some 2 by 4ft spun glass type suspended ceiling tiles with sheets of formica over them with fender washers and screws. It worked quite well but a product made specifically for the job is a better approach.
Glad they found the cause, hopefully you are getting your trip in this Thanksgiving.
Later Ed
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LaMonte,
I do not have a specific material recommendation but I think the issue that you are going after is heat and not so much noise, so insulating properties are important here. With the engine running we tend to be 35 feet away.
Fender washers and screws or some mechanical fasteners in a few locations will help as any adhesive on panels ages. Panels made for marine applications tend to be expensive trying to attenuate multiple noise harmonics with diesel or gas engines in close proximity to the cabin area. Some use lead layers within. We certainly do not need that here.
As a do it yourself approach on a boat I used some 2 by 4ft spun glass type suspended ceiling tiles with sheets of formica over them with fender washers and screws. It worked quite well but a product made specifically for the job is a better approach.
Ed, I did find some heat insulation on Amazon of course. Not so much noise protection as heat issues in the closet. They did get the Radiator back in the 19th, and test drove the 20th. Temp at 200 after driving a bit. Wants to re drive on Monday and also have me take it out and check the dash a/c and engine temps myself. So we just went to Golden Corral with family members.
Hope you are having a good day!
Glad they found the cause, hopefully you are getting your trip in this Thanksgiving.
Later Ed
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LaMonte, good your up and running again. reading about the insulation being pulled apart
in engine compartment. Have ran into several older MH had same problem. What I have seen
on some of the owners repairs, they use metal sheeting from heating and a/c place that
they build all kinds of duck work. Some put over the present insulation and looks very good
like came from factory. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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The point Dave brought up about the sheet metal from the ductwork folks as an insulation cover is a good one. I had forgotten that much of the ductwork being built uses an insulation panel material that would be pretty ideal for an engine compartment. HVAC folks would be a good source to talk to for all the materials and attachment techniques, they might even take on the job.
Later Ed
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Whatever you use for insulation it has to be able to withstand getting wet, so that rules out most of the AC HVAC products, I have seen some sprayfoam that is waterproof.
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Lee, not sure that all hvac products are ruled out. This product is foil faced, acrylic coated for improved water repellency. It might be worth trying a piece and see how it responds to getting wet. Basically just the edges are exposed and they could be covered with foil tape. These insulated duct panel materials are dense and coated.
http://www.jm.com/en/building-materials/hvac-insulation/duct-board/superduct-rc0/
Later Ed
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Lee, not sure that all hvac products are ruled out. This product is foil faced, acrylic coated for improved water repellency. It might be worth trying a piece and see how it responds to getting wet. Basically just the edges are exposed and they could be covered with foil tape. These insulated duct panel materials are dense and coated.
http://www.jm.com/en/building-materials/hvac-insulation/duct-board/superduct-rc0/
Later Ed
Ed,
Yes I would guess there are some HVAC products that can stand some water if one was to look hard enough. As a rule I do not think any of the big box store stuff would make the grade. I have checked with a couple of my car builder buddy's and they state that Dynamat is completely waterproof, but that stuff costs a arm and your first born.
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Lee, I was looking for something that might be les expensive for LaMonte. As you say, it remains to be seen if anything other then the product you mentioned is actually suitable. The engine compartment is not a friendly environment for sure. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
Later Ed
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I found some insulation called thermo guard at a friends shop, not sure how it will do ...heat rated to 2000 degrees but no mention of being subjected to the environment as on underside of closet panel over motor. Guess I will see what else is out there, as hvac type insulation and durability. Thanks for all the feedback once again. This site sure has a great group of knowledgeable gents and ladies.
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I found some insulation called thermo guard at a friends shop, not sure how it will do ...heat rated to 2000 degrees but no mention of being subjected to the environment as on underside of closet panel over motor. Guess I will see what else is out there, as hvac type insulation and durability. Thanks for all the feedback once again. This site sure has a great group of knowledgeable gents and ladies.
Lamonte, I found some insulation hanging in my engine compartment a day or so ago and remembered this post. What did you end up using on yours and how did it work out? Thanks in advance.
Jerry
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Hi Jerry,
I went with the thermoguard. I bought some high temp adhesive to install it with and then placed some large washers and screws to help prevent it from falling if the adhesive fails. So far so good but its only been2 months so far. I bought it on Amazon. It comes in rolls.
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Hi Jerry,
I went with the thermoguard. I bought some high temp adhesive to install it with and then placed some large washers and screws to help prevent it from falling if the adhesive fails. So far so good but its only been2 months so far. I bought it on Amazon. It comes in rolls.
Thank you!
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West Marine has some very good engine insulation.
Jim