Recent Posts

1

Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead

« Last post by Dennis Clevenger on Today at 02:40:06 AM »

Thanks Eric, we’re traveling tomorrow, so I’ll test your suggestion in a day or so.  Will let you know results.

Thanks!

Dennis

2

Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead

« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 02:38:50 AM »

Dennis,
In addition to Eric's advice, (assuming the dash meter connections are held in place with threaded nuts) be sure to check the tightness of each nut. I had a similar problem on my 01 and found most of the nuts were not tight, causing intermittent connections.
Steve

3

Technical Support / Re: 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead

« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 02:08:23 AM »

Dennis
Each of the gauges in the dash are feed 12+volts to the I terminal on each gauge this power is daisy chain from one gauge to the next.
Each gauge also has a ground connection on the G terminal on each gauge daisy chained from one to the next.

With the dash out check between the I terminal and the g terminal with a volt meter and the ignition turned on it should read battery voltage if you have a 12 volt reading the voltmeter should read 12 volts
First using a volt meter to read the voltage between the ground buss bar and the ignition solenoid with the ignition turned on check the voltage on both sides of the solenoid ( large studs) your are looking for a volt drop across the solenoid if there is more than a volt difference from one side to the other the solenoid is bad .next take a volt reading at both sides of the circuit breaker for the gauges if they aren't the same as at the solenoid the breaker is bad.
If the breaker is cycling on and off you may have a short circuit in the gauge feed circuit causing the breaker to cycle ( shorted wire or gauge)
If no 12 volt reading between  the I and g terminal on the gauges start by running a jumper with directly from the ground buss bar in the electrical bay to the G terminal and do your test again.to verify weather it's a ground problem or supply problem if you still have no 12 volt reading move your jumper wire to the I terminal and connect the other end to the ignition side of the ignition solenoid in the electrical bay.to verify the gauges read correctly


Sorry for the long winded instruction I hope it helps you determine where to look for your fault
Eric

4

Technical Support / Re: air up suspension from air compressor

« Last post by Eric Maclean on Today at 12:51:14 AM »

Dan
Any good truck parts supply store should be able to supply that hose but you'll have to take the old one with you as they will need to know the fitting sizes and length.

5

Technical Support / 1998 Patriot dash gauges dead

« Last post by Dennis Clevenger on Today at 12:38:54 AM »

Yesterday about 50 miles from our destination I saw that the voltage gauge was at zero.  I immediately freaked and shut off the lights and fans, thinking the alternator may have taken a dump.  Then it came back up to 12v and shortly after went back down.  A little bit after that I noticed the engine and trans coolant levels appeared lower than usual.  Well, they were static, not moving, as I normally watch the coolant temp closely.  So a few miles down the road I’m watching the Magnum ID.  It showed voltage at 13 volts, engine at 187 degrees and trans around 220.  Cool, so I can relax, it’s just the analog gauges are hinky.  Today checked breaker for instruments in elect. bay.  Checked ground continuity from all gauges to the ground bar under the dash.  RVDiagnostics guy guided me through measuring ohms from signal wire (each gauge) to ground.  All checked out.  Disconnected 3 big black bundle connectors in elect bay and reconnected, no change.  Also found a large grey round connector under front left fender, opened and closed that, no change.  Looked under bed to inspect any bundled connectors.  Nothing but bundle of wires leading forward.  Looked under engine on passenger side, saw no connectors from there.  Sooooo…, anyone have any ideas of where/what to look for?  Thanks in advance!

6

Technical Support / Re: air up suspension from air compressor

« Last post by Dan Johnson on April 24, 2024, 11:44:41 PM »

Eric
If I need a new braided line, where can I find one?
Dan

7

Technical Support / Re: Hydraulic pump leak

« Last post by Don Forsyth on April 24, 2024, 02:25:59 PM »

Frank, thank you for the link. That really turned on a light. That makes perfect since now, that coupling would have a flared fitting at the supply line. Apparently the end with the straight tread, threads into the housing and the nut acts like a lock nut but with the O ring sealing it.

Eric, thanks for your input. That's a good idea, I will look along the supply line for a shut off. But I got a feeling there isn't going to be one. Last thing I want is 10 gallons of fluid on the ground.

I had to replace the fluid about two years ago. I had it in the shop to replace the engine compressor. It got really cold here in Denver and when they started it to put in the shop it blew out the hydraulic cooler. Unexpected repair. If I remember correctly the fluid was about $300. I found a new radiator because they could not repair the old one. That was over a$1000. Again, thank you for your help. I will let you know how it turns out.

8

Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.

« Last post by Eric Maclean on April 24, 2024, 01:36:51 PM »

Sounds like your well on your way.
I found a good gym mat to be a god send for the knees and back when working under the coach
Keep in touch
And good luck

9

Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.

« Last post by Eric Wallace on April 24, 2024, 03:02:45 AM »

Thanks, Carl and Eric,
On further, and dirtier, inspection today I discovered a couple of things. 
There is a long steel line on each side of the coach leading from the ABS valve back to each rear wheel.
It turns out only one side has a tee in it, not both as I mistakenly said yesterday.
The tee on the passenger side turns down to the RR wheel while the other branch goes to the back of the coach into a proportional valve tied into the coach air system.  We bought the coach barely used over twenty years ago and I had forgotten that early on  I had installed an MG Brake Systems braking system for a prior toad.  In prior times my memory would not have let me down as it does more and more these days.
Yes, I have a Meritor/Wabco ABS system very similar to the attachment you added, Eric. 
After removing the air conditioner condenser between the rails right in front of the fuel tank it looks like I may have just enough working room to install new steel lines from that valve to each of the wheels. 
It's an unpleasant job but the thought of a well working brake system is providing incentive.  We love our coach, but the poor braking has been a weak link in our enjoyment of the coach for a long time.

10

Technical Support / Re: replacing brake lines on a 1998 Beaver Patriot Savannah.

« Last post by Eric Maclean on April 24, 2024, 02:19:51 AM »

Ok Eric
It appears your coach has an ABS system on it in which case each wheel will have an individual brake line which will run from the caliper to an integrated ABS
Control valve .
If you've found the ABS control valve it should have 4 brake lines running out one for each wheel end there should also be a tone ring and wheel speed sensor on each wheel
I'm not sure which system Beaver used on the Magnum chassis but I assume it is a meritor wabco system like the one in the link below.

https://graphicvillage.org/meritor/MM0677.pdf


Hope this helps
Eric