BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: James Morse on April 23, 2018, 06:04:56 PM
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I have been working on our water system and went to put water in tank and turned on the auto fill switch at the water compartment bay nothing happened? The fresh water supply to the motor home was on but the tank would not fill after turning on the switch. A couple of weeks ago it worked fine. I checked the switch in the bay and there is power to the switch and when you turn it on the other leg of the switch is hot. I am assuming it must be the valve assembly. Does anybody know where I should be looking for this valve?
Thanks, Jim
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Not sure about the location we never used this to fill our tank, I found it much faster on the 06 PT to fill via the gravity fill/over flow where we had a 1.5" fill port, Much Much faster.
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This diagram may help you locate the valve. It looks like it is in the wet bay near the water pump.
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James, the fill valve is a ASCO Red Hat valve. On my Marquis the PN is 8210G094 12 volt DC. It can be ordered from ZORO. There product number is G1483693. Check the PN on your valve, not sure if it is the same. It will be on the face of valve. Hope this helps.
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Thanks Guys! The depicted valve is what I have been looking at; I will check the solenoid and see if it is functioning. Thanks for the quick response.
Jim
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James, The complete valve https://www.zoro.com/asco-solenoid-valve-brass-nc-air-inert-gas-8210g094/i/G1483693/ is cheaper than the rebuild kit https://www.zoro.com/asco-solenoid-valve-rebuild-kit-302372/i/G2335733/ I think you will be better off replacing new, complete valve. Hope this helps.
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James,
If you are going to replace your red hat valve, be sure to get one that is 12V, and has at least a 65 PSI or higher pressure differential like this one.
https://www.zoro.com/asco-solenoid-valve-brass-nc-air-inert-gas-8210g002/i/G0446747/
The one that Frank listed only has a 40 PSI pressure differential rating, so it might no give you the service that you are looking for.
Gerald
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Gerald, thanks for the heads up on the 100 PSI valve. I have been having trouble with water leaking past valve into overflow tube. The higher PSI rating on the valve you mentioned should take care of this problem!! Thanks again, Frank.
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Just installed my new Red Hat valve, but am a little confused about the wiring.
The valve comes with three wires. Two are red and one is green with a yellow stripe. This is the same for the old valve. The literature shows that the green/yellow stripe wire is a ground, but my old valve is wired with one of the red wires connected to the ground wire and then grounded. The remaining red wire appears to run back to the switch.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this valve? Can’t find anything on line.
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Is your power for this valve 120VAC or 12VDC? From what I can find about the valve, the solenoid with two red wires and a green/yellow is 120VAC, and for 12VDC it would have a red, black, and green wire.
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Can’t think of why a red wire and ground would be connected...
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My valve is a 12 volt. Both the old one and the new one have two red and a green/yellow.
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Bob,
I was so curious about the three wire (12VDC) solenoid, I contacted tech support for ASCO.
This is their reply:
Hi Mike,
We do not have a published wiring diagram, however below is the wiring instruction:
RedHat II coils have 3 wires - 2 wires of the same color (i.e., red or yellow) and 1 wire green with a yellow stripe which is an external ground wire. Since ASCO coils are not polarity sensitive, connect the 2 wires of the same color to the positive and negative power supply, the green/yellow would be the enclosure ground.
So one "red" to positive, and the other "red" to negative. Then the "green-yellow" to negative (ground).
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Thanks Mike. Wired it as suggested, and it works. Still seems weird to connect one of the red wires to the ground wire. Problem turned out to be a bad wire between the switch and the Red Hat.
Other problem remains: I know a lot about electricity, but don’t understand much of what I know....
On to the next problem....(sigh).
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Well gentlemen, I had to take a pause to work on some other issues but took the time to check for power at the Red Hat Solenoid and found I have no power there? There is an additional fill switch in the kitchen on the face of the cabinet right below the sink. I tried to check for power there but couldn't get a good ground. I don't understand how those switches are wired to run the same valve? I guess I should run a jumper wire from the switch to solenoid and see if it operates.
Our Beaver is new to us but I don't believe we have an additional option to fill the tank?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Jim
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I have not looked into the electrical side of the Fill valve - but I found this drawing which shows the Fill Valve connection/plug as it relates to the Aladdin system. So I'm assuming the Fill valve switches (Kitchen and Wet bay) are connected to the Fill Valve (Red Hat) through the Aladdin.
See figure 12 on page 2.
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James - We have the same coach, and ours also has the two Fresh Tank Fill switches - one in the Wet Bay and one under the countertop in the galley. Our galley switch is inoperable, always has been since we purchased the coach. I don't know why it's inoperable, but I suspect it's easy to forget it's on when filling the tank when inside the coach. Several times I have started the tank filling and got to doing something else, then, fortunately, hear water overflowing the tank. Our switch in the galley is wired up but just doesn't make the Red Hat solenoid open and close.
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Mike, thanks for looking into this as I am about to do it too.
I also wonder if the green w/yellow wire goes to enclosure ground on a commercial application?
Bob
It has been several years since the only other time I replaced a Redhat. I believe the one red goes to hot and the other to ground on a 12V system. Both reds go to hot on a 24 volt set up.
I dont suggest anyone taking this as fact without further verification but that is my recollection.
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The Intellitec Latching switch is used for controlling the Water Pump from multiple switch locations. Could there be a similar "latching switch" for the Fresh Water Fill?
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Mike, we have often wished we had a fill switch inside also. To my knowlege the only one we have is in the wet bay. I do know that the Aladdin indicates when the Auto Fill is left on so there could be something there.
I am not sure what is meant by Latching Switch but I am unaware of any such!
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My coach has a Fill switch in the wet bay and one under the Kitchen counter next to Water pump and AquaHot switches. I don't know how the Fill switch is wired to the Red Hat valve.
The Water pump does use a latching relay, so any of the pump on/off switches can operate it (I have three WP switches in the coach and one in the wet bay).
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James,
If you are going to replace your red hat valve, be sure to get one that is 12V, and has at least a 65 PSI or higher pressure differential like this one.
https://www.zoro.com/asco-solenoid-valve-brass-nc-air-inert-gas-8210g002/i/G0446747/
The one that Frank listed only has a 40 PSI pressure differential rating, so it might no give you the service that you are looking for.
Gerald
How do you know which one to get? The specs only says a differential pressure of 5 psi on the one you listed.
I have a 93 Grand Marquis and my soleniod went.
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Walt
I prefer to just replace with new but it may also be possible to install a rebuild kit in the existing one. The detail plate would list the rebuild kit number from the manufacturer.
I bought a new one off Ebay and it was supposed to be 12V but was actually 110. I used the new one to rebuild the old.
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Thanks Keith :)
Got the old one pulled out, what a pain, big guy like me in a small opening under the sink. The input connection was not within the opening under the cover.
My valve has no part # on it, just the solenoid, so I'll just trust it's the same one a Gerald pointed to.