Recent Posts

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     Hi Rich,
I did it on my C-12. It is an easy DIY project. After you remove the idler pulley, remove the internal snap ring. Use a 1/2" drive socket that fits the opening and drive the old bearings out. Mic out the diameter and hole size and order from a bearing supply house online. BTW, carry a spare serpentine belt in the event you have a failure. Local parts house will not stock one. Hope this helps, Fred
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Technical Support / Re: coach frame cracked
« Last post by Joel Ashley on Today at 12:57:55 AM »
There are others here with more expertise than me on frame dynamics, and they will likely offer input.  But if it were me I would try to get some good photos of the crack with clear perspective on its location, and then call Henderson's Line Up in Grants Pass, Oregon.  It may be that you'll have to have it trucked to them or another capable shop, but chassis technicians don't come much more knowledgeable than Henderson's.
tel:(541)326-4033

Joel
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Technical Support / Re: coach frame cracked
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on Today at 12:48:28 AM »
Jeri,
Did you check with Specialty Iron Works in Great Falls? They did some frame work on our toad back in 2015 and seemed very capable and honest.
Steve
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Technical Support / coach frame cracked
« Last post by Jeri Browne on October 09, 2024, 11:58:25 PM »
We were having our 1999 Beaver Patriot coach serviced and asked for help identifying a knocking sound at the back roughly between the bathroom and bedroom.  The service tech looked underneath and found the frame cracked in the relative position of where the cross piece bolts to the frame rail. 
they did not want to attempt to fix it.  They had no referral for us.
We went to a welding company as we have been unable to find a frame shop in Montana.
The welding company said they saw the crack and it was a major project to repair requiring the engine to be removed before the work could be done.  He felt it was a poor design in the first place.  He also felt the cost would be greater than the
coach 's value.  He also declined to do the work.
Both places felt it was unsafe to drive.

Help!  What other possibilities might we have?  Who should we be asking for help?  Has anyone else experienced a cracked frame?  Where do we find a frame shop?   Your thoughts and experiences please.
Thank You
Jeri and Corb Browne
Great Falls, Montana
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Has anyone done this repair, either the whole part, or pressed out the bearings and pressed in new ones?
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Technical Support / Re: Dim headlight mod
« Last post by Richard Good on October 09, 2024, 08:12:11 PM »
I did my Ticonderoga a couple of years ago, and yes it works. pretty simple if you follow the instructions. I have since upgraded to LED's.
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Technical Support / Re: Black tank leak while using Santi flush
« Last post by Duane Kunze on October 09, 2024, 08:07:21 PM »
Just to update and close out this post, I changed out the valve, all is good, no more leak. Thanks for the help, Fred and Joel.
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Technical Support / Re: Dim headlight mod
« Last post by Fred Brooks on October 09, 2024, 04:56:54 PM »
 It will work, just use CB-3 as the source instead of CB-25. When done you will have 14 volts going to the headlights when driving. Fred
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Technical Support / Dim headlight mod
« Last post by Dennis Clevenger on October 09, 2024, 04:18:12 PM »
I just got ready to do Roy Muellers headlight mod on our 98 Patriot Tico.  First thing to do is the test to see if the mod will work.  He calls for locating CB-25 on the Ignition circuit breaker.  That is NOT “Headlights” on mine.  The “Headlights” are located to the left on the Battery bar, 3rd connection down.  See attached pics.  So am I still able to do something to make these lights brighter?

BTW, I did polish the lenses this morning with Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish so they may be a “little” brighter.  Any ideas on the Mueller Mod?

Dennis
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Technical Support / Air side of radiator blockage causing engine overheating
« Last post by Richard Good on October 09, 2024, 06:22:43 AM »
I may have posted about this before, but here goes again. My Beaver is a rear radiator setup. The coolant radiator sits directly behind the intercooler and there is no access to the gap between them. I have read many posts about how this gap gets plugged up leading to expensive radiator removal and cleaning. Over several years my engine temps started to creep up when under heavier load. I used degreaser and simple green to clean the engine side of the intercooler with little understanding it was having no impact on the coolant radiator behind it. I replaced the thermostats in case they were the culprits with no difference. 2 years ago after reading about an expensive radiator cleaning bill I hit on the idea of using a cable tie and laboriously pushing it through each opening of the radiator. On realising how many of the tube passages through the radiator were blocked, I used a bottle of Awesome Orange and a garden hose from the back of the coach to try and blow through from the back. This worked, and my next trip through the West Virginia mountains resulted in mostly normal temperatures. As the air flow through both the intercooler and radiator is increased, this has also led to lower intercooler air temperatures. There are several small drain holes in the plate at the base of the radiator and intercooler which I have had to clear of debris which has fallen down inside. Since then I randomly check the passages from both the intercooler and the rear of the radiator side using this method. I clean both using a hose and a citrus based degreaser and clean out the drain holes at the bottom. When moving West this spring, we drove across Interstate 90 and even climbing over the continental divide, passing all the trucks( admittedly I was down to 45 to 50 mph) my coolant temperature climbed to about 215 degrees with prolonged climbing, but that was it. I just recently cleaned both sides again and found a few more plugged tubes, but basically this is no longer an issue and all it took was some Awesome Orange from Dollar Tree, a garden hose with a nozzle attachment and an electric cable tie.
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