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Technical Support / Re: Dash AC Max Fan kills it
« Last post by Steve Huber on September 11, 2026, 02:08:35 PM »
It sounds like your fan resistor may be overheating and blowing the fuse. If so, it should do it on non-AC setting also. I had to replace mine on our 2000 Marquis. If memory holds, it was located in the front firewall on the drivers side and was not too tough to get to. It's a Ford part. The Acme part # is D32H-19A706-AB.
Steve
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Technical Support / Dash AC Max Fan kills it
« Last post by William Mays on September 11, 2026, 01:12:29 AM »
I have a 2001 Beaver Patriot Thunder. Working on the AC, replaced the compressor, the pressure switch, cleaned 20 years of grime of the condenser fan. It is is working great, the thing that is not, I can turn the fan to max, which I have read is good as it closes the vent to recirculate. However after about 10 minutes or so the fan dies, and the fuse blows. I have to shutdown the rig, wait about 30 minutes, then when I restart, it works again. So I am limited to keeping the fan one notch below max. Any ideas on what might be happening? How difficult is it to work on the dash parts? It looks impossible on how to get to reach it from underneath, my arms aren't that long. Thanks for any help
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Ante Peros on September 01, 2026, 06:53:39 PM »
Holy smokes guys - you are amazing!!!! We have been dealing with some grandbaby-sitting and had to leave the beast for a bit. We have discussed this whole thing over and over with the various mechanics and your discussion has helped immensly!!!! The cut-off switches are now labeled and we feel so much more confident about which ones are which. It seems logical now. The house batteries were not working when we first started this as the tech had put in new battery cut off switches in the battery compartment and had not connected something - the house battery switch did not "click" - - but also had managed to touch something and drain the batteries. They must have fixed the install and charged the batteries and we are back in business. A whole different switch - the one on the engine for a mechanic to start the engine from the back - has worn a lot and has been slipping which creates an engine comm failure. The new switch has been ordered. I think we are following through on some of these recurring problems and are learning along the way. Better to learn at home and not on the road!!!! Thank You so much!!!!  Ante and Ginny
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Steve Huber on August 29, 2026, 02:51:15 PM »
Ante,
I stand corrected. Joel was correct. The 3 battery setup supplies the needed CCA (~2850) which is more than the 2 battery setup speced for the CAT engine (1900-2200). You should be ok with this setup but may want to change back to the 2 battery configuration at the next battery change. Not clear why someone used the Cummins engine hookup for the CAT, but it works.
Sorry for introducing confusion into the discussion.
If I read your 2nd post correctly you said you had no electricity the first day of setup even when plugged in. Is this plugged in to shore power? If so it could be due to a faulty transfer switch. Does the inverter indicate low battery when not working?
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Scott Shearer on August 28, 2026, 11:54:39 PM »
Ante,

Unless someone has reconfigured your battery setup, Frank is 100% correct.

Joel gave you a great road map to prove the usage of each battery bank. However, you’ll have a very hard time tracing the cabling as you cannot easily see the backside of the disconnect switches.

It sounds like you are still having issues related to storing your coach. There is a section in your post of April 22, 2026, that discusses some of the gotchas when storing the later model Patriots and Marquis. The only way that you can prevent battery draw is to disconnect them.

-Scott
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Frank Bergamo on August 28, 2026, 11:14:14 PM »
The top cutoff switch is for the house batteries. The lower switch is for the chassis batteries. As I stated above, the top trays are the house batteries, the 4 AGM’s. The lower right compartment are the chassis batteries.
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Joel Ashley on August 28, 2026, 10:44:49 PM »
I reckon I’d first try tracing the cables to see where they go, but it sounds like you may not be able to tell which Main Switch (“cutoff”) is which?  On ours the chassis switch is rearmost on the panel, intimating the engine’s position on the coach, but that might not be an assured design on any one coach configuration.  And tracing wires with that many batteries involved may be an intimidating task. 

An option would be to first turn off both cutoff switches, then disconnect the ground cable(s) coming into one of the two battery types;  I’d guess the 1131’s would be handiest since they are all together on one shelf and you should be able to see one good sized cable entering that shelf and attached to the negative post of one of the three.  Commonly, the positive cables will have red tape or coloring on their ends, and negative cable ends are just unmarked/untaped black.  With one (or more) black umbilical removed between battery set and coach and fastened securely well away from any battery post, turn the cutoffs back on.  Try starting the coach.  Obviously if it starts, and you know for certain that the threesome have no large ground wires coming into them, then Steve is correct and the 4 AGM’s must then be chassis set.  They do, after all, rate a good deal of cranking amps.  Approach this task with caution;  if you don’t feel comfortable handling battery cables that can spark, then don’t try it.  Ask a certified electrical tech.

Without actually seeing the setup, I’m shooting in the dark here.  But any of your mechanics could’ve done the same thing, likely much easier than you as a relatively inexperienced coach battery inquirer.  If you approach the cable disconnect experiment, please use care that a wrench or other tool used on the negative cable(s) doesn’t inadvertently at the same time hit a positive post or bare cable.  You don’t need sparks in your face.

Joel
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Steve Huber on August 28, 2026, 10:38:41 PM »
Ante,
Based on the CCA the AGMs are your chassis batteries. I can't speak for what the battery installer did re the house batteries but the the 3 of them supply the needed amp hours. But it's your coach so...
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Frank Bergamo on August 28, 2026, 06:05:13 PM »
On my 07’ Marquis, the top two trays are the house batteries. The lower right compartment are the chassis/start batteries. I would think yours would be the same.
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Technical Support / Re: 2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder Battery Configuration
« Last post by Ante Peros on August 28, 2026, 04:04:14 PM »
We are looking at page 23 in the wiring diagram - thank you Steve - but if we look at the configurations listed there are no combination of 3 batteries listed for the house (domestic) batteries.....So going by that we are thinking:
 the 3 smaller batteries for ISX engines must be for the chassis
and the AGM's are for the house.
What the heck is an ISX engine? rats - I just googled it and that is a Cummins engine. We have a cat.
I wonder if there is a way to really figure this out when we use the 2 battery cutoff switches in the battery compartment when we store her....one at a time and try to figure out what power goes off?
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